Hello all, I am needing help on D7E s/n 76E1891 build date 9-68. I am looking for correct procedure for testing and disassembly/rebuild of the steering clutches on this machine. TIA
Is it per chance not steering one way Not sure if yours has one the line coming from back of transmission to the booster if it goes into block with a big plug on the side might be worth your time to pull the plug and check the poppet, seat and spring seats get beat out
Do you have a diagram and test procedures for said line/poppet? I am currently searching for service manual for this machine. I will be back out at machine tomorrow and can check it. I'm "guessing" it's under floor pan?
It's under fuel tank if it's there 2 bolts on line 2 holding it to booster take it off and check it Unfortunately I have very few old yellow books I don't have that one There should be 1/8 pipe plugs on cast elbows for clutch release pressure I'll have to think a while to remember pressure (I'm older than the machine)
I understand im just barely younger than the machine but not much. I came from heavy truck side so this is far from my bread and butter
Check that s/n??? 76Exxxx is the s/n for the hydraulic control on the Military D7e The tractor itself should be a 75Exxxx prefix and equivalent to the civilian 48Axxxx
Here is the pict I straight off the plate s/n starts with 76
That is the ONLY Data plate left on dozer one under dash is worn paper thin no numbers left
Tractors of that era had three Serial Numbers, one each for the tractor, hydraulic control, & the blade. In addition to the plate under the dash the tractor S/N should be stamped on the upper LH rear corner of the chassis directly below the fuel tank. It may be necessary to remove several layers of paint to find it.
I will check recheck thanks
Well this has a ripper blade attached so I can't find any other data plates
So it then has a hydraulic actuated ripper at each corner of the blade? Thats a very rare option if so.
Heres the D8N
That sure looks like a military plate when we did rebuilds the had to come and inspect them before they were released There was a lot of stuff different on a military machine from a std one but I don’t think the clutches are different
75E1926 ?? By chance
Do you know where I can get a manual with test procedures at?
What exactly is it doing
Is there a plate on the engine block.? On tractors of that era the engine carried a data plate showing the same Serial Number as that of the tractor. This is provided of course that the engine currently installed in the tractor is the original. Only much later engines started to be numbered separately to the machine in which they were installed.
That is a military data plate for the hydraulic system, not the tractor itself. I'm pretty sure my military D7F has the same data plate even though I have a winch. My D7F appears to have two hydraulic outlets on back of cab and what I think is the ripper control lever in the cab. My understanding is the military ordered the tractors with the hydraulic controls built in so they could swap rippers/winches between tractors but I'm just guessing at this logic. For the military D7E, I believe the Army technical manual (TM) series is TM 5-2410-214-xx where xx can mean operators manual, parts manual, or service manual. I'm out on vacation with the family looking at mountains so it might be a a couple days before I can search around and see if can find any digital copies hanging out there. I have a little experience hunting for these manuals on the interwebs as they hide out pretty well. No promises but I'll give it whirl when I have some free time. But worse case, I agree with Pittsburg Cat that the innards of these tractors are the same as civilian models. Generally only the starting, electrical, and maybe some other minor things are different between the civilian and military models so an equivalent civilian Cat manual for the same series/engine/tranny will work.
This information may be incomplete but it does appear as though the exact S/N of a military D7E has a bearing on what service information from a civilian model D7E is applicable to it. Based on the reference posted above by @LCA078 I came across this in eBay. It may be what you are looking for. https://www.ebay.com/itm/201600116375
Awesome I will check that out now
The pedals go to floor and it won't turn, so I am guessing the clutches are worn out, but considering what a huge job it is to replace them I wanted to know test procedures and or if there is adjustment for them before just tearing it apart
Sounds like you should adjust the brakes first
Under the fuel tank on top of clutch cover there are little covers with three 9/16 head bolts remove cover tighten adjuster till it is snug note it will be tight every 1/6 of a turn when it stops back it out 9 clicks (turn and 1/2) should have about 3 inches of free play on pedals
Ok I will try that and advise
Sorry that is a pic of a normal ripper, at the rear of the machine, that is not a ripper blade. This is a link to a model that has the ripper blade and a normal rear ripper as well. https://www.equipmentworld.com/gear/article/14970408/vintage-caterpillar-d9g-dozer-scale-model-with-9r-rip-blade
Ok thanks
I second what Pittsburg Cat man says. Adjust the brakes first.5 minuit job. It’s unlucky aswell as unlikely that both clutches have packed up or your cross shaft has given up.
Well the brakes are adjusted up and the pedals goes to the floor still and no turning, I can adjust the clutches as well correct?? Is it common for cross shaft to fail
If you’ve tightened the brakes right up and they still aren’t locking the track up,that’s unusual. Will the tractor stop if you press down on both brakes when it’s moving forward or backwards?
Yes but I think it takes way to long to come to a stop better in reverse than forward, but I don't know these machines yet, night and day difference from class 8 air brakes lol it's a huge learning curve but I can't stand for something outsmart me
Fair play. Keep trying. I’m not an expert,but thinking brakes are either worn out or not adjusted correctly. Does the tractor steer slightly in all directions if you pull the lever half way out?
I haven't tried that I will be back out to the machine Sunday and I will try that and advise, thanks
Thankyou.
Also take plenty of pictures of it. I’d particularly like to see if it has a cab and what the bulkhead looks like. I’ve seen retrofitted cabs that haven’t taken into consideration the travel for the brake pedals. I feel your issue may be an easy fix by following some basic instructions. Good luck
Ok I will, thanks again
Are you pulling the clutch leaver then the brakes
I feel a basic operating manual for this D7E off e.bay would solve a lot of the posters issues.
The guy i work for has been operating equipment for years
So the brakes are adjusted as far as theybwill adjust, the owner didn't realize there was clutch adjustment so we are go to try and adjust clutches and see what happens
Yes we are pulling clutch lever then brakes
I didn’t know that the steering clutches themselves could be adjusted.
I’ve never owned a D7E old school tractor,just D4D,D6C and alot of D8H/K’s and never heard about clutch adjustment,only the brakeband adjustment. Are you sure we’re all on the same page here? No disrespect meant .
Once,you strip the steering clutches out,the clutch plates themselves are measured and replaced if necessary. In the case of D8 ccu scraper winches,once clutch adjustment is too far gone,I’ve bunged extra friction and wear plates in to get more hours out of them,but it’s not something I would ever consider in steering clutch problems. I figure if you’re convinced you’ve tightened both the brake bands right up (and their travel isn’t impeded by a cab bulkhead or some linkage problem with the pedals) then the owner or driver of it,that you say has been around them all his life,would have told you to take the cab and tank off it last week and waste no more time on the thing.
I would pull transmission suction screen and look for chunks of brake bands
Pittsburg Cat Man. Your above post reminds me in one of my D8’s that was giving bother in the steering department.It would stick on one side sometimes.The screens weren’t pretty and I removed the steering control valve under the tank to take a look. Well,it was full of brakeband and I refitted it to see if it would work. It did work,and I decided to let things develop the following week. You have to understand that I was pretty much a one man band with 4 D8’s working all over the country and employing self employed fitters that were local,so I was pretty much uneducated in the beasts.I certainly didn’t have the money to strip and overhaul every little thing on these D8’s,so often kept them going. A cowboy you might say. Anyway,that D8 worked from March right through the season until December wher upon I brought it home to strip it down.It got to the point where I could remove that steering valve on a night time and swap it with another to keep it going.I would clean it up and chuck it in the pickup ready for the next time. I proble did it 10 times until December. When it was home I stripped it to find the brake band liner almost non existent,and the drum scored beyond repair,aswell as the clutch packs wrecked. Pinion etc was all sound though. Machine repaired and went back to work the following season
The part I'm having trouble with is that I've never worked on an "E" D7. In my mind I'm thinking it should be the same as a D7F of which there is no adjusted of the steering clutches because the mechanism that releases the clutch is mounted over the cross shaft. A piston is moved a small amount by hydraulic pressure to push back on spring tension that is in the clutch pack. The only adjustment then is in the linkages that are outside of the clutch compartment. In all my experience on Cat dozers the clutch packs have all been the same. If you can't adjust the brakes and make the machine steer, then you have a big job removing the fuel tank and diving into the rear main frame.
they have no adjustment