Iam in the process of pulling my 4/53 turbo/blower engine out of my grapple skidder. I plan on putting a rebuilt kit in her, I believe it comes with new pistons, cylinder liners , and bearings and gaskets. I plan on having the valves ground also, I understand I will have to have someone reset the rack. My question is if I am only pulling the heads off and dropping the oil pan and putting in new liners ect. Can I get it out of time ? Or any other scenero's that could arise. I will keep all the push rods in order where they came out anything else. Iam sure some will say not to tackle it when you don't know much about it, but how else do you learn ? Also I am bringing it out with the tork converter on it. Theres three hydrawlic pumps on the back of the bell housing. Dose the tork converter have a ring gear on the out side of it ? And dose the gear pumps mash up with the ring gear so they turn or is there gears in between the bell housing and tork converter ?
What kind of skidder? The torque convertor and pump drives will be specific to the machine, not the engine. If it's a Franklin, I should be able to help you. If it's something else, I may be able to help you. If it's a Franklin, give me the machine serial number.
Absolutely yes! But it is a process that requires some special tools.I would bet some old timer would be glad to walk you through the steps.(wow I just called my self a old timer)
It's a 1983 Treefarmer it was being built in Canada then Franklin bought them out and the skidder was moved half built to North Carolina I believe. When I bought parts for it over the years it's about impossible for the dealer to figure out what I have and a fellow will get wrong parts nine chances out of ten then I have to send them back and try to explain what I have to them over the phone again. The way the dealer explained to me that they would buy parts from different companys who ever had the best bargain so alot of times a number of companys for the same part.
From an old timer. I dont think I would want to tackle a job like this for the first time. Im mainly talking about the engine rebuild. You really need someone with experience with these engines. There are a bunch of stuff you can over look, if you dont know these engines. I would try to find a retired Detroit old timer and get him to help you or get the person that is going to set your rack and governor to help with the piston/liners/head/torques/etc. If you dont get the correct linners, that could be bad. I forgot the quote ATCO has about mechanics, but its very true especially in this case Maybe find another logger and see who he uses for his repairs Good Luck
Autocar..... grow some and get in there and rebuild it...... someone built it, someone can rebuild.... you need some feeler guages and an injector timing pin, but if your industrious you can build your own timing pin.... just get your self a manuel for it and follow the instructions, its like baking a cake. lol.. only you can't eat it when ur done....bah hah aha
Kinda nice to have the Detroit ring compressor as well.
Ah, yes , my age is catching me...... the ring compressor is a must.... thanks for reminding me Atco!!! (he didn't remember either, he looked it up..lol)
No doubt a loadin sleeve makes the job a walk in the park ...oh and one more thing you'll need a golf ball for your piston pin plugs ...a golf ball works good to install these plugs..
Looked it up in the "manuel" I'll bet?... http://www.iespell.com/ ...:tong And fast... bah hah aha... ef, ef, ef. OCR... lol
Don't forget the oil dry, after all it is a Detroit. They have been known for their dust control.
Sorry you old sawed off idiot stick...I didn't have to look it up. I, unlike you, happened to remember it. Ha! :avid
I have a manual on it, I guess time will tell. Right now I am building a fram out of 6x12 I beams to hang my chain fall on. My ground resting I beams are 7 feet then Iam welding 12 footers as up rights. Then cutting the shape of the top crossing I beam then slipping though the two up rights, the crossing I beam will be 11 feet so it will pass the tires on the skidder. Then bolting it in place so I can tear it I have to pull the front end off and the radator will be attached to all of this. Interesting project I have always liked challenges. Thanks for everyones opinions
I made myself a fram to hang my three ton chain fall on . I made it out of 6x10 H beams seven foot with rollers on them the uprights are eleven foot six inches and the width is ten feet and the skidder fits right between the H irons. Ive pulled the front iron housing and radiator all in one peace. I have all the pumps unbolted, linkage unhooked and all wire and a few other things unhooked. I got the bolts up front out and just have the six, three on each side holding it in there. With a little luck I will get it out tomarrow and will make a fram to bolt it in so I can tear it down.
Keep posting your progress, I have rebiult a lot detroits in my past life, mabey I can throw some tips your way when the time comes. If you dont take out the crank, cam, or idler gear you don't have to worry about timeing. But I would just to regasket the end plates, they were notorius leakers. If you can find Copper coat brush on gasket adheasive it works best on detroits.
I've never had a frame or stand to rebuild those on. It sure would have been nice but usually I blocked them on the motor mounts to pull the top ends and then set the block back on the bell housing and unloaded the pistons, liners, front cover cams and balance shafts. Then its upside down on some blocks to pull the bell housing and crankshaft. Re-assemble in reverse order. Have fun.
I know someone who rebuilt a 6V53 years ago, and then found out that he had installed the rings upside down. He was not a happy camper.
That is funny.My old 6V53 in my 73'Jimmy 10 wheel dump took care of the dust in many a gravel bank. Normal oil changes are really overated for these barking boat anchors.
You guys are braver than me, I saw a 8v71 turn into green shrapnel once and now I stay as far away as possible. I still listen real close every time I hear one start to see if it drops to an idle. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
I got it out of the skidder today I sure hope Ive got all the hoses marked there's three pumps and a ton of hose. I started a steel fram to hold it up right and I want to make covers where the pumps mounted and plug all the hyd. hose coupling then I want to high pressure wash it. Theres a Clark tork converter and theres also two hyd. pumps that mount on it. Once I get it cleaned I will post the model number and maybe someone can give me a little imput on how it works. Grandkobelco I am sure I will have a few questions thanks for answering my post.
Back in the 70's I was a trainee machanic at a gravel company, a old michigan laoder came screeming down the haul road at more than top rpm in reverse with the bucket draging down the road so he could controll it, he parked in front of the repair shop climbed out and ran screeming " it wont shut off, I cant shut it off"!!. A very old machanic, as calm as you can beleive, walked out to the loader with a crecent wrench in his pocket and one hex at a time took loose the fuel line at the fuel fillter. As the engine slowly died he said" that'el killer" Many years later when I was overhauling 71 seires for a trucking company my favoret part was adjusting the high rpm, evan the secretarys would leave the office LOL!
Gawd don't nobody tell him he should change the main bearings at this time.... Or tell him that you can in-frame a Detroit 4-53...... Or buy the cylinders and pistons already loaded.... Or instead of getting the valves done exchange the head for a rebuilt.....
No kidding, most Jimmies are done in-frame, at least the ones I've seen. Even 12V71's. They always send the heads out and exchange them with rebuilt ones, and yes, the pistons come fully assembled with rings.
I've done a 4-53 in-frame, but that's only because it didn't need anything else, had no front axle in the way of removing oil pan, and...it didn't need crank bearings as Scott S suggested should be done at this time in his post. You can't replace crank bearing with engine still attached to something on the flywheel.
You can't just spin them out like a 3406 or Cummins? Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Where do you get cylinders and pistons already loaded? And if you do how do you get the connecting rod attached since the 4-53 is a trunk style piston not a crosshead like say the 8v92. I currently have 13 detroits thats counting the 4 series 60's in the trucks, quite possibly might be a character flaw. I've overhauled just about everyone I've had since '75 and the 4-53 and 6v-53 are probably my favorite 2 strokes. I always tried to stay away from exchange heads on the 53's they are not hard to do a valve job on and one should change the injector tubes anyway (the coppers). Without knowing if an exchange head has new valves your just taking a big gamble since the 53's have a habit of the valves coming apart. I always used to change the keepers too, saw too many catastrophic failures when brother was with the detroit dealer here in town.
I have in-inframed several Clark skidders and a couple of carrier mount log loaders with 4-53's, you can spin out the shells easily with-out disconnecting the flywheel. For most skidders getting the front end out of the way is easy, disconnect the drive-line and brake lines(if any) pull the center pins, then put blocks under the blade and lift the skidder up to get enough clearance.
When you purchase the pistons "loaded" in effect you are exchanging the rods. The pistons come already in the sleeves with the rods hanging out the bottom. You just take the old pistons and sleeves out, remove the old o-rings, clean the grooves, lubricate the new o-rings, orientate the new rods properly and slip the assembly in place. Just a note, I used to cut a couple of short pieces of rubber hose to slip over the rod bolt studs to be sure I didn't mar the crank throws.
Well, where do you get loaded kits I've bought hundreds and hundreds of kits and rods none were ever assembled. Believe me with a brother working for detroit diesels west coast dealer I've seen whats available, or are they aftermarket parts, I can tell you some problems with those. After seeing some of the reman parts you really need to check any rebuilt part very carefully, warranty or not it only covers the part not the damaqe to your engine or labor. The only reason to change rods is if the wrist pin bearing are worn and they very rarely cause problems, if they are bad you had better be looking deeper for other issues. And if you have a bearing failure always change the oil cooler core no ifs or buts.
I used to use Pacific Diesel in Portland, the shop loaded the sleeves for a small charge. A great time and headache savings.
Pacific Diesel now Pacific Power down here does'nt even have anyone that knows what a two-stroke is let alone how to work on one. Sad to say the two-strokes day is gone sadder the series 60 is also. How do you check liner heighth with kits assembled? Pain in the a--.