Broke the end off of the tilt cylinder on the d6t pushing a little rock. Is there anyone else that would carry the rod outside of cat? $1000 new from them seems a little excessive. I don't have a welder big enough to weld it back, wouldn't trust my welding anyway. I'd weld a new end on it if I could source it but can't find one. Surely there are some dismantling yards in the Midwest that have the rod an could ship it to my door for $200 or less
Put the part number into machinery trader used parts search and see what comes up. What do you have to lose welding it?
Yair . . . I also think that is quite weldable and reinforcable with some cheek plates but why did it break? It's designed "to push a little rock". Cheers.
Agree , and pay attention how snug it fits in the ball socket when going back together . May have to " shim as needed " to obtain some free play in the joint . This welder is plenty big enough for that job . http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-AC-DC-225-125-Stick-Welder-K1297/100053881 Gouge out & pre heat a little and glue it back with 1/8 inch 7018 rods at 90 amps DC .
Did you get it welded yet? I will say that from my experience building a semi-u blade from components for a D6R, that $1000 for a new rod is not totally unreasonable. Of course you will have labor to put it in, and new seals too I would think. I was able to find pusharms and a moldboard from used sources, but all the tilt cylinders I could find were burned up. Cat wanted over $7000 for a new one. I was finally able to find a brand new one for 6R/6T with lots of bolts, connecting plates, caps, shims and other good stuff in the box for $4000 from a company that rigs out pipeline dozers. I think maybe they don't use these on the pipeline much. Anyway, if you can't get it to hold when you weld it, this will give you some perspective on parts pricing.
Did you get it welded yet? I will say that from my experience building a semi-u blade from components for a D6R, that $1000 for a new rod is not totally unreasonable. Of course you will have labor to put it in, and new seals too I would think. I was able to find pusharms and a moldboard from used sources, but all the tilt cylinders I could find were burned up. Cat wanted over $7000 for a new one. I was finally able to find a brand new one for 6R/6T with lots of bolts, connecting plates, caps, shims and other good stuff in the box for $4000 from a company that rigs out pipeline dozers. I think maybe they don't use these on the pipeline much. Anyway, if you can't get it to hold when you weld it, this will give you some perspective on parts pricing.
Likely could be welded but need a competent welder to do it. Not even worth trying if you don't have the experience. It's not a clip for holding a headlight. It took a lot of force to break and that same force will be there when it goes back together. Another option is a machine shop could make up a new end piece that could be welded on. I don't understand how you can have a D6T and complain a $1000 repair is too much. It is the equivalent of my 1986 931B having a $200 repair. Nobody likes repairs but if I can get away under $500 I'm doing good. It cost me over $1300 to repair the stick cylinder on my hoe and around $1600 to repair the rotary swing cylinder and my machine isn't worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. It's like having a Ferrari and complaining about the price of gas.
Yair . . . As I asked up thread there has to be a reason it broke. A clean break like that doesn't happen under normal circumstances . . . did it have a lot of slop and someone took out some shims? Cheers.
That would have taken a lot of force to break. I wonder if some bolts were loose or something?
Been busy other wise I would have responded sooner. I welded it back and it seems to be holding for now. There were no bolts loose and there was the correct amount of shims in place. I was digging out a huge rock and the top corner of the blade caught on opposite side which caused this cylinder to break. And yes I do feel that a $1000 is a lot of money to spend on a new cylinder rod even if it is a d6t.
not saying this happened i just remember that i have caterpillar training (dozing with large tract type tractors) video on rock removing and dislodging and they express not to use any of the tilt function for prying ect. use the two blade cylinders off the blade. And some how that stayed pinned in my brain every time Im getting a big stump out. Dont feel bad on a very cold morning at a coal mine project they decided we were going to haul frozen earth my guy started up my fx600 exc. the first thing he did was push a frozen boulder out of the way and the eye broke off at the end of the cylinder rod for the stick. Called to see about a new one the price was $20,000 the hydraulic shop made me one and save my ass at $11,000.
Yair . . . . fiat41b raises a point. It never occurred to me that anyone would try to pry with the tilt ram. On a single tilt ram tractor, when doing serious prying (if possible) I would pry on the corner with the tilt ram sucked right in . . . not always possible of course. Cheers.
Price out a new cylinder, it's probably pushing 10K!