The time has come to put the engine back int he Bobcat- If I can get it set right. History on machine: I got it as a project where the engine was already out and in the bucket. Would not turn but relatively complete. Got it home, pulled oil pan so I could straighten it, bottom end of engine looked clean and no metal in oil pan. Straightened and derusted oil pan, zinc plated and painted. Got engine turning after removing injectors and putting diesel in cylinders and bought new starter to replace missing one. Had to clean and test injectors as none were spraying correctly. One fuel pump was broken and due to overpriced and lacking parts, had to weld the end of the plunger to get it working. Spun engine with injectors outside and all pulse fuel evenly. Homemade "pop" tester showed all injectors within pressure range. Timing belt idler was rusted solid and did not move when engine was turned so I removed it and separated it, installing a new ball bearing. Cleaned with acid, zinc plated and welded back together. Timing belt was not removed but I retensioned by moving idler back to old position noted by rust mark on timing cover. Installed belt drive housing, flywheel and new starter. Started engine and noted some issues. Engine runs after one crank cold with the aid of glow plugs. Without glow plugs it takes a 2-3 cranks cold. Starts up and smokes a big black cloud, then idles with surging. The governor seems to move the fuel pump control rack to the point of stalling, then it lets off allowing the engine to speed up before repeating the process. If I take out the stop solenoid and hold the rack out it will idle smooth. Once it runs for a min or two it will hold a constant speed. The black smoke continues throughout the time it is running. I figured the cam timing was off as the crankshaft bolt was hardly tight on the timing belt gear and it may have retarded so I advanced it a bit, turning the engine by hand to feel for valve hitting. It cut the black smoke but seemed to give more clatter. Still idle acts wierd. I want to put this thing back in the Bobcat and get it out of my garage. However, I think the cam timing is off and need more info. Who has technical info on this deutz Bobcat 863 engine that can help me without having to buy overpriced parts or tools from Bobcat? Where can I buy a timing belt for this thing at a good price?
I had some luck at local truck parts shop and got belt, dont tell them you need it for bobcat, tell them you need for deutz bf4m1100 engine but double check on valve cover, i might recall it wrong
you need the timing pins from the dealership to put it in time a belt tensioner tool that hooks over the belt the wrench for the cam gear and the instructions from bobcat for the correct tension i think its 3.5 lbs then roll it around 4 timnes and re check it at 8 or 9 lbs but you need the pins to get it in time the belt kist should only be ithink a hundred dollar bill but you need all the tools to put it on the kit bobcat sells is the belt new tensioner and allen bolt
If someone had the measurements of the pins I could make them easily myself. As for the tensioner, I am sure building one could be accomplished as well. Have tried to find the belt at local suppliers but no luck yet. Any good online sources anyone knows of?
Look in the yellowpages under deisel engines to find a duetz dealer. The one I use specializes in statoinary and marine engines. Give them the model # and they will have one. Pins are worth buying. The tensioner is a measuring device and spendy to buy.$6-700. I rented mine for $25 per day from dealer. Scott
just spend the hundred bucks from the dealer and problem solved comes with the new idler bolt and belt all need to be replaced anyways not just the belt
So it costs 100 dollars for the belt and labor? The problem is the hassle of dragging that engine all the way to the dealer to do something that should be done by me right here. Sticking in a Cummins 4bt seems better and better every day.......
OK the quoted price is 184.00 and labor is extra. The dealer says they do not have the timing pins in stock and would have to order them. There is a waiting period for repairs. Why does this stuff have to have limited parts availability? Why not just have standard parts you can get from autozone?
Before you put that engine back in unscrew the sump fitting and check there are no hairline cracks behind the dowty washer i had to remove the same engine and its a tight fit! the oil would only leak when it got hot would hate for you to put it back in and then the sump leaks.