I got the cylinders out, and taking them to get resealed tomorrow. Took the backhoe some real jerk to get them out Took my backhoe to pop those things out, they were in there solid. Instead of doing the reseal myself, figured a local place will do it for $100 per side so should be easier. Any pointers to get them back in?
You got the gland nuts off but couldn't pull the rods out? I don't think $100 will go very far. If the rods are in perfect shape, I'd guess you're looking at several hundred each to change the seals.
No, it has 4 bolts (1 5/16) holding the top cap on. So after the local reseals the the piston and cap I'll slide it back in. I've done smaller cylinders and normally the fist seal is the one which can hang on a lip or other.
Anyone know what the torque requirement is on the 1 5/16 bolts which hold the cap on. I'm missing that section in the service manual
Cylinders are out for new seals. Will need to clean up (wire wheel) the cylinders entrance area
I would at least take some emery cloth and sand it smooth. Make sure you lube the cylinder and the piston and head before installing i use oil but grease will work too. about 450ftlbs
Thanks, but I think 450 is going to make me look for another torque wrench. Would be nice if it was like the tracks, something like, torque 150 then turn another 3/4 turn
Just tighten them with a 3/4 ratchet with a 2ft pipe
Personally I would have somehow capped the lines. Not bashing just a suggestion. Nice looking loader. I’ve always liked those models.
Please tell me that post is sunk in the ground or otherwise secured.... it wouldn't take much of an "oops" to knock it off the loader frame! It may be stable just sitting--but accidents are things that aren't stable or planned for and happen regularly. I'm looking forward to hearing how your experience turns out--I'm getting ready to do the seals on my 955K....
Torque is 460, or you could tighten to 225 then turn another 60 degrees. It’ll give the same result.
That will work, thanks No, and it would take some doing to roll it far enough for it to come out from under it, tracks are chocked. There is no way for it to go side ways The lines are not capped but are covered, to keep dirt out
Haven't used it in so long (years) I forgot about my other torque wrench, it goes to 600 ft lb.
Cleaned them both up and the left side did not clean up as good as the other, but figure it should still seal
Hey AllDodge, The only reason I mentioned the post is I could see myself tripping on a root and tackling the post and have it pop out from under the cross brace.... It's probably more stable than it looks, but a couple of 2x4s screwed into the front and back of the post forming a saddle for the loader frame would give a bit more error margin! Or at least it would look more stable.... Now for the real questions--I'm getting ready to do all 6 cylinders on my 955K (MP bucket) and I would greatly value any insights you have from your experience! I would prefer to do them all at once, but I don't think it would be reasonably convenient. So I think it would be best to do the two lift cylinders first (the two you are working on now) and then do the two tilt and two bucket cylinders. That would minimize fluid loss (I plan on a fluid/filter change when I'm done)
fine will be fine the o ring don't seal on the corroded part as long as it is smooth as to not tear the o ring
Agree, I am taking a chance without something to keep the post from slipping off the top, don't see it moving on the ground. Figure I have about 4 or more tons being held by the post, and it would take more then me falling into it to move. Last time I work on it in this fashion (no cylinders were removed) I took a 5 pound sledge and smacked the post, and it barely budged, only a fraction of an inch. To remove the cylinders after removing the bolts, had them supported horizontally with the blocks. Used a 1 inch lift strap an the back hoe bucket. Had the extendahoe section extended out, then pulled it back in and it popped out. Figure going back in, I'll oil it up and get it started, hope it doesn't take the hoe anymore then support some of the weight
That's what I figured, have done several cylinders my self before, just didn't want to have to mess with the big nut on the end of these
Yes they can be tight I have used a 4ft pipe wrench and a back roe to break them loose before but now that Iam a old man I just carry them to a hyd shop to brek the nut
Also need to break the line on the other side, otherwise there will be a lot of suction when trying to pull it out. I broke the line where flex meets solid to be easier. If you break it tere, then there are a couple pieces behid that the bolts screw into, need to catch them, or pickup later A bucket under the cylinder will catch about 2 gallons or so of oil when it pops out
Still waiting on a call for the cylinder insides. Moved the outer section on the cylinder and there is quite a bit of slop there. Looking at SIS it shows a bearing of some sort, and if its like the others, its worn. Not really in the mode to get into any further right now
Got a call and they said my shafts are in bad shape. I didn't look at them real close but in any case they must have some spots. Said it would cost 450 to 500 total for the rebuild and should be done by Friday. I told them to go for it, guess I'll be waiting a bit longer
I would throw a heavy chain through the canopy( ROPS) and around the cross member just in case, the bucket will fall some but not all the way down and crush you...but your call, I try to air on the side of safety when I can...
While I'm waiting Have a hydraulic tube on the lift cylinder which was not leaking but does have some damage to it. Figured if I can get a better one within reasonable cost, would replace it. SIS shows its no longer available, and the few others that show up don't say they have it but will look. The part number is 6J7273 and is the left side
Not a bad idea, and do have the chains.
A mature response to safety suggestions ... Unlike several previous poster's threads...
Good post, seen some sweating from my one lift cylinder on my 973, curious how much the rod weighs on my machine if I can even hand bomb it without risk of munching the seals during install
Its kind of heavy for this old guy, I can pick it up, but plan to get some help to install. Either that or use the backhoe to help support
AllDodge just curious if you took the cylinder to Hodgenville for repair. I have used these guys a couple times. They have the proper tools to do these cylinders. Plus they are reasonable.
No, I called a place in Columbia and they estimated $200 a side, and was told about Froedge Machine & Supply Co in T-ville by a local, and they estimated $100 a side. Took them over, and was called saying they can repair but would probably start leaking, needs new shafts. Was told it would cost 500 to 550 total and are currently in the machine shop. Still waiting for a call
Are they re-chroming or building new rods? $500-$550 for both is cheap compared to what they charge here.
Don't know, but its in their machine shop. Did hear new shafts, but they could be turning mine down and re-chroming. I think CAT wanted 600 for each shaft
Looks like they made new rods, and it was 550 each and I did not complain (said I must have misunderstood). In any case the cost was reduced to 525 each. Have them in the truck until I get some time and my back starts feeling better
Been down with my back so have not been able to get back with it until today. Buddy came over and we put them back in. Used a forklift and some rope to lift the piston assembly and lots of oil and some grease, all slid back in. Torque everything down and its almost ready. Had 20 gallons of hyd oil but that wasn't enough. Going to TSC in Somerset tomorrow after stopping by the Kubota dealer and picking up some more hyd oil. They have a sale on Super S yesterday only for $17 for 5 gal, just my luck. Its not $28, oh well that's the way it goes
Much too late to help you now, but, to remove the rods, extend them as far as they will go with the caps bolted on. Only then remove the four bolts. After the bolts are removed move the lever to extend the rod just far enough for it to blow the rod out of the cylinder. If you are doing both sides at the same time, extend both, remove eight bolts and two caps, then blow them out. both at the same time. Put a strap on them to catch them and keep them from falling to the ground. You will need to catch the fluid. I like to prop the lift arms up so that they are level before starting the procedure. The newly sealed rods are not a problem to install back into the cylinders. You do need to crack a line fitting to install the rebuilt rods so the trapped air has some place to go. Sorry that I didn't see your post early enough to save you some hard labor when removing those rods.
Its all good. Did have the all lines disconnected for the air issue. It went together easy enough. Had a buddy coming over at 10 and had both pistons back in by 9AM. Got her all back together and she is sitting ready for the next job
Don't you just love it when a good plan comes together!