Hey Gents Got a nice job next week on our 53y D8L. It has blown the exhaust manifold on the air filter side of engine, before I start can anyone share any wisdom on the best way to tackle it I can envisage broken manifold studs. Is it better to heat them all up and let them cool before I start yanking on them. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I know they are a real SOB to do. PS any one know of a decent aftermarket source for the parts I need as Finning uk are trying to pull my pants down on price ointhead
Steve, a good way of freeing seized bolts/studs that has been discussed on here a number of times with the consensus that it does work is to warm up the area around the bolt/stud then melt candle wax on to it. The wax wicks into the thread in a similar way to what lead solder does up a copper pipe fitting and appears to make removal that much simpler. If you have any that break off flush welding a nut on to what's left of the stud down the inside of a piece of thick-walled pipe will protect the exhaust manifold face on the cylinder heads. To give the candle wax method the best chance of succeeding it might pay you to try to get the nuts off (gas axe?) without heaving on them too much thus leaving the mangled stud(s) left in the head so you actually have something sticking out that you can work using a pipe wrench with when you finally do get the manifold off.
It's been my experience that if the manifold studs on a 3400 series engine are still intact, a bit of rattling with a medium powered 3/8" impact wrench will normally unscrew them out of the cylinder head if the nuts have seized. If you are pulling the manifold you want to replace the studs anyway. Be very careful, I've had to pull a head on a D9N to get to a stud that was broken off flush with the head. There was no room to get it any other way. And I'm a champion at welding out broken studs in 3406's. The V engine in a dozer doesn't give any room for error. Oh, if you have to drill... don't drill through the head. I pulled a manifold on a D9L once and had coolant running everywhere when I took out the rear lower stud. At least it came out ok.
Didn't know about the wax trick nige, will it still suck into the thread even though the head is on an incline? I have a Snap on 1/2 battery impact gun will this be best done after some heat has been applied around the stud Zucker?
It ought to so long as you melt the wax and let it run down the stud rather than melt it to on the head.
Yes the wax will wick uphill, use a rethreader die to clean the threads up to the nut first. And no, don't use a 1/2" impact wrench. If anything use a 3/8" breaker bar and rock it back and forth. Again, there's a good chance the stud will come loose from the head.
As far as aftermarket parts suppliers go, try; Churchill 01652 648931 J Gaughan 01706 640637 KJ services 01685 841449
I second small impact something that will rattle but not break them off. Get engine as hot as possible and they usually come out good have always heat with torch until lately I've started running machine and seems to make a noticeable difference last was 3408 worked wonders. I got the candle trick in my back pocket for few months now waiting to try on a runner.
I never had any candle wax when I needed it but a similar procedure is to get the offending part red hot, then blast it with penetrating oil. I did this with a rusty and rounded off drain plug on the pump of an old fire engine. Hard to imagine anything rustier and that thing came right out of there. I was a little worried about the spray catching on fire laying there on my back underneath it but it did not catch fire.
Candle wax works.. Theres a lot of penetrants on the market BUT the absolute best I have found is, Kimball Midwest CB penetrating oil.. Since I've found that, I haven't had to torch a bolt in years.. I KNOW that's 1 heck of a claim.. but its true. Just give it time to work, say 20 minutes and you can practically unscrew the nut/bolt w/ your fingers.. I don't know how it works, but it does..
Yes that is a claim. B,ut you're trustworthy. Not a salesman... well, at least for chemicals! LOL
Kimball sales guy was trying to sell me that stuff, I use Kano Aerokroil, expensive but works great.
I use a lot of their products.. spray paint, penetrating spray, hand cleaner.. love it.. It doesn't hurt either that the salesman brings in warm doughnuts when he comes in, in the morning and ice cream bars in the afternoons.. lol
It must be very good............."not for sale in Ca.
That's how you know if a product works.:cool2
8L manifold update..... Stripped it today took off cover off and discovered it's only the very back elbow manifold that's the problem top and bottom manifold studs were sheared. I heated around the studs and sprayed them with a lot of wd40 did this twice and let it cool off and sprayed some more then managed to weld a nut on with the mig on a med high setting with slow wire speed and got them out after a few tries. Just wondering if I should fit a new elbow or clean up the old one and fit a new gasket as it looks ok Ps thanks to everyone one for the advice and suggestions
IIWM, I would buff it flat with a mill file, stuff it back in with a new gasket. YMMV