The machine had been working great, then i had it sitting a few weeks and now it just starts up in I and wont change to any other speed. I can change the travel speed buttons and the pump buttons but the throttle buttons dont work other than the I light being on. It is at a lower rpm than normal too, i cant move it without it stalling. I tested the speed control solenoid and it was reading 28ohm and the speed sensor was reading 3.4K ohm and was showing a steady 1.7khz on my meter. Im not sure if any of that is normal or where to go from here. Pretty sure one of the batteries needs replacing, dont know if that would cause this issue though. Any ideas?
If battery voltage is dropping below 21-23 volts, that could be an issue. Get your voltage situation fixed first.
Check your engine speed sensor mounted in the engine flywheel housing. I believe there was an ohm's test for that sensor in tech manual, but I do not have access to that info also how to adjust the sensor when installing. It is a 2-wire magnetic pick-up type sensor. Part number AH116104. If the controller cannot see RPM those throttle buttons will stay in, I position. This may not be the problem but is an easy check.
Turn in by hand until it touches the flywheel, then back out 3/4 turn. Unfortunately, no there is not . But there is this: Measure the AC volts from the speed sensor: I (900 +/- 30 RPM) 1.360 AC VOLTS +/- .015 ACV L (1300 +/- 30 RPM) 1.175 AC VOLTS +/- .015 ACV E (1800 +/- 30 RPM) .995 AC VOLTS +/- .015 ACV G (1950 +/- 30 RPM) .950 AC VOLTS +/- .015 ACV P (2150 +/- 30 RPM) .880 AC VOLTS +/- .015 ACV AUTO IDLE (L MODE) 1.175 AC VOLTS +/- .015 ACV
Thanks for the replys guys. I took out the old battery, it was sitting around 6V. She starts much better with the new battery. But.... that still wasnt the problem or wasnt the only problem as its still behaving the same. Im assuming there should be voltage on the lines going to the throttle solenoid, i got nothing. I also did the voltage test posted above, stuck my meter probes in the lines coming out of the sensor with it still plugged in and the engine running. The machine is saying its in I but i think the rpms may be slightly lower than normal because of the issue, anyways my meter read 1.33V AC. Seems to check out. Any other thoughts as to what it might be?
Fuses OK (see bottom photo)? If so: Remove the covers from behind the seat. When you key on, do the lights on the controller go through a bulb check? Start the engine, then press the test switch. Any of the lights indicate an issue? While in there, if the lights do not go through a bulb check, check the G50 black wire from connector terminal 103 to ground. There have been some issues with this wire. I think it will be on the top row, second or third from the right?? Also, post up a machine serial number.
The 1A fuse was no where to be found, not sure what the deal is there. The other fuses checked out. Maybe that explains why i got no bulb check lights nor did anything happen when i pushed the test button. I wasnt exactly sure what i should test for between that G50 wire and ground.. i had nothing for dc voltage but there was continuity. Attached image to make sure i had the right wire. I guess i should get a new fuse, or maybe there is a reason its missing? Machine s/n DW690E1539072
Put the 1 amp in there and let's see if the controller powers up. If you have a good connection to ground on the G50, then that should be OK. Your serial is not correct. It's missing a letter and you have one too many digits. Whatever combination I choose does not come up.
Ok ill go get a fuse and see what happens. That serial number was on my bill of sale from the seller, he must have made a typo. I looked all over the machine for it, couldnt locate where its at.
Tried three different stores, no one has a 1A fuse so i got some on order, going to be a few days. Still cant find the serial number, i checked the location posted above, there isnt any indication that it was ever even in that spot, no holes or nothing. I vaguely remember looking up the number before i bought it last year, i think the seller gave me the number and i think i remember it being one of the older models, maybe they originally put the plate somewhere else...
Nope, that is where it is supposed to be. Yours is missing.
Using the pic of the controller in @cg3p0 post #7 , the machine serial number can be narrowed down to # 546276 and below. .
A note on the G50 ground wire. Easy to create another problem. If I am thinking about the right model excavator, the G50 ground goes all the way to the negative battery terminal. The controller will have some ground with this wire, disconnected but not sufficient for controller to operate properly. It will do all kinds of weird stuff, just passing this along sense you replaced a battery, i have encountered this many times the wire falls down in battery compartment and customer forgot about it when replacing batteries.
Ok the fuses finally came in, but still didnt power up the system controller. I went poking around the battery at Steve's suggestion above and found only two additional wires connected to the battery, one thicker red wire hooked to + and there was a small black wire with a green stripe hooked to - not sure what those go to, the black w/green didnt show continuity to the G50 wire i had posted a pic of above. However, there is several other wires around the battery that were not hooked up to anything and one of them, a black one, showed continuity to the G50 wire at the system controller. This black wire is on a connector with a white wire (shown below) so not sure how that was supposed to be running exactly. The other pic is the other wires dangling around the battery, it looked to me that those were all red at one time, now fading to white.
All the wires should be marked with a combination of letters and numbers. You will likely have to peel back some of the cloth wire loom to get to legible markings. Once the wires are identified @mg2361 could likely check what circuit(s) are involved and where the wires should be connected..
That 2 pin connector should be for the Ether Aid option. The old wiring diagram for the 690E has some errors in it, so identifying some of the wires by color might be difficult. The only wire connected to the ground post of the battery besides the big cable is the G50 wire. If you have no continuity from that wire to the controller, then I would overlay a wire from the battery to the controller to see if it powers up. You don't have to cut or splice wires for a quick test. Just backprobe the connection at the controller and connect it directly to the battery negative and let's see what happens.
Diesel Dave you were right about the wire being labeled. mg2361 i did the test you suggested with a wire from battery - directly to the wires coming out the system controller but nothing came on. Can you confirm that i had the right pin location on the controller? You had said it was on connector terminal 103 second or third from top right. How do i tell if what im showing in the pic below is the right wire to hook up at? The wire hooked to the battery is black and green, the wire im showing at the controller is just black and there was no continuity between them so maybe i got the wrong wire location at the system controller. Also after looking at some other serial numbers for these machines i believe the typo in the serial number was that the 1 was actually an L, so the serial number should be DW690EL539072 And after closer inspection i did find the holes the serial number plate is missing from
Well i traced back the G50 wire from the battery to find where it enters the system controller, i showed the wrong location in the above posts. On my machine the G50 wire goes from the battery on a black labeled wire to a multiwire connector in the cab where it then switches to a brown unlabeled wire into the the system controller on the bottom pin connector, third wire from the top left. It did show continuity all the way back to the battery so the G50 wire seems to be good. I guess my next step should be to check if the system controller is getting power. Guess ill have to trace the power wires back to the controller from the associated fuses. Or if anyone has any better suggestions or advice...
Im assuming the main power to the controller is coming from the 5a fuse that goes to power boost/propel speed change solenoid/swing brake/ propel alarm/inj pump/system controller. I found that wire and power was good at controller. The other 1a fuse for just the system controller wasnt even hooked up before and the machine was working fine without it as the fuse had been missing, but i did find that wire and with the fuse now in i found it at the controller with good power. mg2361 had indicated a 5a fuse that my book says is an alternator relay, didnt hunt that one down, and the other fuse for the standby relay i did check the standby relay (and broke it while testing it.. oops..) anyways i ended up bypassing the relay with a jumper wire and the controller still did nothing. So i guess im buying a new system controller unless im missing something.
Well its been a while, just over 2 years since my last post. I finally got around to fixing the excavator. Made a little video of working on it. Just wanted to say thanks to all you guys for showing me what to do.