gday fellas, new here and have a question. Have just purchased a D6R XL sn S6T00489 and have a trans filter alarm, I checked the filter and it was clean but replaced it anyway and alarm comes back on after approximately 5 minutes. Have had a basic look at wiring and can’t find much but again it was a basic look. Only had it a day so all new to me. Machine has done 8300hrs. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated! Cheers.
Did you cut it open to inspect the bottom of the pleats.? That’s usually where the particles that plug the filter are lodged. If you haven’t done it before here is a link to a video that might help. I know it’s an engine oil filter he’s cutting but the principle is the same - Filter Cut
Hello Nidge, yeah cut it and opened it up to a long sheet and washed it out into a container with some solvent just to make sure but found basically nothing. Was concerned it may have been an aftermarket filter but it was genuine and replaced it with the same. Only thing I’m wondering is that maybe it’s a 50w oil and here at the moment is certainly cold enough to warrant a 30w. Anyway I’ll go hunting a bit more tomorrow and hopefully WesTrac can send up a sensor to tr.
If it has SAE50 oil in it I think I would try running it for a while even with the alarm going just to see if it goes off when the oil gets up to the same temperature as the coolant. You can speed up this process by sitting in 3rd speed with the brakes on and run the engine at high rpm until the high TC out temp alarm goes off. At that point flick it to neutral and allow the oil to cool at medium RPM. Repeat until the trans temp is the same as the engine coolant. Report your results. TBH I wouldn’t go throwing parts at it until you have a bit more info. It could prove to be very expensive for no result. In your location the power train deffo needs SAE30 oil in it, and TBH I would run 30 in it year-round. If you do decide to change the oil make sure when you drain it to remove & clean the suction screen and the drain screen under the converter. If you don’t already have one an Operation & Maintenance Manual should be right at the top of your list. Search for SEBU8419 in the usual online marketplaces, or put it in the search box here - https://catpublications.com/
Here’s an electrical schematic that might help you. I suggest you take a good look how the plugged filter switch works and maybe go looking for a wiring issue. IIRC the ECM looks for continuity to ground via the filter switch. The problem is that if the wire is shorted to ground between the ECM and the switch then as soon as the temp gets up (plugged filter alarm is suppressed when the oil temp is below 50C) the alarm will go off even though the switch contacts are still open.
Thanks for all your info, I’ll call the dealer where it was at Monday to see what oil they put in it as it was over in QLD and I think Asia before that or so I’m lead to believe. They sent the books with it and have been having a sqiz at them today. Operates fine no lag or slippage and runs cool on converter with good power, oil looks clean to the naked eye and no unusual smell. Have a mate coming tomorrow or Monday with a bit of luck to put a service tool on it to check as well. Had Cat in Brisbane do a report for what it’s worth before I got it and all come up fine…
Just seen your reply after I posted, that looks real interesting thanks a million I’ll get reading
Hey nidge excuse my ignorance but would it be right if the sensor was unplugged and once the oil was above 50 degrees, if there was still an error it would be a short to ground in the harness between ECM and the sensor?
I need to correct what I said before. The plugged filter switch is a proximity switch with both feed and return coming from the ECM. The switch contacts should be open with the engine off so that’s the first thing that I would check. Grid D-13 on Page 8 of the schematic. The Part Number 164-7577 is right next to the switch. There is an updated Part Number but I can’t remember what it is off the top of my head.
Unplug the switch from the machine harness and if the temp is above 50C you should get no alarm if the wiring is good.
Thanks again will do it tomorrow
Wheatbelt, what is the number of the filter that you changed? Your problem sounds very similar to one that Nige helped me out with last year. Newly purchased 7H with 50w oil would sound the alarm 5 minutes after startup. The filter in the machine was an ultra high efficiency version…changed it to the advanced efficiency option which solved the alarm issue. We later swapped the oil out with 30w but have yet to try the UHE filter with the lighter oil. Might seem an odd question, but did you buy your tractor from a dealer named Andre in Darra, Qld.?
Yeah mate from Andre. I will check the numbers and get back to u. As far as the fault goes we think nidge is onto it as when it’s unplugged it’s still comes on when machine warms up so based on the wiring it’s got a short to ground somewhere witch will be just great to find I’m sure!
Andre is OK., at least in our opinion. He sells a lot of dozers and presents them immaculately, both mechanically and visually. No doubt, if the problem had of surfaced before the tractor left the yard he would have had it fixed. I just wish he would stop putting 50w in his transmissions.
I can’t get over the fact that according to the electrical schematic the alarm can be silenced by unplugging the plugged filter switch. That makes no sense to me at all and I wish someone else would take a good look at it and confirm that I’m correct in my interpretation of how it operates.
Seemed good to deal with and went a lot further through the machine than I expected so no problem my end and at the end of the day still a second hand machine so no doubt I’ll have an issue or two.
D oim a bit on it in the morning so I’ll keep u posted
Pls take a good look at the schematic and make sure it works the way I think it works.
Nige. I have a jumper wire made up to plug in on the filter bypass switch to get the light to go off so I think it needs a closed circuit to cancel the light. I think that schematic is misleading.
That’s why I said I was confused. The annotations for the schematic state “Components are shown installed on a fully operable machine with the key and engine off, transmission shifter in neutral and with parking brake set.” Ref #49 the powertrain filter pressure switch is shown on the schematic as being normally open, the inference being that the switch closing is what sets the alarm off. IIRC that switch has a small pin on the end of it that moves to close the switch contacts as the bypass spool moves away from the switch. I reckon that if the switch was off the machine the contacts should show as closed and if you press the little button inwards the switch contacts should open. @ Wheatsheaf - pls can you remove the switch from the machine and see if it works as described above.
I noted Queenslanders post about the clean up filter.I wondered that too. Do you have the correct filter in it?
Confirmation that the electrical schematic is drawn INCORRECTLY. The plugged filter switch is Normally Closed and the contacts open when the bypass spool moves. So if you remove the switch from the machine the contacts should be Open. Press the small operating rod inwards and the contacts should close. Please check that the switch operates as designed before proceeding further. EDIT: If you have the latest Part Number of filter bypass switch it is a proximity-type switch rather than being mechanically-operated. In order to open and close the switch contacts you’ll need to touch a sizeable chunk of metal to the end of the switch that the spool butts up against. Remove the metal and the contacts should open. Apologies for the confusion. EDIT Part Deux: I think I finally have it figured. Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while….. The switch contacts by design are Normally Open , however when the switch is installed and the business end of it comes into contact with the bypass spool the switch contacts will CLOSE. That explains it but the way that the schematic is drawn is still confusing….
We have a S6T6R as well, another thing to keep in mind is that they are a slightly oddball machine compared to other sixes of the same vintage. Although built in 2012 they still have manually controlled transmission, tier 2 engine etc. Great tractor though.
You blokes are spot on, wiring diag is confusing, made up a lead to bridge the circuit and problem found…crook sensor! Anyway thanks for all your help because it sure cuts down the time trying to fix it.
Excellent news. I’m glad that it was a simple fix. 391-7125 is the updated Part Number for the 164-7577 Switch.
How many hours on it? Ours is on 8300, had turbo, pump and injectors, oil and water pumps, thermostat and a host of small stuff on the tractor including track frames new track gear, pivot shaft and all the blade pivots done, so hopefully it will go for a little while.
This is the older sister! No tranny sensor here
Ours has done a bit over 6000 hrs. We were initially looking for another 6R or T until we saw this 7H that Andre had. It’s only showing 9000hrs, which is unlikely to be accurate for a 25 year old machine but, like yours, he has been right through it and it is in very good order. For the benefit of any Aussies looking for a dozer you can find Andre at Southern Tool and Equipment in Brisbane.
Looks like a nice machine. I’m down scaling from a 9L so might take a bit of getting used to but shifting will certainly be a bit easier.