Hey all, Looking for a little input on two issues my 2001 710D has been experiencing. 1. It will intermittently do what sounds to me like a miss on one cylinder. This is always after its been idling for a few minutes. I use it to move firewood a lot and I will stop to load up the bucket and it will idle for a few minutes, then I get back in and get on the throttle and it will shudder momentarily and then smooth back out. Its never done this other than this situation. If youre working it harder it doesn't do it and doesn't do it while the throttle is run up to steady higher RPMs when using the backhoe. I am suspecting an injector is going bad. Does this seem plausible to someone with more experience than me? The engine hours are unknown but estimated at around 6k 2. It can take quite a bit of time to get it to shift into 4 wheel drive. I can't find a pattern with this. It can be trouble when you get stuck and can't get it in. I don't use the 4 wheel drive a lot and am wondering if somehting needs to be cleaned or lubed. Just wondering if anyone has had this happen to them. I've on;y run this machine so I don't know typically how long it takes to engage it, but I would assume driving it forwards and backwards a machine length should allow it to engage and mine does not.
Problem #1 does sound like the spray pattern on the injectors have gone down hill.. They're probably loading up the top of the piston w/ raw fuel due to improper atomizing.. & then when u throw the coal to it, it burns off real quick.. They're basically "throw aways".. The aftermarket sets on the web are inexpensive.. compared to OEM.. & the warranty is the same. Prob.#2>> TRY shutting off the machine & shifting to 4x4..
Need serial number for the machine for the MFWD since that machine uses 2 different transmissions.
I don’t have the serial memorized and I’m at work, but it’s the second generation of that machine. The later serial number group.
First make sure voltage is dropping out at the MFWD solenoid when 4WD is turned on. Solenoid is on the top left side of transmission, bottom of the three solenoids. If voltage drops to zero when 4WD is turned on then do a pressure check at the port shown in the attachment. It takes pressure to turn the 4WD off and no pressure to turn it on. Maybe the pressure is not dropping or is slow to drop.
Thanks guys. Yeah I priced injectors and they aren't bad at all for this machine. I figured that would be a good starting point but wanted someone else to agree that seemed correct. When I get a decent day i'll look at the solenoid. What would I need to measure pressure on that port?
Parker # PD357 diagnostic quick coupler will screw right into the port. If you don't use diagnostic quick coupler's then the fitting threads that you would need for the port are metric (M10 X 1.0 ORB). Pressure should be 230-280 psi at 1500 rpm with MFWD off and 0 with it on.
Your "supposed to" use a special puller on those injectors.. Theres a slot cut into the sides of them towards the bottom.. the tool/slide hammer slips into those slots & you beat'm/lift'm out like that.. its a helluva lot easier than the vise grip & screwdriver method.. The best price I'v found on the tool is about 120.00-130.00 Your injectors are called PENCIL type injectors.. that's a good search word.. What ticks me off about that tool is>> I broke 1 of the legs off using it for something I shouldn't have.. So I figured so what, I'll just buy the "tool" minus the slide hammer.. NO CAN DO.. Even tho the actual "tool" screws onto the slide hammer, like all the adaptors for a slide hammer do.. You CANT BUY, just the tool portion.. atleast not when I was looking.. & I looked HARD.. lol
JDE38B nozzle puller from Deere is about $100. I'll double check that and get back to you.
I am always a little blown away by the knowledge people here have and are willing to share. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7121-Pen...ocphy=9019864&hvtargid=pla-450164045984&psc=1 Is the puller something like that? I had honestly not even investigated how they came out, so thats incredibly helpful to know going in.
That's it. I checked and a Deere dealer should be able to sell you one for $95 + tax. Might be worth a phone call if one is near you.
sometimes they'll come out easy enough with a vice grips, they'll be scratched up but still usable if you need to. Rotate them around until they're loose before trying to pull out, easy does it.
Yup, THATS THE ONE I have & it works great.. IF your not gonna buy the tool & use the "other method".. READ/FIND OUT about ANY "core charge"!!!! If the vendor requires your old injectors & they're bent.. they WON'T ACCEPT them as cores.. & hit u pretty hard on the core charge.. You can always turn around & sell the tool after using it.. Good Luck.
Hello, Its finally (finally!) warm here in Minnesota and I am getting ready to replace my injectors. A couple questions - I have the service manual for my machine but it only says how to remove the engine. I found the engine manual ive attached on the internet, but its from 1993 and my machine is a 2001. Does anyone know if the information changed at all between 93 and 01? Speciffically I am looking at the pop off pressure on page 159. "b. Open gage valve and raise pressure to a point where gage needle falls rapidly. This is nozzle opening pressure, and should be a minimum of 3330 psi (23,000 kPa) for a used nozzle and 3650 to 3750 psi (25,100 to 25,800 kPa) for a new nozzle." I read someplace that the imported injectors can very wildly on pop off pressure. Are they adjustable? Does anyone have any experience with any specific vendor?
Maybe this will help.
To answer your question.. Stanadyne "makes" the fuel system.. I cant comment on the OP of the aftermarket injectors cuz I only use Stanadyne's.. BUT ..their price is like 80+ apiece.. U can replace A LOT of aftermarket injectors for the cost of 1 Stanadyne..
Hey guys, I bought this pressure tester - https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-6000PSI-Injector-Pressure-Testing/dp/B072F2JDJV Neither fitting it came with is correct for the injectors I bought. The ad claims it comes with an M12 and M14 fitting. The thread pitch is visibly different on the injectors, but the overall size is very close. Do any of you know what the threading on the JD injector is and how I could make an adapter? Can a diesel or truck shop typically make up these lines on site? There are a handful of heavy truck shops in town I could try Monday if the fittings are something they may have on hand.
If u look at the end of the inj. LINE on the engine.. the nut.. Do the 2 ends look different.. JD likes to use a standard nut on the pump end & an ermetto nut on the other.. Your best bet is to just buy a line from JD.. but make sure u get a 14mm end & not a 12mm end, otherwise it wont screw onto your pop tester.
At the risk of asking some dumb questions - How do these work? I have a TEE fitting and a straight fitting. I assume the TEE is a return of some type? Under the TEE is something that looks like an adjustment screw? What is this type of an end called? I have been googling forever. I googled "ermeto fittings" and these look something like whats on the TEE fitting. The other one has completely different threading. I'll have to look at the machine in the daylight and see if I can tell if the ends are the same on the lines. I didn't want to take anything apart just yet...
I ran into the same situation when I was searching for 1.. Luckily I had a nut left over in my tool box & just made a line.. JD used them on some of their Bosch INLINE pump set-ups 14x1.5 ermeto BUT on the Stanadyne/RoosaMaster ROTORY set-ups they used 12x1.5 ermeto..
Hey guys - I am still struggling to find a solution for this fitting adapter issue. I went to the local diesel injector shop and asked if they could offer a suggestion and they were completely unhelpful. I went to the JD dealer and they understood my plight but had no solutions. I have spent hours now searching the internet for some sort of adapter and cannot find anything I am sure will work. I can find some threaded adapters but don't feel they have the right sealing surface to work. The line on the tractor is M12 on the IP end, but the pressure tester is M14 male. So I can't use that either. I did ask at the dealer about buying a line and the parts guy was pretty clueless on what type of ends I could get, if I could buy just one line, and how much it would be. Does anyone have any other ideas? Or can anyone point me to someone who can make me a custom test line for a reasonable price? Pumpguysc - does your shop make line? Would you want to sell me one and ship it to me?
Buy a line for the tractor/machine & cut the M12 off & braze on a M14.. done. There IS an adaptor the fuel shop uses.. to bad they wouldn't help u.. I've searched for it too w/ no luck.. I ended up doing as above.. works great.
Update - I looked around for a used line with the ermeto fitting on it to make up a test line as pumpguy suggested. Cheapest one I could find was 50 dollars used on ebay. I called https://www.scheiddiesel.com/ and they made up a line for me with the correct fittings for 75 dollars. Kind of hard to swallow since thats almost as much as I paid for the tester but they were helpful and knew exactly what I was looking for. Today i pop tested the new injectors. Out of 6, 4 seem to work. One I may have messed up, but the other I didnt mess with. They seem to be popping at 4100 psi - a little higher than spec from the attachment posted above. I figured I would see if backing the set screw off under the tee fitting would lower the pressure so I loosened it just a little figuring i could always turn it back. I popped it a few times and it didn't really change the pressure, and then all the sudden the handle on the tester went soft and now it just dribbles and squirts like a squirt gun. figuring its toast I have messed with everything that moves on it and cannot get it to atomize in the slightest. The other one thats bad did this from the start. Im going to contact the place i bought them from and see what they say. Now I am not confident about installing them in my machine. What is the correct way to change the pressure on these?
Well, after a few months of running the machine now I feel confident the new injectors solved the issue. I am still leery of the poor quality of the aftermarket injectors, but they are still working after a handful of hours. I really should have done something with the MWFD issue while the weather was better but now it won't go into 4 wheel drive at all so I am motivated to fix it just as the weather has turned to crap. The switch is working as it should. I can't hear anything click in the solenoid though. Im thinking I should be able to hear something? I just ordered fittings to do a pressure test. How hard are those solenoids to remove?
dokumen.tips_john-deere-roosa-master-injector-pump-manual-sm-2045 Glad you got your injectors taken care of. I had found this online. Not sure if that’s the proper link....that’s the title saved in my iBooks. I’m planning to change my injectors without testing first.... hopefully not a mistake. Can’t help you with the shifting issue. Darryl
If you have the ZF transmission, then no they are not difficult to remove. It would be the middle solenoid of the 3.
Im honestly not sure what transmission I have. My solenoid is the bottom of the 3 I believe. That connector energizes with the MWFD switch.
You are correct, I was looking at the park brake solenoid ...duh! Anyway if you have 3 solenoids on the left side near the top then it is a ZF transmission. Just because you have voltage there doesn't mean the valve inside the solenoid is moving. Do you have pressure gauges? A MFWD pressure check would confirm this. There is a port (metric threads ) near the solenoid facing the rear of the machine labeled MFWD. If you don't have gauges then swap the solenoid assembly (solenoid and valve) with the top one (diff lock) to see if that fixes it.
Yeah, I am suspicious the solenoid is not mechanically operating. This would maybe be the easiest fix? I ordered fittings and a guage monday and they arrived today. Need to pick up a hose tomorrow and i'll report back on the pressure. What should the pressure be? I thumbed through the service manual lastnight and didn't see anything specifically showing how the solenoids come out. Do you know off the top of your head how they are held in? Completely off topic but I was wondering what the other 2 solenoids did. I figured one was the park brake and thought the other one was maybe the shuttle. How does a solenoid on the transmission lock the diff? Is there a line running to the rear axle?
At 1500 rpm and oil temp hot (150° F) the pressure should be 232 - 290 psi. The valve body of the solenoid is threaded into the trans. Remove the nut that holds the coil on and remove the coil. Then there are wrench flats on the valve body so it can be removed. Yes the middle one is park brake and the top one is for the diff lock. There is a hose that runs from the trans to the diff lock on the axle and it uses transmission pressure to engage it.
Well I think I got this resolved. Put the gauge on and I had pressure when the machine was running - no matter what position the switch was in. Took the solenoid valve out and cleaned it with brake cleaner and actuated it by hand a bunch of times. Plugged it back onto the harness and had my wife move the switch a bunch of times and verified it was popping in and out before I reinstalled it. I did find I had a little bit of an electrical connection issue at the plug. At first after I reinstalled it was stuck at zero pressure. I cleaned the pins up a little and now its functioning perfectly. A couple observations for anyone who comes across this in the future - The nut/cap that holds the electric coil on at first looked like one of those parts thats molded into a nut shape but does not actually unscrew nor is it made to put a wrench on. It does indeed unscrew. As mg2361 stated there are flats where the valve threads into the transmission, but I do not know what sort of wrench you'd ever get on them. I grabbed the shaft with a channelock pliers with worn out jaws and luckily king kong wasn't the last one to have worked on it and I got it out without chewing up the shaft. Thanks for all the help!
Glad to hear it is resolved .
A quick way to test one of those solenoids if you have a helper is to put your finger tip on the solenoid while a helper activates the switch. you can feel it move.