So I have this new to me 05 310SG that has thrown an F9C4 code, which the internet tells me is a comm loss on the CAN bus. That’s not a mystery so much as is where that cross reference is located. I have the ops/test and base engine manuals for the machine and all of the fault codes are listed in the J1939 SPM.FM format, but I found other posts here relating Fxxx codes to the SPM.FM codes. Can someone point me to the appropriate manual that xrefs these codes? Thx. Tim
First, it would help to have a serial number to get the right conversion chart. Does the machine start and run? Does it die when code becomes active?
Serial is 942485 and it will not start. It throws the code as soon as the lamp test finishes. I should also mention that I have a replacement monitor panel on order due to the alt lamp feed pin having melted/broken out of the board. If I had to guess, I’d say it was a poor solder joint to begin with and repeatedly heated up enough to eventually burn/wallow out the hole. There were some capacitors around that hole that were also damaged. I suppose it’s possible the monitor is the issue, we’ll see in a few days.
Attached is the "FXXX" to SPN/FMI conversion for the ECU.
Thanks, much appreciated.
This turned into quite the ordeal.... I got the new SDM installed and still had the F9C4 fault code, so more digging. It's mentioned elsewhere on the forum that the ECU has both switched and unswitched 12V inputs. I discovered I had neither. Looking in the schematic, I found a line described as unswitched power to the ECU, but it was rather clearly connected to the switched side of the accessory relay both on the machine and in the schematics. Apprently unswitched means something different here. I jumped the relay to see if it activated and it was bad, so I went ahead and orderd that. UPS helped me by sending it to Philly instead of delivering after it arrived here in town, so I got to wait an extra week for that. Upon installation, I still had the F9C4 fault, so more digging. The relay was functioning, so over the the fuse block I went to find that F17, labeled as ECU (unswitched )/Service Advisor Fuse on the schematic, was not getting power. I scrubbed the fuse block contact with the meter probe thinking it might just be oxdation and found that 12V was present only when I pushed it in one direction. I pushed on the wire bundle under the block and out popped two corroded wires that feed F17 and an empty slot. It looked like corrosion from acidic flux, but who knows. I tried to get a new contact from the loacal dealer and they insistied I had to buy 45 of them, so I waited another week for the internet to produce that part, only to recieve the wrong contact, so I uncrimped and reinstalled the old one. All is well again for the moment. Anyone happen to know the actual part number for the fuse block terminals? The IPB is not real clear on this item. It's ATO/ATC fuse terminal, but more heavy duty that a standard automotive part. I'd prefer to use an exact replacement, but can put a car part in if all else fails.
What, are they an automotive dealership...LOL?? That is what auto dealers do. Our new parts manager came from the auto dealership world and he tried selling the packaged quantities to the customers and the shop. Senior management got wind of it (mechanics in the shop complained) and told the parts manager if a customer wants one terminal (bolt, nut, etc), then that is what you sell him. Needless to say the PM was not happy but the customers and the techs are.
Ha. My son is a tech at a dealership. He refers to parts as the “assisted living facility.” In this case, it was the local branch of a large dealer in the area. This is not my first rodeo w/ them. I wanted to use new o-rings for the reinstall of a cylinder I had repacked. The service manager told the parts clerk what I needed and then she proceeded to look in a kit behind the counter and pronounced that they didn’t have any...don’t even carry them. While surprised that they didn’t have what is probably the most common o-ring in the entire line, I figured “eh, it’s and o-ring; I can find one somewhere.” That was also a stupid assumption, as trying to explain 90 durometer to the other local shops turned out to be an equally large challenge. The closest real hydro shop is at least an hour in any direction. On a hunch, I looked up the part number and called the same dealer location. She said, “we have 24 of them.”