first time trying to use aux hydraulics on my 2013 Deere 319d they work for a few seconds on the slide on right joystick the one way, then they get cut off and throw code aux hydraulics extend output Out of Range Low. Dealer figured it’s joystick or spool. To replace joystick is $800 so don’t want to guess. They sell the buttons separate but not the slide. Any easy way to test? From the looks of the buttons on the right joystick should be able to use hydraulics on the buttons on right joystick?
If the electrical problem is in the joystick, they are none serviceable and the joystick will have to be replaced as a unit, at least the ones I've done have been that way. You can measure the voltages and see what see if the problem is in the joystick or spool side.
What codes do you have?
Press and hold menu button with the key on engine off until service menu appears in the monitor. Use the next button until diagnostics - hit select - next until right joystick - select - next until roller roller channel 1/2. You can watch the voltage that comes from the roller in the monitor. In neutral it should be approx 2.5 V for both channels. When the roller is moved completely in one direction you should have approx 4.5 V on one channel and 0.5 V on the other channel. Then when the roller is moved to the opposite extreme the voltages should reverse. Any voltage over 4.5 or under 0.5 will most likely trip the code.
The only code is the aux hydraulics extend output out of range low. Attached pictures of the voltages all should be ok then? So it would have to be the spool that is the problem? How would I check that?
That code (523935.05) has to do with the aux extend solenoid or it's wiring, not the roller switch. Now that you can get into service mode try the Aux hyd calibration (I attached procedure, which you would have to do if the solenoid gets replaced).
Will give that a try thanks. I called the dealer and told them the code and they told me it was the roller switch bad or the spool, so obviously they have no idea what they are talking about.
Did test, it failed on the first part aux extend until pressure. Tried about 5 times same every time. Doesn’t make any noise when using roller that way.
You can check the resistance of the aux solenoids. Should be 5.0-9.6 ohms. See attachment for solenoid location.
Can they be checked in the service menu also or do they need to be checked manually?
Check them manually.
Been meaning to get to fixing this. Sorry but mg2361, where would the aux solenoids in that diagram be located on the machine? At this point would it have to be them or could it still be something else?
They are highlighted, Y23 and Y24. Did you check the resistance of the solenoids?
Sorry I meant where would those be? I’m assuming I need to raise the cab and it’s under there?
It is under your feet.
Got them checked both about 5.5 however one tests easy, the other one took a few minutes to get a reading, could it still be bad? They are a pain to check with the prongs so far in, but 23 was definitely worse. I removed them from machine to test, would I need to prime pump as I lost some oil removing them? Going to call dealer if they have it and it’s not crazy priced just going to try replacing it.
Well I made some progress, kinda. I ended up putting everything back together as I need the machine tomorrow. Now when I turn the roller switch down numerous times and you can hear the hydraulics working, and no code comes up like before. However when I slide it up, nothing happens at all. So it's changed. I am 99.99% sure I put the proper solenoid back in it's location as well as the plug? Shouldn't the roller work going up I think it did before? Does this mean that a solenoid is likely bad? Or maybe just be re-seating a bunch of the connectors changed it? I tried to get a piece on the solenoids from the dealer, but wow they are clueless. First he asked if it was the hydraulic quick coupler, then said all there is is a manifold for the aux hydraulics, etc before I gave up.
$377 for the solenoid (AT335739). I don't think that is your issue. The code is for low current which would most likely be an open wire or a bad connection. If it was your solenoid your ohms reading on the solenoid should have been out of spec high.
Fair enough that helps, at that price i'm sure glad they are ok. So would the bad wire likely be from the solenoid back to wherever it goes, or would there be more wiring elsewhere for it? No idea if it might be connected but I tried to use the float yesterday and got a code, I believe it was float circuit extend output out of range low? I think it was exactly the same as the aux hydraulics code just float instead. I don't care about the float function, but is there any chance these wiring issues are connected in some way?
The float code can be ignored. The switch is a momentary switch that only needs to be activated and released right away to engage float. Many operators think the float switch has to be held to operate the float and when it is held it creates a code because the HCU does not see the switch state change back and thinks there is now a problem. Your original problem is an issue all to itself. Like I said, most likely connection/wiring issue. Those can be the hardest to find. Another thought. If you use the aux buttons and not the roller do the aux's work ok?
Ah ok I guess the float is just a ID10T error The aux buttons all do nothing, I tried looking for some switch or what not that changes to them from the roller but couldn't find anything?
Sorry, I am incorrect. Only the roller switch is used for auxiliaries on that machine. Concentrate on the wiring/connection issue.
Well i'm pretty sure I got it figured out. Spent a few hours removing all the looms and connectors and traced the wires back up to the plug at rear of cab and did continuity test, one failed, so from the cab connector to the one harness there's a problem, not right to the solenoid as that last bit on it's own tested fine But oddly enough wire seems perfectly fine entire way. Going to cut at both ends and put in new wire hopefully that takes care of it. Noticed near cab connector there's 2 joints on both wires, can't think that would be from factory so looks like someone's been in there before. Sure hope there isn't more wiring issues elsewhere and this is it.
Wire fixed, and aux hydraulics are working no more code, fingers crossed that they stay that way and there is nothing else. Thanks so much for the help. I do have one other question. My machine I have 0w40 synthetic for the hydraulics and I share attachments with my brother and dad who run case with 10w30 oil with anti-foaming additive. Obviously I don't want that oil going into my machine from the attachments, so my plan was to hook up the supply side, have a loose quick coupler on the return end of the attachment inside of a bucket and push through the oil in the attachment. I don't use them much, maybe a few times a year. Anyways I know down on the roller is supplying oil, but which quick coupler would it be? I can't think of any better way to drain the oil from the attachments? It will pretty much just be an auger drive, i'm guessing it holds under 1L but still rather be safe then sorry.
Glad you are up and running. I think the oil will come out of the male coupler with the roller down.
So they've been working fine, but only 1 direction. The roller works down but not up. It's worked for drilling some holes but obviously something else wrong? No codes come up. Is there anything else it could be besides for the joystick?
When you watch the the roller readings in the monitor like I mentioned in post #4 what do you have?
Trying to fix the hydraulics only working the one way now. The roller readings are good, joystick is centered. It fails the aux retract test. If I use the roller up, it just does nothing, no code like the previous problem going the other direction. Is it likely to be another wire?
If no attachment is connected do you hear the hydraulics go over relief in both directions of the roller? If it only goes over relief in one direction, if they will reach, switch the 2 solenoid connectors (make jumpers if necessary) to see if your auxiliaries flow in the opposite direction. So if the hydraulics go over relief with the roller down, will it still go over relief with the roller down after switching the connectors. Then try roller up with them switched. Post results.
No only down, nothing at all happens when pressing the roller for hydraulics up. Assuming you mean switching connectors Y23 and Y24 from the diagram?
Correct.
suladas I am having the same problem with my auxiliary hydraulics roller switch it works in the down position but not the up position. Did you ever get it figured out?
Not yet, probably won't get to it until next week. Weather is pretty nice so getting work done on equipment that won't fit into the garage.
Does your roller switch have 3 wires or 6 wires coming out of it?
nevermind got it fixed today. Thanks
That's good. What ended up being the problem?
Bad connection in a wire
Finally got around to this and switched y23 and y24 now roller works up. So this obviously eliminates anything wiring/joystick related. Not sure what I should be testing now the silinoid?
When you switched connectors at the solenoids did you get a code other than 523935.05?
I did not get any codes when I switched them.
Sorry for the dumb question yesterday I swapped the solenoids and it makes the roller work the other way so it’s the solenoid that’s bad.
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Got a price on it from dealer, $610 trying to search and see if there is an aftermarket or any cheaper option, but I can't even seem to find the part number? I believe it's called auxiliary proportional solenoid valve?
I’m having the same issue. I’ve replaced the solenoid and did the calibration. Still isn’t working. Very lost
Replacing the solenoid fixed my issue. Are you getting any codes when you try to activate hydraulics? I also had a broken wire and it would throw a code, does it pass the calibration? Could be looking at joystick issue also.
No codes and it says it passed the calibration but I still only have aux hydraulics one way.
What does it do the other way? Nothing? Throw a code and lockout aux hydraulics until you restart machine? When I had a broken wire it would pass calibration as I believe that just tests joystick, but it would throw code and lockout aux hydraulics until you restart. Solenoid issue nothing happened in one direction.
No codes and it says it passed the calibration but I still only have aux hydraulics one way. Did you search out codes in the monitor or are you basing no codes on the fact that nothing pops up on the monitor when trying to work the auxiliaries?
I searched the codes and had no active codes.
And no stored? If there are no stored codes, then the circuit is working electrically. I would be suspecting the moving components within the solenoid are stuck or the spool itself may have issues.
What exactly is the spool and how can I check it?
The control valve is under your feet. The specific area of the valve depends on: is your machine an "EH" machine or does it have mechanical linkage? Need to know that (or have a serial number) to answer that question. Just so you know I won't be able to answer your question until January. I'll be offline until then.
It is mechanical. Serial number is IT0319DAPA019
Missing some numbers.
IT0319DAPA0190172
(1T0319DAPA0190172) The picture above is correct for your serial number.
This is a code that is stored. I don’t see anything that could be wrong with the spool.
Code definition is: 523935.05 Open circuit to auxiliary port (male) solenoid (Y23) causing low or no current, or return current is low compared to expected value. That code should only be active when the switch is activated and then goes to stored when released. Try swapping the wires to the two solenoids and see what happens. Do you get the same code or a new code?
I too am having issues with my 319D aux hydraulics. replaced joystick today with no change. I then removed new one and installed old one.
I have a 323d and having the same issue. I have nothing on the roller or the button. No aux hydraulics at all. I am getting these 3 codes
Welcome to HEF 323jd ! Should have started your own thread rather than piggyback another. Will need a complete serial number. 523693.04 - Aux Hyd Channel 1 Input out of Range Low 523694.04 - Aux Channel 2 Input out of Range Low 523694.12 - Aux Channel 2 Input Device Fault Press and hold the menu button for 5 seconds until "service menu" appears in the monitor. In the service menu you will get an option to clear the codes. Clear the codes. See what comes back. While in service mode go to diagnostics/right joystick and see if the Roller Channel 1 and 2 change when operating the roller. Post the results.
Sorry for posting in the wrong area new here. I tried roller test and it stayed at zero no matter which way I went. Here is my serial number. I can’t seem to find out how to reset the codes. Thanks for your help
Also I checked both solenoids and they ohmed out at 5.4 respectively
Now it shows 2.54 volts when I don’t touch anything and it doesn’t change when I move the roller. I wish I new how to check the voltages at the roller but I don’t know which wires are what. There is 4 wires. White/green, white/yellow, white/brown, and white/orange
White/Orange - 5 volts White Brown - Ground White/Green - Channel 1 White/Yellow - Channel 2 If you have 5 volts and a good ground to the roller switch, and the wires for channel's 1 and 2 are good all the way up to the monitor, then you need a handle.
Thanks man I got it going. Bought a handle with roller $400. Atleast it is going. Appreciate the help man
Do you have the pin out for the 12 pin connector so i can test with meter for trigger, channel 1,2 and the roller?
I PM'd you.
I installed that new handle and the aux hydraulics worked fine for the 4 or 5 times i used them and now it will work when i first start and then get a error code 523693.04 and 523694.04 and the aux quits. i restart machine and then they will work for a while then repeat. Think i have a bad wire or is the switch faulty again? Thanks for the help in advance
It is possible the handle is defective, but I doubt it. I haven't seen one fail that fast before (but there is always a first time). Did you buy the handle from Deere? At this point, I would be very suspicious of the wiring. Did you look at the channel 1 and channel 2 readings in the monitor? For both those codes to become active at the same time, I would suspect an issue with either the 5 volt reference voltage dropping out do to an open/high resistance (wire break or terminal issue), or the return wire (ground) has an intermittent open.
So i did look some today and couldnt find a issue with the wires and they all ohm out good but i ran it with the channels up on the monitor today and it would fluctuate a little but never drop out that i could tell anyway. the aux quits working and throws the code the most when i pull the right handle back to raise the attachment. dont know why but thought i would add that, also yes i did buy the handle from deere. Thanks for everything you are a wealth of knowledge.
Unfortunately, ohming out wires only helps you find an open wire, not a wire that can't handle a load. While 5 volt reference wires don't really have any load carrying capabilities, there could be enough resistance to drop the reading that does not show up on an ohmmeter. First, while ohming out the wire, did you flex the harness (what we call a wiggle test) from the handle all the way to the controller to see if your readings change? To properly check if the wire can handle the load, it needs to be backprobed and checked while it is powered up. Both the 5 volt reference and the return wires are checked this way. The 5 volt circuit should see approximately 4.9 volts or higher, and the return should be 0.1 volt or lower. Again, while backprobing, wiggle test the harness to look for changes.