Does anyone have a pdf copy of the parts/technical/workshop manuals for this dozer? Just bought one and scratching my head on a leaky hydraulic spool controller
hi, if you could be more specific about your problem ,some of us have access to cat info and could pass on what you need Mark
THe spool control valve (hydraulic section) is leaking at the boot (when you skid left/right) and the hard 90 degree bend hose behind it. Looks like o rings may not be seated? Was advised to change the whole unit? Will this need to be done? What part numbers do i need? should I just buy a whole new spool control unit ? ps. higher RPM tends to make more oil come out faster. pss. also chasing the hinge on the RHS of engine bay (to lock it down). using a bungee cord atm and it goes over the exhaust manifold... Don't really like that option when its dry up here. D8N 9TC
843 THe spool control valve (hydraulic section) is leaking at the boot (when you skid left/right) and the hard 90 degree bend hose behind it. Looks like o rings may not be seated? Was advised to change the whole unit? Will this need to be done? What part numbers do i need? should I just buy a whole new spool control unit ? ps. higher RPM tends to make more oil come out faster. pss. also chasing the hinge on the RHS of engine bay (to lock it down). using a bungee cord atm and it goes over the exhaust manifold... Don't really like that option when its dry up here. D8N 9TC
As a newcomer you have the minimum number of posts now, try posting a photo. When you are replying to a post click on the next-to-last icon on the RH side of the menu directly above where you are writing your reply than follow the instructions. Regarding a "manual" it sounds like you are looking for a Parts Book. Try googling "ServiceManualPro". Genuine Cat manuals direct from the factory. Plug in your full Serial Number and search. There will be the Operation & Maintenance (aka operator), Parts Manual, and a full-blown Service (repair & test) manual. You'll have the option of pdf on CD or paper. Paper is slightly dearer.
Yep, pictures and S/N will get you more help faster. Sometimes personal terminology can cause all kinds of confusion. Just in the so called "English Speaking" sections of the world there can be all kinds of variations on what a part is called. Then if you throw in someone who speaks John Deere or Komatsu it can get crazy A picture with the area circled or a finger pointing at the part in question will go a long way.
Thanks Nige, will have to find a cheaper 2nd hand one somewhere. v THanks guys! Serial NUmber = 9TC03036 image attached This is looking down from the cabin inspection plate.
A Parts Manual will run about $75 from those guys, an O&M manual about $35, and believe me it will be the best $100 you've ever spent. I agree the Service Manual isn't cheap but unfortunately all the bargains on EBay, etc, disappeared long ago as soon as sellers realised just how much manuals go for. Not saying you won't find one, but you might be searching a long time. Also consider the manual an investment that you can get back the cost by selling it separately when you sell the machine. Another way of looking at it. How much did the machine cost you and you're jibbing at $500 for a manual. What's that equivalent to, a full tank of fuel for it maybe..?
Hi here is a parts breakdown for the valve .however sometimes you can tighten up the toggle area by removing some shims on a trial and error process Mark
Or what does the nearest Cat dealer charge for a road call in the event that you at some point need to call them? Not saying that having the manual will let you fix every problem but if just knowing the correct way to take care of the machine saves you one or two road calls over the time you have it may be more than enough to pay for a full set of books. It's not like a motorcycle or some other small machine you can toss on the back of your truck and run it down to the dealer.
Thank you guys! Yes we are currently looking for the manuals. found the Parts manual book in GC and noticed a few on ebay... bit dirty ... but better than nothing. I think ill try and convince the old boy to buy the PDF version of the operator & shop manual.
So I have the manuals on their way. Can anyone tell me what the operating range for all the temp gauges should be reading, and the transmission pressure? I assume thats what the gauge on top is. It's an aftermarket murphy gauge that is quite a high psi >300 atleast. I assume its the transmission pressure?
OOps: 60 psi / 300 KPA (when ripping)
With aftermarket gauges it's impossible to tell but with Cat gauges "normal" readings for a machine from that era had all the needles pointing at the same angle. Regarding that psrticular gauge try to see where the line that feeds it is connected to would be my best suggestion.
Think TC outlet Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
Transmission case pressure? Sorry to be a pain guys, whats the operating temps for a d8n 9tc. full load in 38 ambient degree C weather
Torque converter outlet pressure, usually around 50-60psi. If that is the case it's not a standard gauge on the panel and it baffles me why anyone would want to see it on a regular basis, normally it's something you put the test equipment on to measure. Usually the only converter parameter that’s displayed on a gauge is outlet temperature. The symbol on the temperature gauge should be a thermometer inside a gear wheel. Why not post a photo of the panel showing all the gauges..? The answer to your other question is, it depends on how good a condition your cooling system is in and what coolant you have in it.......
It's sitting on top of the dash. The only other thing I could Think of was oil pressure for the engine. But surely would be higher? I think you both hit the nail on the head. Hear is the gauges under load and a full day of raking. Bit of History Full engine rebuild (inframe) 400 hrs ago Full transmission replacement (CAT Genuine) 2000 hrs ago New Tracks & Rollers etc. from Cat with 5000 hrs remaining of warranty Also Serial 9TC030**... can anyone tell me the year it was built? need it for insurance
I'd say TC outlet pressure. It shouldn't hardly vary at all, hot or cold, converter stalled or not. The transmission temp looks a bit on the high side for my liking. Have you pressure-cleaned the outside of the radiator lately, and what does the coolant look like..? Also I'd suggest getting hold of an infra-red temp gun and check the temperatures of the top and bottom radiator hose when the tractor has been on full load for a while. Post the results, it'll be a good indication of how efficiently your radiator is functioning.
we are going to use the high flow compressor to clean the outside the radiator. THe radiator itself has been upgraded to handle raking in the dry australian climate. Coolant is a light green, looks like tecaloy (common green coolant); however would like to flush and use the red Cat coolant. However I have read it is not great to mix them ? No change in coolant levels over past few days. Infra-red gun is on the bus up. We got one that goes upto 350 deg C. should be plenty. THanks for the help so far Nige, appreciate it... a lot. Nearest caterpillar dealership is 800km away or 12 hrs drive. So we have to rely on what we find "online" until these darn manuals come up on the bus. PS. Our daily temps out here are 38 deg C. on average this time of the year with no humidity.
Swap you. My temperatures are about the same but with 90% humidity...... Radiators I prefer to clean with a pressure washer rather than air. Some muck can set like concrete and only soaking with water will soften it enough to move it out of the tight corners in the hardnose. Regarding coolant. You could swap to a red ELC provided you cleaned the inside of the system well. Get hold of some non-foaming dishwasher machine detergent and throw that in with some clean water then give it beans for an hour or so. Depending on what colour comes out you may have to repeat with detergent. Otherwise flush a couple of times with clean water and fill with ELC and you should be good to go.
Sorry for my silly question but which hoses are the top and bottom? I think I got the top and bottom. Both reading 73... Also where is a good IR gun spot to measure transmission temp and engine as well?
Been a while, We are going to install an external air cooler.. All the dozer up our way are overheating, so it's not just us. Also our air filters are collapsing after five hours of silting up.. Could it be our venturi is not working? We fixed a big hole in the hose from the muffler to the filter housing, and now our filters are collapsing? The transmission gauge is 20-35 degrees out... However water Temps get up to 100 pretty quickly (4-5) degrees out. Have had the water temp alarm go off once and shut down on me. Water cooling system stays close to 100 once engine oil temp is close to 85-90 deg Celsius
Yair . . . frysie. I notice you mentioned raking? If you are stick raking with a high rake like a Gessner or a Homan overheating can be caused by recirculation of hot air from the fan hitting the back of the rake and being sucked back through the engine side screens. This was a problem forty five or fifty years ago and all our rake tractors were fitted with 21/2"x 3/8" deflectors welded across the outside of the radiator guards to direct the hot air up at an angle over the rake rather than blasting it straight ahead Not saying it is the problem in your case but it may be worth looking into. Cheers.
That's what I've been thinking. The fan blows like the clacker and I notice the hot air hits the top under the back lip of the rake and is getting suckeD back into the side of the machine (fan is a push type)... A lot of machines up here in FNQ are installing external transmission coolers Scrub puller are you from Australia?
Yair . . . frysie. Yeh mate. Retired central Qld coast now. Cheers.
A good spraying to the Radiator in the little cooler with a presserwasher will help keep your teamps down