Hi Guy’s I am new to posting on the forum but have been reading it for a few weeks. You guys are very knowledgeable and are great mentors. I am in the market for a used Dozer. I own about 160 acres of land with about 4 acres open. I just recently retired so I have a lot of time on my hands. The ground has a lot of clay with a swamp at the back where there is some sand. Water stands for quite a while in the clay areas. Maintaining these trails with my JD 4720 compact utility tractor takes time. It is hard to put a crown on the trails for drainage with that. I also just cleared about an acre by hand (food plots for the deer) and will need to remove the stumps and roots and plan to do more clearing when I get that done. I do have a fair amount of rocks in the clay areas also. I am considering a root rake from USA Attachments. Used Dozers in my area and price range are listed below. The dealer tells me they are all in good running condition and ready to work. I just don’t want to buy something I will have to stick a bunch of money into a few months down the road. I understand anything can happen at any time but you guys may know what I have to look at based on hours and condition. Any words of wisdom in considering one over the other would be greatly appreciated. First Picture: 1987 Dresser TD8G, OROPS w/ sweeps, reads 3554 hours, 104" 6-way blade, new cutting edges, 24" pads, 90% UC, 80hp, weighs 17000#. Second Picture: 1994 Dresser TD8H OROPS, 4334 hours, 17" pads @ 40%, good rails with new pins, bushings, and sprockets, 110" 6-way blade, drawbar, 80 HP, weighs 17000#. Third Picture: 1995 Deere 450G LGP IV OROPS, reads 9809 hours, 114" 6-way blade, 90% UC, 24" pads, 70hp, 16000#. Fourth option would be a 1997 Deere 650G LGP reads 7529 hours, OROPS, 120" 6-way blade, 24" pads, 75% undercarriage, pedal steer, drawbar, 90hp, weighs 20500#. It is about 6 to 8 thousand more than the first three options. I am not sure I need that much machine.
I'd go with the one of the deere's all things considered. I have run these machines all my life (never owned one until recently) and nothing runs like a deere. Nothing will make you madder than working on a G either. I would look into a newer joy stick controls unit myself like an H or a J. They look pretty nice in the pictures. It's really hard to help you decide with just a few pictures. That 2nd dresser looks like a clean. low hour unit as well. Which one worked the best. Did you push any dirt with them, that usually for me anyway decides with one......good luck, they all look like a nice clean units........Go back and push/move some dirt around with each one. :usa
In agree on the choices leaning towards the John Deere.Do you really need an LGP machine?The LGP undercarriage costs more to maintain or replace.I have run all of the dozers pictured and those John Deeres are hotrods because they are powerfull and behave very well.That newer Dresser was the least liked of the lineup.I would be looking at the first TD-8,low hours and probably the cheapest.They are easy to work on,parts should not be a problem and they are well built. I always felt that they needed more weight and they are top heavy but you can live with that I would imagine.It is easy to be critical once you have gotten used to the John Deere dozers.Ron G
The first Dresser looks like a pretty good choice since it has LGP and you mention your ground is pretty swampy. I am not a fan of John Deere. The ones I have seen are finicky machines with high priced parts. Yes, LGP tracks require more maintenance in heavy usage but from what you describe that is not your intentions.
You should ask for some kind of confirmation of hours on the first Dresser. I really doubt those advertised hours are total since the machine was new. I would also ask if the 450G Deere has a torque converter or not. Many are direct drive which is a little different to run if you have been running a torque converter machine. I would finally ask for the measurements and specs on the undercarriage of any of those machines. A general statement of percentage means nothing at all. I like to say it is a percentage worn or a percentage left. Also on all these machines the undercarriage components do not always wear out at the same rate. I've seen plenty of new chains on old idlers and bottom rollers. So if the bottom rollers are worn 75%, front idlers 50%, top rollers 100% and the chains and sprockets are new, what is the percentage worn on the undercarriage? You get the idea. I don't have a lot of preferences going either way as far as manufacturer. They are all in what you start out on and get used to. Good Luck!
Great information guys and THANK YOU!!!! I have not pushed any dirt with them as it is still frozen in Wisconsin but will do so before I buy anything. I will also gather more information as you suggested and let you know what I find out down the road. I would love to get a Deere H or J but have not found any in my price range yet. If you have any other suggestions, please keep them coming. I want to avoid any costly mistakes if possible. Tom
dozer I never have liked Dressers, but they sure have a good paint job on these. What ever you get it sounds like the 24" tracks are the best choice. I really dont think these JD are direct drive, I do like the newer JD's but not the older ones with the hydrostatic drives Komastu and Cat are my choices Good Luck
nothing in the world wrong with a dresser. they are a pleasure to operate
Deere
lotsa difference in the hour of these machines. Prices?
dresser td 9 lubrication greetings. Do i have yo use dresser oils and fluids in this machine 1994 td 9h or can I use generic? How about NAPA?
I posted the listed prices below. What are your thoughts on the 95 Deere? At 9800 hours, how long will it last? The dealer does not know if the the engine has been rebuilt. First Picture: 1987 Dresser TD8G, OROPS w/ sweeps, reads 3554 hours, 104" 6-way blade, new cutting edges, 24" pads, 90% UC, 80hp, weighs 17000#. $23,900 Second Picture: 1994 Dresser TD8H OROPS, 4334 hours, 17" pads @ 40%, good rails with new pins, bushings, and sprockets, 110" 6-way blade, drawbar, 80 HP, weighs 17000#. $25,900 Third Pict$way blade, 90% UC, 24" pads, 70hp, 16000#. $24,900 Fourth option would be a 1997 Deere 650G LGP reads 7529 hours, OROPS, 120" 6-way blade, 24" pads, 75% undercarriage, pedal steer, drawbar, 90hp, weighs 20500#. It is about 6 to 8 thousand more than the first three options. I am not sure I need that much machine $32,900
All else being equal I would buy the JD 450.For cost of ownership considering the hours etc probably the first TD-8 would win out.That is something that you have to weigh in on and make your decision.Ron G
The D39 I just bought off IronPlanet is basically a TD-9. The Komatsu service guy I talked with before I decided to bid on the machine spoke highly of the model. The dealer also works on Cat, Deere, etc. He said it is simple and easy to work on. One popular opinion of the Deere dozers is that they are difficult to work on.
Hi guys, How many hours can you expect to get out of a 1995 Deere 450G before you have to stick some serious money into it? The unit at the beginning of the post that I am looking at has 9809 hours and the dealer has not idea if anything has been down to the engine.
TD8H. I like the 39, and thats supposed to be basically that.That's what I would by.
Dozer Purchase 1) Hire an independent mechanic/operator that knows the Dresser and Deere Bulldozers to inspect them. 2) The 3 majors expenses of the dozer are undercarriage, engine, and transmission. Have him analyize all 3. Have him work the dozer for a good 3-4 hours. Do the hour meter on the machine match the condition of it? If they can't provide a history of the machine, red flags start to go up. 3) Are all three dozers from the same dealer? Don't limit yourself to one dealer. 4) It's a buyers market so negotiate the hell out of it. Offer at least 15% under asking price. 5) "The dozers are in good working condition and ready to work." Not true unless proven. 6) I am always doubtfull of a dozer that has been painted for resale or has "new bins and bushings and spockets on U/C" 7) I'm not a big fan of small dozers. You are very limited on what you can do with them (basically just fine grading). Buy a dozer that you can actually do something with. 8) The Dressers are very good dozers. That is why Komatsu bought/copied them. Just my 2 cents. Good luck. I hope your first purchase is a good one.
I Don't get why you say you couldn't do anything with a TD8... I know I was knockin over some pretty big trees and pushed over a barn with an older TD9, About the same size as the TD8H he's looking at. The older Dresser designs (I haven't been in recent one) are my favorite dozers of all time. Plenty of balls with them to push stumps out of the ground,skid logs out and clear brush. I can't imagine the new ones would be bad.
Finish Dozers When Double T mentioned tree removal, rocks, and 160 acres of land, my first thought was a TD-8 was too small. I also cringed when I thought of a 6-way blade removing stumps and rocks. Athough, it is the right machine for maintaining trails and roads/ I agree with your accessment that the Dressers that were built in the 70's and 80's were very well designed machines as all of our crawlers are Dressers/I.H. from the 80's and early 90's. Just my 2 secs worth.
Why do you cringe at the thought of removing stumps and rocks with a 6 way blade? You comments may save me some headaches. Thanks
Too many cylinders to damage.
Grubbing w/ 6 way blade Yes, and there is lots of twisting and torquing of the blade w/ grubbing trees and rock removal. That is not what a 6 way blade is designed for.
My money would go looking for a Cat D4
I had a TD8-E from 1981 to 2003 using it mostly for making logging roads. I pushed a lot of big rocks and stumps from 2" up to 24". Big one could be done if you didn't sink. As far as damaging cylinders, I never did. The biggest danger was the angling cylinders, but being careful and observant I did okay. After 1994 I had a TD15-C, so I used it for the heavier pushing. The TD8's are one tough machine. They had a good design and still do. The 6 way blades have more pins and bushings to wear, but keep up on things and you'd be fine.
Iron planet I HAVE HAD VERY GOOD LUCK BUYING MACHINES HERE.I WOULD GET A LARGER MACHINE LIKE A D4,JD650,KOM39 ECT. DON,T BUY JUNK YOU WILL NEVER SELL IT. GET SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN GET PARTS FOR IN YOUR AREA.:usa
What are your thoughts on a 2000 Case 650 H LT Info reads: reads 4132 hours, 16" pads, 98" 6-way blade, OROPS w/ sweeps, 90% undercarriage, weighs 16000#, 75hp OROPS, sweeps, very nice & clean dozer, job ready!
Nice looking machine. Might be a problem in wet/swampy ground with the narrow pads. If you contemplate land clearing you might wish to put a structure on top of the blade to prevent log roll over. I had a friend who broke a hydrolic line on a Case 450 when that happened.
looks good should resell fine if priced right.I agree put a structure on top of the balade for brush work.
Well I finally made a decision and have my (new to me) 1987 TD8G LGP home. The root rake is installed and I have given it a workout the last couple of days. It runs great and pushes more than I thought it would. Overall I am very happy with it. Thank you all for your input. I need to get a seat belt for it just to keep my better half from worrying about me. Any idea where I can find one? The hour meter does not work (not surprising) and I have not had a chance to look at it yet. My only concern at this time is the Clutch Pressure Gauge goes from nothing at idle (in neutral) to pegged to the far right as soon as you put it in gear. Does this sound like a faulty gauge? Should I be concerned about it? Anyway, I am happy to be pushing dirt and clearing brush, small trees and stumps.
That is the dozer that I would have chosen based on your requirements of price/performance.You should see many years of good service from that machine.Ron G
Nice looking machine! Here's a seatbelt from Northern Tools. I always wear mine when working the dozer. Can't help you on the other questions :beatsme.
Thanks John!!! That looks perfect and I will be ordering it.
Nice looking TD-8! Was the rake on the machine? How is it (the rake) to take on and off? I get some of my parts thru Roland Machinery in Eau Claire. Where are you located? FWD
The rake was not on the machine when I bought it. I got the rake from USA Attachments. The dealer welded on the brackets for me before he delivered it. I have not taken it off yet but you are suppose to be able to take the pressure off the pins with the blade. Remove the pins and back away. When you go to attach it you drive into the rake and the mounts will slide up the blade. It will go quicker if you have a helper to remove and install the pins while you move the blade from the operators seat. If not you will be on and off alot unless you get lucky. I am about 45 miles NE of Eau Claire and will use Roland also.
International TD9B or International TD8E! Deere 3x the price. Half the machine!