So I have a D6R w c9 engine. Using it last week I had the main fill cap for trans blow off and white oil come out. Shut it down and drained trans oil. Filled w new oil and change filter. Everything worked as usual. I pushed dirt for an hour…light load as I was nervous. Lost reverse. Forward worked. trans warn light flashing. Shut it down and started again and all worked again as normal. 15 min later last reverse and the forward and has the same flashing light. Codes are as follow 030 0096.03, 030 0819.02, 113 0468.08, 113 0671.02, 113 0673.02 serial AAX-01209 any Ideas? Manual indicates sensor issues…but I bet their is more to it.
Your list is 5 Codes. When you scroll through them which of the 5 are Active, or is it all of them.? Any code that is Active will light up the SERV CODE icon to the RH side of the mesaage window.
0096.03, 0671.02, 0673.02 are all active
0096.03 is for the fuel level sensor, so you can ignore that for now. The last two are the key. Those are for the transmission output speed sensors. There are two sensors and the machine will work fine with either one, BUT if both are AWOL at the same time it will not move because it has no way of measuring ground speed. See the attached. The problem is that the two sensors themselves are buried deep in the transmission and are not accessible without removing it. So if both procedures get to the point in the diagnostics where it says "replace the sensor" then the transmission will have to come out. There is an internal transmission wiring harness that feeds both of those sensors. If they both went AWOL at the same time it could well be a harness problem. Again not accessible without removing the transmission unless the problem is at the main connector located behind the cover at the rearof the machine.
This am I let engine warm for few min. It will go into reverse but not forward…same warning light for trans comes on flashing…same codes
Same troubleshooting, at least to start with. EDIT: You could also pull the suction screen on the transmission and see what material (if any) is in it. This will require draining the oil again unfortunately, because if you don’t it will all fall out when you remove the screen cover.
Nige. Thanks for the help. I’m in the field needing the dozer bad today. Let’s assume one wire is loose or one sensor bad..can I simply disconnect one sensor wire and use the other sensor? If same issue then use the other sensor and disconnect the first? I can’t run thru entire process today..
If you have both sensors faulted I’m fairly sure that you are going to have to fix one or the other before the machine will move.
But if only one sensor is bad, it should work if disconnect the bad one?…right?
I don't know if this will help you, but we had a very similar issue with one of our Cat 735s. It is pretty unlikely that both speed sensors failed at the same time, but not impossible. If the transmission in your D6R work the same way as it does in the off road trucks there is a good chance that one of the modulators has gone bad. If the sliding clutches don't engage then the torque converter does not slow down, but the output shaft will not spin. The sensors interpret this as a lost speed signal. The machine will shift into reverse because it does not need a speed signal to do so. I assume that when you shift to forward everything seems fine for a few seconds and then the light will come on, because that is what was happening for us. I am not familiar with the D6R transmission, but I will take a look at SIS and see if it is similar.
According to SIS these are the solenoid combinations for the gears in your D6R. Based on the fact that it will go into reverse I would say we can eliminate solenoids 5 and 1 as they are definitely working. Personally, I would be suspicious of solenoid 2. You could hit the solenoids with a power probe to see if you can hear them actuate, just be sure to use 12 volts and not 24.
Apologies for yet another reply, but if you have a tetragauge it looks like the solenoids on the D6R should have checking points on them. I haven't found any information yet on what the reading should be, but when shifting to forward you should see an increase in pressure at that point. If you can check the wires when shifting you should get voltage there, its a 24 volt PWM signal, so it might be a strange reading with a digital multimeter. If you have voltage and no pressure change I would change the solenoid.
If only one sensor is "bad" you shouldnt need to disconnect anything. The tractor will run perfectly fine using the signal from just one sensor. That is the reason I think you have something more serious happening because both sensors are faulting at the same time. I'm not sure that I would because if the #2 solenoid was bad it should be throwing a 0692.07 Code.
Nige, It will only throw that code if the electrical side of the solenoid is not functioning. If the magnet has gone bad, the stem is sticking or broken, or any other issue is happening on the mechanical side of the solenoid you will not get a code. As far as the control module is concerned it is functioning properly. In the absence of a tetragauge they could swap the 1 and 2 modulating solenoids, if 2 is in fact bad the machine will then shift into forwards, but not reverse.
Well the first day I lost reverse but had forward. Then the next day I had reverse but no forward. If I turn engine off and then back on the warning light turns off and I can get forward and sometimes reverse. It’s random..Seems like that would indicate wiring issue
The cavitation of the oil is where i would be looking. Is it still foaming up? Do you still have old filters? Thinking suction leak or blown pipe or oring internally or clutch has gone. Could even be stuffed pump. You will find material in strainers and filters if this is the case. Pressure test should show up low one or more circuits.
The modulation control for the clutches is not 24 volt but 5 volt PWM so little flicks of power, not all the clutches have the same pressure as some have 370 psi others 330 psi, when you drained out the oil did you remove the square plate with 4 bolts at the lower rear face, behind this is a screen that will peg up with black flakes if your transmission is smoked, there is 4 speed sensors inside the transmission as they are doubled up, there is also 1 on the top of the torque output shaft, you need to do a pressure test of your main pressure at low and high idle, to save getting you mixed up you can open the right door and go to the top of the transmission filter to plug in for this, it would be 430 psi + as this pressure is to release the brakes then is fed to the transmission to drive it.