First post from a new owner. I bought a 2000 model D6R the otherday and got it home yesterday. I have a manual ordered but hasn't shown up yet but was wondering what fluids it takes ? I have Cenex Quicklift HTB on hand here for my tractors and know that CNH Hy-tran meets Cat TO-2 specs and I run that in a Twin-Disc 12 speeds I have in a couple of my 4wd tractors. I just don't know what this 6 calls for right now Hyd, Trans, finals and whatever else. Is the trans fluid checked cold or warm? Running or not? Hopefully I can get a pic attached. Thanks.
Welcome to HEF KS8780. Will definitely help to include your serial number . Cheers
Yes it would. 5LN2787
I’m sure one of the Cat gurus will chime in shortly.
And is if by magic ......... Refill Capacities Fluids (for your location) Engine - SAE 15W/40 a minimum of API CG-4 spec Power Train - SAE30 TO-4 Hydraulic - SAE10W hydraulic, or 10W TO-4. Makes no difference. Final Drives - SAE50 TO-4 Recoil Spring Compartment & Pivot Shaft - SAE50 TO-4 TO-2 was superceded by TO-4 about 20 years ago......... Transmission oil level is checked with oil at operating temperature, transmission in neutral, & engine idling. Were you aware that you can download a genuine copy of the Operation & Maintenance Manual in pdf format from the internet for around $50..?
Just what I needed. Thanks
If your manual was a paper one I hope you didn't pay more than $57 for it even if it was new. See below.
Nope....$49.99 Good news is I was able to run the dozer for 4 or 5 hours today pushing out a pond and really couldn't find any problems with the machine. I did get into some muddy stuff and learned my lesson of staying out of the mud. Didn't get stuck but spent alot of time cleaning the undercarriage out when I got done
One thing I noticed. The blade tilt doesn't seem to be using the full range of motion. It will tilt the left end down a bit bit will not tilt the right end down much at all. I swear it worked correctly when I inspected the machine earlier. Hyd. cylinders , one on each corner, only stroke a couple inches at most. They look like they should move more but I am not sure what the stroke length should be. I haven't looked but by the way the tilt valve feels it is all mechanical linkage (maybe it is pilot control idk) and it has full range of motion on the lever. Any ideas? Waiting on a service manual and thought I would ask here. 5LN2787
Tilt Cylinders are listed as 4" stroke so not much movement.
I'm far from an expert on anything to do with dozer but I know one we had the amount the tilt moved was related to the angle of the blade. Been too long since I touched it but do recall something along those lines were I thought there was a problem but then when I changed the angle of the blade found that it made a major deference!
Attached is a little information from SIS on this D6R.
Thanks. I had found that build info in SIS. Good info to have. I had the machine running yesterday and the blade tilt seemed to work correctly. It tilted much farther than it did when I ran it several hours the other day. Not sure what is going on but will see how it does when I get it back to work.
Had'nt got a rock stuck somewhere in the linkage that it shouldn't be by some chance..?
I found this old decal that came with my R the other day
Stick seemed to have full range of motion. The blade would tilt to a point and then just stop. Would tilt further left than right but still not as much as it should. Maybe I have a cylinder bypassing when the oil warms up?
Am I right in thinking that you have a manual-angling blade with dual pitch and tilt cylinders? Electric switch on the blade control handle?
Yes, manual angle. Yes, dual pitch/tilt and NO electric pitch/tilt. Control handle left and right for pitch/tilt and forward and back for blade lift
Could you post a photo of each side of the blade ? I for one am confused. Manual angle ? I haven't seen one of those since I worked on a pipeline 40 odd years ago. I thought you were asking about the tilt. There usually one cylinder (RH side)on the draft arm for tilting the blade and a big threaded rod on the opposite side. Tilt is controlled by pushing the control lever sideways. Push to the right and the RH corner of the blade goes down. Changing the length of the big threaded rod will change the Pitch of the blade. It also drastically changes the amount of tilt you will have. I rarely needed to change the tilt. Only in certain situations when cutting finish grade and the the blade would dive in uncontrollably. Just like Ken described.
I thought so. That's quite a rare bird you have there, but I'm a little surprised there's no switch on the handle. That would mean you don't have pitch control, only tilt. So when you move the handle to tilt, one cylinder goes in and the other one goes out, correct? In fact what you have is a gen-u-ine Cat custom product. Air suspension seat as well?
The blade arrangement is a definite Custom Product. Even has its own Custom Shop Parts Manual ...........
Yes. One cylinder on each end of blade. One cylinder goes out and the other in. I call it tilt. I can see now that pitch would be leaning the top of the blade forward and back. Air ride seat also.
I am quite curious as to why anyone would go to the expense to have that blade tilt like that. It would be awesome for cutting ditches. Must have been very pricey. It would be handy to have a valve that would enable both cylinders to move in and out in unison for an easy way to tilt the blade. I would have changed the tilt way more often than I did because the threaded rod on the left rarely was greased and that mad it a chore to turn it.
A valve to make both cylinders operate in the same direction in order to adjust the pitch was another optional fitment, hence my question about an electrical switch on the control lever. I was surprised that someone would go to the expense of buying a special blade like that and not ordering the variable pitch option. So back to the original problem. Are one or both tilt cylinders not reaching their full stroke?
When I inspected the machine before purchase they seemed to have full stroke. After running it for a few hours the other day. The blade would tilt left but not full stroke and would hardly tilt right past center. I started the machine 2 days ago and blade would tilt both right and left correctly. Cylinders appeared to be using the full stroke at this time. I have not been able to run machine and get it up to temp to see if it screws up again.
As Cmark has said you would almost need that switch to run one cylinder at a time to get them at midstroke with the blade level. Sounds like you may have bad piston seals on one cylinder.
The tilt cylinder stroke is 4”. Time to get the tape measure out I think.
A bit of an update but I still haven't figured out what's going on. The last time I used dozer I descovered that the blade will tilt correctly when first started. When it quits tilting I can lower blade and raise front of tractor off the ground a little and activate the blade tilt circuit and it will work as it should and muscle the tractor around a bit. I can then raise blade back up and blade will tilt correctly back and forth for several times but seems to loose cylinder stroke slowly until it hardly tilts at all again. When the cylinders come to the end of the stroke, either full stroke or partial when it is not working right, I can here the hydraulics laboring as I would expect. So why does pressuring the blade down cause the tilt to start working correctly ?
If it is a closed centre hydraulic system operating another circuit operating might make the pump start pumping oil.
Sounds like you may have a problem in the resolver network. If you steer the machine or lift the blade, does the tilt start working?
My bet is with Cmark
I will try it with another function operating when I get back to it.
No.....the only way it starts working is if I power down the blade lift and then activate the tilt with it powered down. Raise blade and tilt will work full stroke a few times and then start losing stroke until it barely tilts at all. I looked at the resolver network in the service manual and I have never seen anything quite like that. Appears to be a bunch of check valve type things kinda mounted in series. I'm still not sure how it all works for now.
The resolver network is nothing more than a bunch of shuttle valves mounted in series to direct oil to the system that requires it. A priority flow network if you will. Either there will be some damaged seals or one of the balls in those shuttle valves will be stuck. I'd go for the O-Rings & backup rings as most likely, but if a ball is sticking the complete valve will have to be replaced because neither the ball or the valve body are sold separately. There will be a shuttle valve in each section of the hydraulic control valve for the dozer functions and they are all identical. See attachment. EDIT: This is what it looks like when you get it out.
What about the steering?
I don't think steering made a difference but cannot say for sure. Not positive I tried it while steering.
Trying tilt while steering had no effect.
Is there a possibility there is a problem with the blade and not the cylinder function ? An example would be the the blade binding up. Or a malfunction causing the cylinders rods to be going the same direction intermediately ? I would be tempted to unhook one of them from the blade and see what happens when tilting it with just one cylinder. You could observe the rod travel of the unhooked cylinder at the same time.
That is my next plan
Cmark I have this same arrangement on my d6r lgp I was wondering if you would know the part numbers or "kit" I could get to make my machine have the ability to have power tilt as well as pitch control?
A machine Serial Number might help to track down the information you're looking for.
Am I wrong in saying he has is a C frame with twin tilt and didn't some of those have a valve on the back of blade that you would have to work or bleed manually to get the tilt cylinders to work and not fight each other after removing blade or resealing a tilt cylinder. Been to many years ago.
Bearing in mind your LGP machine is physically wider than a standard D6R, I doubt you have the same blade arrangement, but we'll see. As Nige mentions above, a serial number reveals all........