I had the dreaded flex ring disintegration issue on my 580D backhoe. It was running fine until this point. I bought the one piece governor and rebuilt my injection pump and reinstalled it on the machine. I followed all instructions and set everything back to the factory settings. I got the engine to run, but it would only run at an idle, with me holding he throttle wide open. Then after a few minutes (5-7) it acted like it was starving for fuel and died. It has new fuel filters, has flow into the inlet side of the injection pump, appears to have flow coming through the transfer pump and out the check valve and return. I don't have anything coming out of the ports for the injection lines. Nothing. The only odd thing I noticed was the instructions state to set the plug for the transfer pump regulator flush with the end of the shaft. It was set down in there about .200 deep when I took it apart. The manual warns that setting it too deep can cause over pressure of the transfer pump. I'm wondering if I need to turn it back to where it was. I'm really in a pickle and would appreciate any help I can get. Thanks
I could sit here & pick u apart for the next hour & ahalf.. but I wont.. That "book" is designed for a technician w/ an 80 THOUSAND DOLLAR test stand.. Put the transfer pump pressure adjuster back where it was..& hope for the best. {you shouldn't have touched it in the first place} Whats your complete pump #.?? DB2-3982.?? After u re-set the TP adj. run the engine WITHOUT the return connector installed.. IF it reves up.. let the engine idle & slowly put the connector back on the pump.. Does it stay running?? if so GOOD.. hook up all the return lines & your good to go.. IF at any time it shuts off after u reinstalled something.. THATS your problem.. U COULD have a blocked LINE going back to the fuel tank.?? "I set everything back to factory specs".. THATS funny..{to me} Did u transfer the timing line over to the new weight retainer.??
I appreciate the help. Yes my pump is a DB2-3982. My return lines back to the fuel tank appear to be clear. As far as setting things back to factory spec, I'm talking about checking the roller dimensions and that stuff. Yes I transferred the timing mark to the new weight retainer. I adjusted that plug because the book specifically said to make sure it was flush. I will put it back together and try it again.
Like TPG said, and HES the man on this stuff. Its pretty much impossible to get factory specs without a test stand, and even the slightest adjustment can make a HUGE difference.
Those rubber flex ring bits get everywhere.. & its possible that some were hidden & broke free when u put fuel back in it.. Re-set the TP regulator AND REMOVE the top side return connector & see what she does.. Fuel WILL spill out of the hole so be prepared for THAT..
Kip, I sent u a prvt msg..
When I took apart the second time, I did notice some more really fine bits of that flex ring. I was kind of surprised because I thought I had it pretty clean inside. Thanks again for the help
YUP.. They hide everywhere.. especially in/around the shut-off solenoid.. THATS WHY I keep saying> take out the return connector.. {just incase any bits were still there} A partially plugged ret. connector wont allow the engine to rev up.. What happens is> it stops the fuel from flowing OUT.. so no fuel OUT= no fuel IN..{starves & dies} & that's why I said, start the engine without the connector & try to rev it up.. if it does, slowly put the connector back on the pump & if it stays running GOOD.. {Dam I hate repeating myself, lol}{post # 2.. post # 5} Good luck.