So, I have a leaking roller. I've heard mention of using a button head grease fitting and cornhead grease to lube as a temporary fix to get more run-time out of it. The plug is in tight! Regular hex key and cheater wants to strip out the head. I'm going to try penetrating oil and an impact hex socket and rattle gun and start low and rattle it a bit to see if it will work loose. Can I hit it with some heat- would a carbon rod and welder give quicker, more localized heat or would I damage something? Is welding a nut to the plug and option or, again, is heat an enemy? Thanks, DB
Not sure what vintage your rollers are, where is the plug located? You pretty much got two choices, run it leaking until it turns into a cow bell, or try what you can to get the plug out. Either way, sooner or later you're gonna have to replace that roller. I would probably try heating the plug with a welding tip on a torch and let it cool, if that didn't do the trick, then try welding a nut on, but that's me.
Thank you for the input. I don't know the history of the machine (other than PO was fast and loose with what repairs he did). I recently noticed oil on a track pad and attempted removing the plug but started to round-out the head and now I hear the roller "talking" to me so figure need to get something in there soon. I have a 5/16 hex socket and an 8mm hex impact socket in case it rounds out. I plan to start easy and ramp up from there. It's used as a "weekend" machine to clear my 5 acres so I figure I'll keep it lubed and run it as long as I can. The undercarriage looks pretty good as far as pin/bushing wear and sprockets. I haven't measure rail or roller wear. Anyway, I thought I would ask before putting heat on it and also wondered if an arc would be more localized than acetylene. Have a good weekend. Darryl