I am trying to remove the engine from my D6t. I was told to remove It with the converter and pumps on it. I can seem to get it. Any suggestions?
Is it a Tier 4 engine with all the emissions fruit hanging on it.? A Serial Number would help identify what you've got. Have you tilted the hardnose forward out of the way as a start.?
It is an 08. Lay00799. We got it out today with the converter attached. It was a fist fight for sure.
We removed the hard nose and I think that is way easier than tilting it forward. The extra room was definitely worth the extra work.
I took a look at the Service Manual which stated to remove the converter separately before removing the engine. No wonder you had issues........
we generally pull the cooling package and hard nose (gives you a nice chance to go through the radiator anyway) and then it’s mechanic preference to pull with torque converter on or not and yes it’s a stone cold b**** either way. most of our guys leave the torque converter hanging from a strap wrapped around top of cab and hanging a come along on that.
I think I will put it back the way the manual says.
Dunno if you've got the R&I procedure but here it is anyway. If you need anything else out of the manual please ask.
I appreciate the info. I ordered a reman long block from cat today. How do you recommend breaking it in? Does cat have a break in oil like John Deere?
AFAIK there are no specific break-in instructions for an engine this small. (Larger ones are done on a dyno.) Question: Do you take periodic engine oil samples and have them analyzed.? If you do, then an oil/filter change plus a sample at 50 operating hours would probably be a good idea, then run normal oil/filter changes after that. Also it's important to stress the need for a check of the valve clearances at the first officially recommended oil change after the new engine is installed. That would be either at 250 or 500 operating hours (or 3-6 months on a calendar basis) depending on what your O&M Manual recommends. I assume that you have one?.
I need to get a manual.
Break in when I was doing a lot of diesels was to start and run the engine till over about 120 degrees F and the raise RPM to high idle and put as big a load as you could get on it for at least half an hour. On torque converter machines I would stall the converter several times raising transmission temps to just below the red on the gauge and then go to neutral till the oil cooled off. Put it to work in normal operations after that.
Don't baby it that's for certain. You can download a manual online for around $50. Go to - https://catpublications.com/ Click on "Continue as Guest" Type SEBU8146 in the box and click Search. You should see this......... If you select a pdf download it normally takes about 5 minutes. CD or paper versions attract S&H on top of the price shown.
Thanks for the help. I wonder what a hard copy would cost. It would be nice to have one to keep in the cab
$57. It’s right there on the illustration that I posted above.
I am also resealing the radiator cores. Part of them are aluminum and part of them are copper. What antifreeze should I use?
One part of the radiator is actually the aftercooler for the inlet air from the turbo. That will be the aluminium cores. The other set of cores will be for the radiator. The recommended coolant is a 50/50 premix that meets Caterpillar EC-1 specification. Any product meeting EC-1 will be a red colour. Caterpillar's own brand is called ELC (Extended Life Coolant). AFAIK Peak brand Final Charge coolant is the same product and is sold at nationally at Walmart among other outlets - https://www.owi.com/commercial/brands/final-charge
Cat ELC. There is also an additive you want to get to help protect the cores you can get it at your dealer just ask at the parts counter. and if this machine happens to have an EGR cooler you need to use a vacuum filler tool to fill the coolant to prevent any air bubbles from forming in the cooler and causing it to fail and potentially wiping your engine out.
Is that the additive to passivate the aluminium.? From memory the cores in this radiator are copper-nickel. All LAY prefix tractors were TIER 3 when built IIRC. We had a couple of them and they had no EGR cooler.
2 of my radiator cores are definitely aluminum. They were probably replaced.
You mean two of the six cores shown below.? If so you probably need to think about dumping at least a bottle of Conditioner, maybe two, in the system when you refill it. See attached. I think you could possibly have a couple of aftermarket cores. The OEM Part Number for the Core is not aluminium. However with the conditioner it shouldn't matter either way. Another suggestion. When you reinstall the cores with new seals at the bottom DO NOT use anything petroleum-based such as Vaseline as a lubricant. It will rot the new seals. Better to use something like liquid dish soap.
Yes I am talking about the six cores and two of them are aluminum. I will plan on using conditioner. Thanks.
I am getting further along on the project. What should I use to seal the flywheel housing to the block? Cat dealer says to use locktite 38657 which I believe is anaerobic and won’t work on the aluminum oil pan from what I’ve read, and the fly wheel housing joins it as well as the engine block. What are your thoughts?
Cat 1U-8846 Liquid Gasket, aka "Cat Red".
That cross references to Loctite 38657 A handy link, Loctite for Cat applications with a crossrefrence in the index for the Cat part numbers you find in the service manuals. SOME of these products will be available at a Cat dealer especially the more common ones. https://www.proloctite.com/caterpillar/downloads/cat-global-catalog-na.pdf
Should I use blue loctite on the flywheel bolts
If you are reusing the bolts the Service Manual calls for Loctite 243 and torque the bolts to 220+/-30 ft.lbs. There is no Loctite called out for new bolts and the torque specification remains the same.
i personally would still use loctite on the new bolts myself. Belt and suspenders approach never hurts.
A properly torqued bolt in a properly engineered connection will not come loose on its own. You can observe this when you are taking them loose without impact tools. The installation torque might be 250 foot pounds but the removal torque may somewhere over 300 foot pounds. Problems happen when impact tools are used or torque wrenches are not used and the bolts are stretched into a yield state and they can no longer hold the proper torque. The other problem is vibration loosening bolts. The real issue with that is the connection is not properly engineered. To put it simply, I only put components together following the manufacturer's specifications and never used a synthetic agent on the threads except when it was called for by the manufacturer. If I had problems with a threaded fastener coming loose in normal operations, I looked first at the fastener itself, the threaded hole that it engaged with and the application that it was being used on. If nothing was obvious I then started looking for solutions that might involve some sort of synthetic thread locking compound. If it wasn't loose when you took it apart and Loctite wasn't used then, why complicate it for the next guy.
Thanks for the input. I am going to use loctite.
Hi, if you are going to use loctite run a tap down the holes and clean. Make sure the crank face and flywheel mating area have no nicks, dirt or bruised areas that could cause flywheel run out install flywheel with all the bolts snugged up tight,remove one bolt at a time and install loctite and reinstall and torque bolts This insures that no loctite is trapped between the mating faces causing problems
So I have an extra seal I can’t find where it goes. The number is 298-6387. The only thing I can find on sis is that it comes in a torque converter gasket kit. Does anyone know where it goes. I didn’t remove any this size but my cat dealer ordered it for me.
#24. 298-6387 replaces 6V-7681 which was the orignal Part Number used.
Thanks so much. I appreciate you sir.