I am working on a d8k it has sat for quite a while so I change the transmission oil and filters cleaned the t/c screen and it starts fine but when put in gear it loads up and then just dies.
Could the final drives be frozen internally,could the track chains be binding?If you pull the steering clutches back when you put it in gear does it still stall?There are many posters here that can ask the right questions and somebody will be along soon to help you out.Ron G
Maybe the brakes are locked on. RonG was right on about pulling the steering clutches back to see which side of the steering clutches the problem is on. Be a bit carefull with that, pull the clutches, put in gear, see what happens, PUT IN NEUTRAL before engaging steering clutches. If motor doesn't stall try pulling 1 clutch and put in 2nd, see what happens, back to neutral, try pulling the other clutch and put in 2nd, see what happens, back to neutral.
Reread post, it shouldn't die even if trans is stuck tight. I'm suprised it would die with an air restriction, but you say "it loads up". Does this mean blow smoke? My 2 cents, no smoke = fuel problem. Lot's of smoke = turbocharger impeller stuck.
scavenger pump my boss seams to feel that the scavenger pump isn't removing all the oil and wants to drain it if it has over a couple gallons then what? what about relief valve? the post about turbo is interesting I will check that out thanks all I am green
Just my opinion. If it has sat awhile you may also want to consider an old fuel line either sucking air or collapsing internally. Might want to check your fuel pressure. Turbocharger is also a good idea.
That's not much to go on. What do you have for oil pressure? Whats the fuel pressure? Does the engine respond to throttle? Need to have sufficient oil pressure to pull in the throttle stop on the governor. If it has been sitting a long time the rack may be sticking.
Powershift or direct drive? Later Bob
so today I started this dozer just had head replaced and still needs either to start any how I didn't drain any oil and not moving it stalled out at an idle then when you go to start it is like its locked up sorry I am not able to help out with any pressure numbers as I am green it may take a while
I don't know how much was taken apart but it sounds to me like the fuel pump isn't in time and it's seizing up. Later Bob
Best get someone in there that knows what they are doing or your going to have a boat load of iron to China.
The standard oil pressure on the D342 is 30 psi, the engine should start no trouble with the glow plugs even with only 4 plugs working, I suggest this tractor repair is handed over to someone with D8 knowledge before you blow its brains out with the Laughing gas, to give any real help over this forum on the tractor might be to slow and probably to late. tctractors
Have seen transmission pumps seize up. It's on the top right front of flywheel housing. Not bad to take off. If the suction line had any kind of leak the pump may of been dry.
I have a 77vD8k with the d342, I was gone a couple years and it sat, the tracks were seized a bit, I went through with a sprayer and lubed every inch of the under side working parts, it wanted to move a little, I didn't throttle up to hard, just a bit above idle and it would die. I used the blade to raise machine front and my ripper to take some of the weight of the rear, worked the machine back and forth a little at a time and it broke free, lowered and walaaa, I live on the ocean on Kodiak Alaska so issues like this happen. I will say this starting fluid is the means to the end, destructive but effective, I personally would change the glow plugs, follow the wires and check for any signs of chaffing or just replace all together, I had to as the wire's plastic coating was so old and weathered it was just chipping off like old paint
Would you have a picture of your iron ? I would be interested to see what a few decades of salt air and Alaska winters actually does to a tractor.
I do have some before and after as I have recently ground all the surfaces down, corresealed and re painted, I am currently replacing the turbo and exhaust manifolds on up to muffler and cap which have rusted through as well. a small nightmare as I have to drill and remove the studs seems how they snap like nothing, the turbo impeller has worn down so much the blades are either chipped,chewed,bent and gone. I will post some here
That's awesome ! Great work. You have to love working on old iron.... Can't wait to see the turbo impeller....it always amazes me on just how much use and abuse these tractors can take and still operate...well done my friend !
ill be heading down to shop ill shoot a pic of the turbo, remember when removing yours do not grind or damage any portion of the mount or you wont get any money back for core, I got my new turbo for 2400 and will get 900 back for core
Looking forward to it....900 huh ? Not bad at all....
NC Machinery here in Alaska is really awesome, the're customer service is second to none
I can see that. Great core dollars for sure. Nice to see you have a great place to shop that still treats people fair...and in Alaska where these types of items probably don't come easy...
With the ripper and the blade you should have been able to pick the whole machine up maybe?I would never suspect that the machine would have been frozen just by looking at it the way it looks now.She is beautiful!!Ron G
Random question . . . What's the purpose of the welded "XXXXXX" on the side of the blade frame bar? I've seen this on numerous machines, and always wondered why the were there. By the way, that D8 looks nice!
I am sure it would pick up but its really hard on the seals on the rams, I felt it needed to be babied before I put it back in to servce/hell lol these pics are all after I ground it down with wire wheels, ill throw a couple pics up of the condition of the top end, it really shows the age. still strong as ever though and I am excited to see what it will do with refreshed hydraulics and new turbo and exhaust system!
The XXX are wear bars for the blades arms.....
The criss cross nature of these repairs allows muck to stick in the shallows and therefore wear muck against muck
But in the case of this particular tractor the beads of weld are quite small and relatively far apart that I'd bet muck wouldn't stick in between them.