Deere 550g dozer break band replacement

1. #1Diesel Dave2023-05-19 21:01

   I’m not understanding your question. Do you need info for disassembly of the transmission or removing the steering clutches and brake bands.

2. #2Jeff logger alaska2023-05-19 23:06

   Removal of steering clutchs and brake bands

3. #3Diesel Dave2023-05-20 10:38

   Its been a while but I’ll give it a shot. Outside on the bottom of the transverse case there is a pipe plug directly under the center of each steering clutch. Hidden by the pipe plug is an allen head bolt. Screw in the allen bolt in until it just contacts the brake band/ steering clutch. Remove the final drive pinion shaft (if both sides were not already done for the transmission removal). Remove the plug (indicated in the picture below) from both sides of the machine. . Remove the 2 hoses feeding each steering clutch. Remove the steering clutch anchor bolt that is just below the mid center line of the steering clutch.I believe the anchor bolt takes 1 1/4“ wrench. . Remove the 2 pins from the brake anchor hi-lited in pic below. The larger upper pin is pushed through the internal support webbing and out through the side of the transverse case. . Roll the steering clutch and brake band together as a unit out the back of the transverse housing.

4. #4Jeff logger alaska2023-05-20 15:50

   I need information on how to remove steering clutch and band. I have small chunks of something coming apart see pictures

5. #5Jeff logger alaska2023-05-20 15:56

   Thanks for the help my final drive is a double reductio. Do I need to remove that shaft also? And how do I release the break band?

6. #6Diesel Dave2023-05-20 18:35

   The steering clutch drum drives the final drive pinion shaft, You need to remove that shaft to take the steering clutch out. A final drive pinion shaft on one side of the machine would have already been removed when taking the transmission out to get to the transmission output shafts. . Once you have gone through all the disconnection steps I listed, “ Roll the steering clutch and brake band together as a unit out the back of the transverse housing”. On the work bench , back off the brake adjuster wheel completely and the brake anchor can be removed from the brake band.

7. #7Jeff logger alaska2023-05-29 22:28

   I just got new break bands in and they don’t look the same. your thoughts on that.the old one is the black one.

8. #8Diesel Dave2023-05-29 23:23

   The AT142175 part number is correct. Deere likely did away with the grooves in the brake band so it would give more consistent brake pedal travel. Does the brake drum have any grooves worn into it that match the contours of the old brake band ?

9. #9Jeff logger alaska2023-05-29 23:45

   One is smothe the other has some very fine scratches in it

10. #10Diesel Dave2023-05-30 08:17

    If you are missing pieces / chunks of brake band material they likely ended up in the suction screen canister . Would be a good time to clean the screen.

11. #11Jeff logger alaska2023-05-30 14:29

    I did clean the suction screen and this is what I found only a few peace’s

12. #12Jeff logger alaska2023-05-30 14:30

    They must have come from the transmisson

13. #13Diesel Dave2023-05-30 20:49

    It seems strange that you were out of brake adjustment, without finding severely worn brake bands. . Never mind, I see you posted earlier there’s 13000+ hours on the machine

14. #14Jeff logger alaska2023-12-09 21:17

    Hi Dave i got my dozer to the shop had to wait till I got my 518 log skidder out just put in a new 3304 engin in it.so anyway we pulled the transmission and sure enough the cluch material came un bonded from the backing plate. Some of the gears cluch material was starting to come loose also. so the new question I have is about the left side break cluch. So I talked with you about this in may of this year. I got 100 hrs on the transmission and break bands.so I am having the same issue with the left side. one thing that happens when operating the machine is that when you step on the brake pedal ( I have pedal steering) it takes a few seconds to start to turn, but if you slightly touch the right pedal it engages the left track completely, where as the right side works like it should here are a few pictures of the left side break assembly

15. #15Diesel Dave2023-12-10 00:04

    Looking at your 3 pics of the disassembled steering clutch, I don’t see any issues that would lead to the steering problem you are describing . Make sure there is no build up of trash around the transmission and steering control linkages / rods under the operators seat. Do you have Operation and Test manual TM1403 ? I would focus on all the steering linkage check and adjustment procedures especially at the steering control valve.

16. #16Jeff logger alaska2023-12-10 16:59

    i keep my machine clean very clean I pull the bottom access panels every 3 months and clean out the sticks and debris then pressure wash because I use this machine every day in the woods ,there is a lot of stuff that finds its way into the bottom .when I pulled the transmission this spring I took out the seat and battery box and did a through check of everything and found one linkage that was a little sloppy,it had 4 little bearings in it and replaced all of them . I had the linkage that shifts the transmission from foreword to reverse was sloppy also and 1/4“ out Of adjustment ,other then that everything is tight how does this center thing with the hydraulic lines work and does those two rings in there work? thanks

17. #17Diesel Dave2023-12-11 00:45

    The center piece is the clutch pressure manifold # 14 that feeds pressure oil to the steering clutch piston #7 applying the clutch. The two rings are sealing rings #13 that seal both sides of the port in housing #10 that feeds the steering clutch piston. See screenshot below of the steering clutch from the parts catalog. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/77456/referrer/search/pgId/656453/partnumber/T82356/callout/5 .

18. #18Dave Neubert2023-12-11 11:45

    I would of thought that they would be Teflon not metal check the housing that they ride in for wear or scratches also replace the bearings that hold the housing in line

19. #19Jeff logger alaska2023-12-14 18:41

    Well I think I found the problem I found the diagram in my book that you posted and my cluch pack is all messed up first of all there was 6 clutech disks and 6 linings on the right side, which worked perfectly but on the left side was 6 clutch discs and 5 linings. So in order to get any steering from the left side you needed to tighten the band more. What some one did before I got the machine they took apart the clutch pack and put the clutch disk down first then the lining,but only 5 of them. So when I look at the parts list #5 and 6 they call out 7 clutch disks and 6 linings (the exploded view)but when you look at the picture there are only 5 clutch discs.but on the side view you see 6 clutch disk. So where does the 7th one go? also it looks like I don’t have some other parts in that brake housing like item #2,3,13,14 thanks

20. #20Jeff logger alaska2023-12-14 21:18

    Skip that last sentence I looked closer at the parts and they are there

21. #21Diesel Dave2023-12-15 00:08

    Per Repair manual TM1404 the quantity of disks and clutch lining depends on serial number. See 2 screenshots below. . .

22. #22Jeff logger alaska2023-12-15 12:26

    My serial number is 767084 so the first page is my assembly 6 disks and 6 clutch plates whoever had this apart sometime in the past put it back together wrong. thanks