This is starting to get serious. 'Bout time to start working the other way; this disassy is scary.
$30K can turn into 60-70 real fast
Bend there done that!!!!! :usa
Did you just notice the chunks in the bottom or is the final completely gone?
Just thought it worth saying, dont leave all those Gears on the Tractor, strip them off and store them on a Pallet, re-fit the Dead Shaft Nut flush with the front of the shaft, then Tape up/cover the remaining thread area, the bearing behind the Bull gear (big gear big bearing) will most probably need replaceing, also the outer taper roller bearing in the end cap (Big Cap that covers the dead shaft) these bearings are always knackered, the Dead Shaft on D8's is Bolted in, so there is no trouble with them spinning like on a D6, for a couple of people I do this sort of work for they always have me pull out the shafts to clean out all the "Gunk" that builds up in the oil passage, then they have me swap sides with the shafts, no I am not trying to get you to jump through the Hoops I have to, I am just saying how things Roll sometimes. keep it safe tctractors
Just remembered, I am rebuilding 2 F/Drives next week on an old D8 near Cardiff, I might post a few pic's if you dont mind???. tctractors
Here's a link to a D8 repair topic on the CMN forum. I like these detailed repair topics...very informative. http://www.classicmachinery.net/forum/dozers-f2/a-few-dozer-repairs-t2081.html Jim
Was at the local track shop last summer...they had a D9 final apart. There were two hand-fulls of gear chunks on the ground and the big gear was split through the hub. What a mess.
Haha, we just tore down this D10 today. D6c10K , did it look kinda like this? JASONM , shoot me an email if you want help getting some parts.
This was on a D9G or D9H...can't remember which...looks like you've got a little mess there too!
Thanks again for all the invaluable help, Tony.
Nope, did not look NEARLY that bad. Looks like I need to buy (2) drive pinions and one of the middle-sized intermediate gears and a couple of bearings. I think that I'm going to magnaflux all of 'em while the machine is down, but like Tony says, and I've priced the entire final drive assy (complete set of gears), it appears that each final drive can be completely rebuilt, with all new aftermarket components, for less than $4000 in parts/ side...... then have about $4000 total labor, but that's including the U/C rebuild and reassembly of the whole tractor. It's not as horrifying today as it used to be, before aftermarket parts suppliers brought the costs of the monster gears back to reality.:drinkup
My Goodness, that's a book! I don't see Roly has time to both repair AND operate that many tractors............ What a maintenance program he must have! The Roly operation is impressive.
Since you have both sides apart you can switch sides with the gears that are good if it looks to your advantage to reverse the wear, also remember to take a good look at the pumps. We would normally rebearing the entire final and be good to go for several thousand hours
What's the serial # of your machine?
Serial # is 46A29585. Thanks.
Pete that's how i use to do it.Replace the bearings and swap the gears,get about twice the life again.As far as the bearing their cheap compared to gears.Just takes one bearing to go bad and get the gears out of alienment and there goes teeth. If you keep checking your magnetic filters and you see the fine metal that is the start of the bearing going bad.I always would check the magnetic filters often.:usa
The most important part of the Re-build to D8 F/Drives is the fitting of the 2 outer back to back Bearings, these need pressing Home without damage, they cannot be "Hit Home" like some people think, the loading on the Seals will prevent this, a spare inner spacer will come in handy if you do not have the correct push bits, I have also seen "Fitter's" pressing the Sprockets onto the Hub's like you would tackle a D6, you can only Re-Press the parts back together by useing the Hub Thread to push from, the Sprocket to Hub Press Spec is 2 fold, a Tonnage , and a Distance measured on the front Face of the Splines, I think it's a 1/4"inch?, I have pressed past this setting to reach the Tonnage required, its not the End of the World to do this as long as you make sure the spacer is Wide enough to be effective, the D8H tractor has a Gasket between the Main and outer Case, I often dont fit this item and use the Red CAT Soup to joint these items, the outer Bearing Pre-Load, is easy to Set, don't try it with the End Cap Seal in though, fit the Seal after this task has been Shimmed up as required, I often leave this End Cap off to check for Oil Feed, by starting the Tractor Up and Driving the Sprocket round in Forward Gear until Oil pumps out of the Dead Shaft, when fitting the T/Frame back to the tractor, make sure the inner Wishbone Pin and Bushing is A1, as this takes a load of Hammer off the F/Drive, the top clamp ( the Half Moon bit) that goes over the Hub is Shimmed on 1 end only, the other end clamps a Key in place and is done up on this end first, check out your Service Book for the correct Spec', and post a few more pic's please. tctractors
awesome pics! i recently just did the same to a d8h-- new engine, complete undercarriage, finals. cost a fair bit but i love this old dozer.