D8N 9TC03863 Was pushing piles with it no problem, machine sat for a day or two, now the starter clunks and won’t spin, like something is holding the engine back. I took the starter out and it spins just fine away from the flywheel. I cannot turn the engine over with a barring tool. I was going to start disconnecting pumps to see if they might be holding it back. Is there something else I should check?
Folks talk about hydro lock- pull injectors and try barring over and see if/what comes out. Injector could have failed and leaked down
Is either the oil or coolant level low.? Before starting to mess with pumps pull the injectors as a first step and see if the engine can be turned over.
If you don't have a special tool for turning the engine, try the tried-and-true method of using a Stilson wrench. Take a Stilson wrench of the appropriate size and use it to turn the engine by the front damper.
And is it turning okay now?
I pulled the nozzles. There’s definitely coolant getting mixed. Everything is milky. I tried to turn it over with the nozzles removed and it’s still seized.
I initially tried turning it over with the starter and it wouldn’t move. Barring it over with a ratchet, it’s turning over very hard and there is a little tick coming from around cylinder #5
Don’t waste any more effort. Engine out time. The crank is going to be toast so attempting an in-frame would be a waste of time.
Could the cylinders just be rusted? What do you think about putting some ATF down the bores and barring back and forth?
You have the injectors out. Stick a borescope down each hole and take a look. My money is still on “the engine’s coming out” option.
And from all my time spent, in the past, and all the climbing etc etc. Inframes on anything are a huge waste of time, and much more unnecessary work and effort, than out of frame.
I doubt rust in cylinders since you had used it a few days prior…not gonna hurt to put some atf/marvel mystery oil down to see if it changes…but like Nige said, your best bet is to scope cylinders. Who knows maybe a valve/valve seat is acting stupid?? Did you idle it down after using it to cool/stabilize temps before shutting down?? Engine out is likely the best bet, but maybe before that effort pull oil pan and look for chunks, and/or pull a couple caps to verify the damage… Chidog, would you suspect it’s an extra 6-12 hours to pull engine? BUT to save the crawling/climbing/elbow cracking is worth the “extra” hours?! Not to mention I bet the rebuild precision goes up b/o the access/visibility is superior. Hunter sorry for your troubles, send a few pics so we can see a bit more of what ur running into…
There is a chance piston pin bushing has turned and the pin is now seized in a piston. I saw it happen. and the shop foreman told me it was well know problem in 8N's. An in frame repair is not prctocal because I think that motor will coming out to if it has more than one problem. IMHO.
If you have ever worked on a 46A, to do all things that should be done, the work and time spent in frame would be likely more than the removal time. I forget what the trouble is with the rear seal and front, on them its been a long time, but there is that main frame crossmember that supports the equalizer bar and its a huge pain in the rear to work around it, even removing the oil pans, yeah the fun it all was especially with no pressure washer at the first few times I had to play with them. Many times an inframe has to become an outa frame, when machine work is required. I've had my times with many inframe jobs, even being a younger person then, I hated it.
This tractor is an 8N with a 3406 engine in it which is much smaller than the D342 in older model D8s. Even so snatching the engine makes far more sense than struggling for all the reasons given above.