I need to repair a crack I found in the side frame, right at the front edge of where front crossbar mounts. I'm not sure I can just unbolt the front bar and get clearance....looks like loader frame limits movement. I have the hard nose and belly pan off as I'm doing radiator/water pump work as well as hydraulic suction line. Was wondering if I unbolt frame, if I could slide it forward enough to get at crack? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Darryl
I think you need to support the engine and transmission if you unbolt that side frame. Make sure that the crossbar is bolted or it will crack again . I have had everything below that frame out on a 550 which has the same setup and the 450b loader looks the same as well.
On my dozer when I had it all apart(frankendozer) I plated mine front to rear. I cut out a crescent for the front bar and put a fish plate on the back side and used a little longer bolts. I often over build things, but over built never comes back to bite you. I also made the starter access hole oval and welded it around completely. It made bolt removal easier.
Thank you for the replies. It’s kinda like tugging on that loose thread on your shirt. If you keep pulling... I’m hoping not to have to tear down much further than for the work needing to be done. I agree with supporting engine. I wasn’t sure how much it could carry if I take weight off front cross member. I like wrenching but, I also want to spend time “on “ the machine. I see there are nuts for the belly pan mounted on the lower flange, limiting a full channel backing on the inside. Plus, without pulling the engine, no room to weld from the inside. Gonna pressure wash and take a closer look. Still hoping I can unbolt from rear mainframe and slide forward an inch to grind/weld from the outside. Will post what I wind up doing. Darryl
Gouge it out well as a surface weld is likely to crack yet again and generally explosively as the weld draws the metal into stress. Heat the welded area when done with a Gas Axe and then let it cool SLOWLY.
DMiller, thanks for your suggestion. It kinda confirms the plan I’m putting together. The frame has some “captured” nuts on the inside for the belly pan plus, the front crossmember mounts there, too. So, I’m not sure if I can plate it much behind but can probably put small backing behind it to get full penetration weld. Plan is to support engine and loader frame, unbolt side frame, remove (or, at least move forward clear of mount), stop-drill crack and grind/torch out, preheat a bit and weld w Lincoln outershield. Using your suggestions, I’ll Post heat and cool slowly. Scraped crap off prior to pressure washing. Found the previous owner didn’t have any loctite so welded the bolts! Between work, grandkids and other ongoing projects.... I’ll post my progress. Darryl
Always something on these old yellow iron monsters.
I put never-seize on my steering clutch housing to frame bolts. I used Tru Torq Lawson bolts and used a 30” breaker bar, it hasn’t offered to loosen. There should be room on the inside of the frame rail for a fish plate with no problem, just use a little longer bolts that’s all.
Lab, I don’t think they were trying to weld lock the bolts, I’m pretty sure the frame broke loose from the bracket and the bolts were just in the way. If you’re going to keep the old girl, I would really think about removing the rails and doing a proper job on them.
No, I was kidding. They totally piled the weld on the rear of the rail and dribbled onto the bolt heads- making my job just that more enjoyable! I would prefer to remove the rails- repair the cracks and maybe re-do the weld at the rear of the one rail. At a minimum, be able to baby the rails an inch forward to make the cracks accessible. As to what I’m working with: Previous owner also had a short, grade 5, bolt stuck in the frame/bellhousing hole to hide the broken bolt behind it. Thankfully that spun out using a left-hand bit. I’ll try and clean bolts up enough to remove before just torching the heads off. Darryl