Looking for codes online, can't find. Anybody have an online source? D6Rxl AAX 1326
Dan Does this mean you got the D-6R Friday?
Yes, for better or worse, it will be to my shop next week for a go thru. It has a few codes. Hope it's not a junk pile, always a gamble at RB
Good luck with it. It did not look bad from the pictures. I sure like my D-6R, but it is getting run down a bit. It has over 14,000 hrs on it, and the last few years it has seen more rock and concrete demo than any 6 ever should. It runs like a trooper though. I have had some exhaust problems, and when we were in a lot of sand it ate the fan drive pulleys up 2 times. The radiator is leaking now, and has been for a while. It gets stop leak pretty regular as a band aid. I would not want anyone I know to buy mine when I am done, but it has been a really good unit.
The rails are squeaky must be a dry turn, probably put rails and segments, the rest of the uc is good. A little paint touch up and fluid change hopefully nothing major. I was there twice once to preview and then for the sale, dozer is tight and still has shims, seems to run, turn and shift good as best as I could tell. The only thing I could find that doesn't work is the front windshield wiper. Time will tell
I dont think youll find codes on line but if you like i can tell you what they are
That would be great. 030 96.03, 113 70.02, 113 177.03, 113 177.04, 113 269.04, 113 673.02 end
030 96 03 is fuel level sensor - voltage above normal 113 70 02 is parking brake switch eratic data 113 177 04 trans oil temp sensor voltage below normal 117 03 is trans temp sensor above normal 113 269 04 is sensor supply below normal 673 02 is transmission sensor # 2 - data eratic
Thank you, doesn't sound to bad, does that mean these sensors need to be replaced?
Dan, there will be a specific diagnostic procedure for each Fault Code. PM me an e-mail address and I'll send them to you.
I wouldnt waste your time this are comom codes seen in D6r if your having an issue with on of these then id look into troublshooting .
Dan Sounds to me like a potential wiring problem. I would check the wire loom closely for any signs of abrasion that could indicate a short. There may be one large one, or several small ones. I have had similar problems with my D-8T, and the main culprit was a wire loom that rubbed a fuel hose. That is the likely cause for erratic data and low voltage to a sensor, IMHO. Good luck finding it, and while looking, be sure to restrain any places in the harnesses that look like a future problem. Jerry
Whos idea was it to make dozers so electronic anyway?? Used to have only a few wires now they're all wires & sensors. Things used to be so simple
Tell me about it. Now when we have a problem, like a high temp alarm, we don't know if the machine is really hot, or if a wire got crossed and it just thinks it is. :Banghead:Banghead
Yeah, what was wrong with Stewart Warner mechanical guages? Couple pics of the D6
I know voltage above normal usually means the sensor is bad. The trans oil temp sensor is on the pickup tube going into the powertrain pump.
Are these active codes or logged ones. If they are active you will usually have a red light or the display with show servcd or something like that. I find there are logged codes and events on every Cat I look at now days. Good Luck!
If they are active Diagnostic Codes then the "SERV CODE" light on the top RH corner of the Monitor Panel will be illuminated. If it's not then they are logged codes and can be cleared with a click box.
The lower left 2 warning lights blink. The one with the brake shoes and ! I assume is because of the brake switch, the one with the gear and ! must be the oil temp sensor. Should the SERV CODE go away when we fix it or is it always there?
If all the active Service Codes are fixed then the "SERV CODE" light will go out. Note you have to fix them all not just an odd one or 2. As the condition causing each code is corrected the code goes from being "Active" to being "logged". All logges codes can be cleared using what's colloquially referred to as a "click box", more correctly known as the 4C-8195 CMS Service Tool. You can build one of these yourself. It only needs three switches, a few pieces of cable, and a male connector that hooks into an existing female connector in the cab. Check your e-mail, I've sent you a copy of how to build one. It is an extremely useful tool to have because you can also use it to calibrate your machine (if necessary) as well as work with Fault Codes. We work on the principle that every time any machine is PM'd any existing codes are cleared (or fixed and then cleared whichever is the case) so that when the machine comes to the next PM we know that anything appearing at that time relates to the operating time since the last PM and don't go back a couple of years or more.
Any chance you can send me the plans for the "click box"? Or post it on the forum? Would really appreciate it. Thanks.
Unfortunately the JPEG image is too big to upload here and if I try to re-size it in order to upload it it loses so much definition becomes unreadable - it's not the best quality image to start with TBH. Not much use to you like that. PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you all the details.
OK, I've managed to find another couple of illustrations. First a photo of what the tool looks like to give an idea. As you can see the main connector cable has 2 branches, each one with a Deutsch connector on it - a 4-pin male & a 12-pin male. That cable plugs into the top of the box using the silver plug in the photo. The idea is so that you can use various cables depending on the type of equipment you are working on and what use you have for the tool. For diagnostic purposes and clearing Fault Codes that's irrelevant. All that's needed is the principal cable, therefore the connector on the top of the box can be done away with and you can hard-wire everything. Second the wiring schematic for it. The 5-pin connector shown open in the lower centre of the diagram (Ground, Clear, Ground, Service) is the one I mentioned above. To build the tool requires a small plastic box and 3 switches. Note that they are not identical, they're all wired slightly different internally. The top switch is a single-pole "centre-off" switch. The bottom 2 switches both need to be spring-loaded so that they automatically come back to the position in which they are shown on the diagram when you release them, one is single pole, the other double pole. Apart from the switches, a few feet of 16SWG automotive wire using 3 different colours for Service, Clear, & Ground, and a couple of Deutsch connectors, and you're home free. The main connector cable is actually shown with 3 connectors on the schematic. The top one is the 12-pin Deutsch, the middle one is a 4-pin Sure-Seal (no idea what that gets used for), and the lower one is the 4-pin Deutsch. Here's the Operator Table
Thanks.
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To send a PM click on the user name of the person you want to PM and a menu appears. Click on "Private Message" in that menu and away you go.
great info
Please Nige can you specify the three switches locations i mean sw3 is single pole with center off is this switch a momentary switch also in practical which location will be (upper sw , left , write ) Also for two other switches Thanks in advance
All three switches should be spring loaded although it's not absolutely essential. You just have to return them to the neutral positioh yourself while using the tool. SW3 is the top switch. SW1 is bottom left, SW2 is bottom right.
Thanks for your help Please if I will use spring loaded switches , I see in wiring diagram its normal close switches (mean in neutral position switches contacts closed ) Is that right?
No, in the neutral position the contacts of switches 1 and 2 should be open. Switch 3 should be biased to the centre (off) position. The illustration in the diagram above is incorrect.