I have a deutz f4l 1011 issue is push rod adjustment on rocker needs be threaded out so much the lock nut won't go on. All the others seem to lift and adjust well. This seems to be missing like 3/8 inch of lift when closed. Any common issues with these I'm thinking it could only be cam or broken lifter. I compared push rods are all are the same lengths.
Maybe a bent valve? Did you check free height?
With pushrod installed-bar over and check lift against the rest. Possibly cam lobe is gone/worn. Not too many items to cause issue.
Or roller tappet has gone kaput
I removed unit injector pumps and I could see valve lifter is broken. Looks like I'll be removing engine from stump grinder and ripping it down. Looks like a time consuming task.
The things are actually pretty simple to work on. We have a handful of them in our motorized carriages. I'm trying to remember the name of the place where we got the parts, I believe it was diesel parts direct and it was about half price of the local distributor.
No better time to service the timing belt
Yeah I got the new timing belt and tensioning pulley only thing I don't have is tensioner. What is the cheapest option for that?
We have an f2l 2011 in a 4” water pump. A bit noisy, but sure good on fuel. Just had to keep an eye on the tin air shroud as mice would nest there!
It's funny how many guys take part of that tin shrouding off and throw it away if it comes loose or rattles around. That's like running your car out of water.
Right, wouldn’t be a good idea to remove! Even on our little 2 cylinder it’s amazing how much air movement there is upwards between the cylinders.
Seems fairly simple. These engines are air cooled. Anything to do with air is important. If its there from the factory, leave it alone.
What's the cheapest belt tensioner to use for these?
Do you have the timing pins?
Yes I have the pins.
How does camshaft come out? I removed retaining bolt from rear. Does it pull out the front?
I replaced Cam. Timed engine. It's starts and runs but cylinder one and 2 cause engine to smoke. If I disconnect the injector lines on those two cylinder smoke mostly clears and it sounds about the same. I did a compression test and both tested above 400 psi cold. I put in new injectors and pumps as well. Any ideas what this could be.
Have you tried moving the 2 injectors from the bad holes to the good holes? If the problem remains, try swapping the unit pumps. I think those only use a simple gasket, not a shim. Keep track of what you swap from where, so you can identify what effected a change or not. Good luck.
How do you adjust fuel timing? I checked cam to crank and it's right on. Can the fuel pumps be shimmed with thinner gasket or none? It seems like they need to fire a little quicker so engine won't smoke. Any suggestions?
Di you see any shims of different thickness beneath the pumps? I wouldn't mess with pump timing unless all other avenues don't shake out. How did chasing injectors turn out? Change, no change?
How do you adjust fuel timing? I checked cam to crank and it's right on. Can the fuel pumps be shimmed with thinner gasket or none? It seems like they need to fire a little quicker so engine won't smoke. Any suggestions?
I did swap them all cylinders seem to fire but some better than others. I did compression check again all were 400 psi or more. The engine seems to run ok just the smoke I am concerned with now. I also replaced all injectors with new
You can sync the pumps by loosening the retaining nuts just a hair and rotating the pump ccw or cw till you hear the cylinder fire with the others. Your supply and return manifold will make this difficult but not impossible. Asking again, did moving the injectors make any change?
Evidently, a bit of lag in the responses posting. I would try method mentioned before playing with pump timing. Had a couple customers thought they were gonna get " mo powah" wound up with melted pistons and scored holes.
When I swapped the pumps it didn't seem to make much difference. By turning the pumps that just adjust fuel amount current?
Up and down changes timing. Side to side changes throttle position for each cylinder
I'm getting closer to getting this figured out I synced each pump while engine was in full rev and got it to little smoke. Still seems like it smokesa bit much. Anyway to determine shim height or possible to run with no shim? I think my head gasket may be different thickness than original which could change the timing? I'm thinking of possible running with thinner shim so injectors fire sooner. At low rpm there is no smoke.
I'm still working on this when I replaced the broken lifter I switched the cam from a deutz bf4m1011 thinking they were the same. Are these different? I thought only diff was external radiator.