I'm not sure if anybody has posted or seen this study done by the folks at Diesel Place. I stumbled across it on TractorByNet. I have been using Power Service, but may try the Opti-Lube after looking the study over. What say you? http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
Wow, that's pretty cool. An actual study to determine which brand fuel additive performs best, and most striking...which perform worst.
Interesting. Some say different http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/alternative-fuels-additives-oils-lubricants/108923-opti-lube-xpd.html
Additive.......... Nothing on "old school" ATF..... or did I miss it?
I use Lucus
Keep in mind that this study only tests for lubricity. which leaves out detergency,dispersents,rust inhibitors, and more.
Power Service stuff..... then some kind of algae stuff... it's really expensive according to the mechanic
wallmart supertech two stroke oil
Nothing .... should I? In a '79 International D-358? I purchase on-road Mobil Diesel Fuel from a large busy station that moves a lot of fuel. :usa JV
I would. That system was designed for yesterday's fuel. I'd consider a full package, ie cetane boost, certainly lubricity, detergency etc.
I don't know ... all of Mobil diesel fuels meet ASTM D 975, which is exactly what the service manual (printed 1981) calls for. Perhaps the ASTM number hasn't changed, but the standards have :usa JV
Dramatically.
The older engines really like 2% biodiesel, I think the lubricity helps the pump and injectors work better. Slight power increase, fuel economy increase. No noticeable power change on EFI engines.
ATF Here:drinkup
i work in a trade school and we have done lots of testing with canola and biodiesel. canola oil has a higher lubricity value then diesel, since the creation of altra low sulfur fuels injecters and pumps are not getting the barrier lube they need.( sulfur is not a lubricator, the process to remove it from fuel reduces it lubricity). companys like standayne are saying 5% biofuel mixed with diesel will increase lubricity to a safe point again. there is no cetane in canola but from what i have see canola will ignite sooner then diesel, which in its self is kinda neat your advancing fuel timing with no pump adjustment. Canola is a very good cleaner try some on your hands next time their dirty, some people say after using canola or biofuel there filters plug up.. Its true canola cleans all the tarnish carbon and gunk from diesel fuel systems after a couple tanks it is a good idea to change filters. so as an additive??? cleans,lubes,increases cetane,and i didnt mention but will greatly reduce emissions sounds like a pretty good cheap additive to me dont be surprised if that magic bottle on the walmart shelf claiming to be a diesel cure all is nothing more then canola with a dash of this or that speaking of additives engine oils have taken a big hit, the emission laws say reduce zinc to prevent catalytic failures.Zinc is the last bit of protection before metal to metal contact, now the levels in most oils are so low that protection level is gone. This barrier is very important for the life of valvetrains, injectors driven by a cam etc.. (places were you would see heavy loading). If i was buying a oil additive i would look for something thats main claim was to increase zinc content. the one i use is zddp in my hotrod tractors and truck anyway thats my 2cents thanks gary
Wow had not even heard about this, wonder if its the same here in Aus? I was handed a gallon of Wynns diesel treatment the other day, mainly due to a bug problem, but its supposed to solve a bunch of other issues. Worked really well.
I'm a member at the DP.We have a good one going right now on this newest,baddest additive called Monster Diesel.The vendor there has promised us some good hard data real soon.In the mean time,I either run Schaeffer or Howes additives
I was using Raycor performance additive but now I'm using Shaffer diesel treat 2000 . The Shaffer is cheaper and you only use 2 oz. for 50 gallons on the raycor it was 8oz. My mechanic said my engine is the only one he hasn't had to pull and clean the EGR valve. So it seems to be working well. When fuel went up to almost 5.00 I found straight hydraulic oil runs pretty good ! Plenty of lubricity as well .
What percentage or volume to volume ratio would you suggest for the canola oil to diesel fuel?
With todays "dry" ULSF diesel one really needs to use some sort of additive to aid in lubricity for injector pumps AND injectors,fuel manufactures do add some additives to combat this issue but most time it's inadequate. Bio fuels actually are very good for lubricity one could use a 50/50 mix and be good but may want to change over to a additive mix come cold weather. I use Bio fuel/mix,Stanadyne,Schaeffer's Diesel treat 2000 products to aid in lubricity all work very good. Power service is a joke don't waist your money.
I found this study on another forum most additives discussed in this thread were tested. PDF file was to big to post. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=2484707&postcount=27
Is the govt. more realistic know? When the govt first started testing years ago any trace of red dye would get a huge fine. What about the RED DYE in ATF or Marvel Mystery oil ? I have read where the FEDS went after people for having trace am outs in their fuel samples One company was put out of business - and it turned out the tanker had hauled some dyed fuel a couple of loads before delivering the road fuel I have used Marvel in the off road stuff , but not the over road trks. because of these articles
Diesel Additives are the best to improve the performance of your vehicle engine. Diesel fuel additives are specially formulated substances that are mixed into diesel fuel in order to enhance its functionality. Using these additives for your vehicle is more beneficial as fuel quality varies in different countries. Diesel additives have various advantages. ____________________ synthetic lubricants
+2 1oz. per gallon.
Started using Howes towards the end of December. Have put on around 2000 miles on dump truck. I have seen about .5 MPG improvement in that time. Not drastic but it is enough to justify cost of using.
Maryn International's Gen49D has a HFRR score of 353mm, blend ratio of 1250:1 / Dose Oz per 26 gallons of 2.66 and a MSRP of $1.88 per 26 gal tank - http://maryngroup.com/images/productinfo/gen49dinfo.pdf
If you buy good fuel you should not need anything. Somebody mentioned good old ATF. A quart to 100 gallons or so keeps things clean and lubricated. I would go that route if you are in need of something. The additives that the "snake oil salesmen" are pushing can go up to $125.00 a gallon and better but they tell you a gallon will treat 1,000 gallons of fuel and increase your mileage by 20.0%. Ya, sure and I will respect you in the morning too. Canola, also known as "rape seed oil" is the oil of choice for deep frying food. Around here I am turning out about 100 gallons of fuel per week made from reprocessed used deep fryer oil. When I say reprocessed, that is what I mean, not just strained and filtered. It is the most amazing stuff. Yes, it cleans out everything in the fuel system of the engine and you will have to change filters a time or two until everything gets cleaned up. But that happens if you start running very high concentrations of 50.0% or so. Start out at lower levels like 10.0% and work your way up. If your intension is to use it for improved lubrication go for a quart or so to 100 gallons of fuel. I don't know if it ignites quicker than regular Diesel fuel or not, but I have run it at 100.0% in my equipment and it works fantistic. Same power, same consumption or slightly less. Have been using it since 2006 here so have lots of history with it. Also burn reprocess canola in oil fired furnace in house and just purchased a boiler for in floor heat in my shop. Now, have got to going looking for more oil supply to make even more.
Greg, how does your engine run in the winter? I guess we'll have to call you a snake oil farmer?
Can't call me a farmer cause I don't farm. Snake oil maker? Well, that may stick. I find that a 50% canola oil fuel, reprocessed into fuel, and 50% of regular diesel works pretty good. The canola made into diesel will start to jell up at about 10 degrees F or there about. I have read where that is caused by a bit of residual moisture from the water washing process of making biodiesel out of canola oil. I have switched to a dry filter media now but have no winter experience with it to speak of yet.
In our modern common rail,20K+ PSI systems,you are just fooling yourself if you think ATF and 2 stroke is helpful as a diesel additive.Neither one was ever intended for such use.Newer ATF's are loaded with detergents and friction modifiers.That is fine for a tranny--NOT in a modern,sophisticated diesel engine to be burned.Maybe years ago with older mechanical injectored engines and ''simpler'' ATF's,there was some advantage as a ''cleaner'' of sorts,but not today.2 stroke will add some lubricity to diesel for sure but at what cost?It has been proven to leave deposits on injectors and again,same as ATF,there's some detergents in them that were only intended to be blended with gas.The small cost of a good ''official'' diesel additive added to every tank with this crappy dry ULSD IMHO far outweighs the harm that's caused inside our diesels in the long term vs.using nothing or some kind of witches brew.I like and use Schaeffer's on every fill.
Hi Greg. I would like to know more about how you process the used fryer oil. Thanks.
bump.
Just asking, but why should I use your product for lubricity, rather than Walmart 2 stroke in my fuel.? For a stabizer, anti gel, moisture reducer/disapater, I have been very happy with PRI-D. What product do you feel surpasses PRI-D.
In my pickup, I run 1 oz per gal wally world tw-c3 2 stroke, then I about 6-8 oz of power service Grey bottle in summer. I had run other additives with no luck. The power service anti - gel additive the white bottle actually works unlike the others I've used. In my tlb I'll run a little of the same additives. When I fill my storage tank I put a bottle of diesel stabil, bottle of power service, and some 2 stroke oil. I've never had premature injector wear on anything.
Glad to say I don't have to, because where I am right now we have 2% sulphur (2000ppm) in our fuel instead of the 15ppm of ULSD - and no, before anyone asks the 2000ppm is NOT a typo. Lubricates fuel systems a treat .............. A mate of mine who's working in West Africa at the moment has 3500ppm sulphur in his fuel.
I have been using power service and standyne for some time on both equipment and diesel pickups and i have to say i am happy with the product picked up a few mpg and quiets the engine down. Problem with atf as additive is that it actually cleans too good and will lead to problems.
Stanadyne Another vote for Stanadyne. I like the Blue bottle ( performance forumula). My reasoning is based on the idea that it is the only fuel additive I know of that is manufactured by a fuel system manufacturer. It is (or has) been recommended by a number of engine manufactures such as Cat, Deere, GM, and VW. Some people don't believe the Caterpillar endorsement, but I was working at a dealership when the TIM was released and I still have a copy. In the mid 90's when North America went to hydro cracked 500 PPM sulfur fuel, it played havoc on the distributor style pumps on the Cat 400 series backhoes With the Perkins engines. The Stanadyne worked great. Lots of guys like to put ATF in their tanks. I just don't get it. It has a bunch of stuff in it that wasn't meant to be burned or passed through modern fuel injection equipment. Sure, a little ATF isn't going to harm an old-school low pressure fuel system, but I sure don't think it's a good idea to run it through a expensive set of modern Bosch Pizio nozzles.
This thread was started 5 years ago, anybody still have the same fuel(in a bulk tank) they were using then, that would be a real test
Agreed
Sales rep I talked to my fuel guy and they are using schaeffers. We have had a few problems but I think it's more I ring then gel. Was told to use hotline.
You'd be the first in he country to have issues due to gelling with Schaeffer's. That sounds pompous, but we just haven't had any issues across all states. Freezing from water in the tanks is sometimes an issue or poor blending.
As mentioned a 5 year old thread and still going Brother in law is a trucker and swears by Lucas, I don't use any of it, IMO its all snake oil. Now adding Sulphur for the old engines I would go for that
I agree , I don't use any of it either. The biggest thing is keep the water drained out. The guy I get my fuel from told me they put additives in the fuel for winter service at the bulk plant.
ALL fuel jobbers North of ...say the Mason Dixon Line put anti-gel additives and/or #1 for their winter fuel. Year around Premium diesel treatments added by jobbers is much spottier.
I still stand by Opti lube XPT. Our 250 gallon storage tank had "summer" diesel fuel, filled in September. Opti lube added at that time. In December, it was 2 degrees F, and our 1988 case 680L started fine after sitting for 2 months, did need a battery jump. Our 1997 hitachi excavator also started and ran fine. Winter fuel in the tank now, treated at .5 oz per gallon diesel, with opti lube XPT. We also use it in a CAT C10 dump truck, CAT d3b Dozer, ford 3400, Perkins 4 cylinder, and 2014 GMC 3500. The anti gel and lubricity properties, IMHO, make this the best additive available, and will continue until a different product is proved better by an indepentant study. Leaves out a lot of products, doesn't it?
Schaeffer products in Australia We can supply Schaeffer diesel additives and grease/oils to Australia if you need any. Our website is www.premiumoil.co.nz Wow had not even heard about this, wonder if its the same here in Aus? I was handed a gallon of Wynns diesel treatment the other day, mainly due to a bug problem, but its supposed to solve a bunch of other issues. Worked really well.
I have had an increase in distributor pump problems in the last 4 years so I started adding 1 gallon of 15/40 or straight 10 engine oil per 600 gallons of fuel . It is hard to say wheather or not it helps but I figured it cost naf all and couldn't do any harm . The thing is that the last two engine heads I removed had a build up of a cement like material (similar texture and colour) built up around the injectors more so ,but on all the head and around the top of the piston . One piston had so much the outline of both valves were plane to see. Is this the diesel or is it ash from the oil as it is not a low ash oil ? Is there much ash in cannolla oil ? or vegetable oil in general . Would cheap and cheerful supermarket vegetable oil be good enough ? You see I just love to be odd .
Why vegetable oil instead of biodiesel? Surely you have biodiesel available, right? As bad as biodiesel if for turning to gunk, I would imagine raw vegetable oil would be even worse. Also, what sulfur level is your fuel and how long has it been like that? We have 15 parts per million since 2007, so the round of problems from that changeover have mostly faded. Sorry, I can't help you with the ash questions.
I don't know the amount of sulphur in the fuel we currently use but I think it is the last stop before ultra low which is also available . The sulphur content has dropped in stages over the last ten years or so . The fuel I use should include 5% biodiesel but when tested it averages around 5 but varies from 2 to 7 . Biodiesel on its own is not available near me . The gunk can be a big problem in damp old Ireland but only if the fuel is standing for 6 weeks + from my own expierence . At between €1 and €1.50 per litre , just to add 1L direct in to the machine tank when filling and our fills averaging 200L ,sure what harm can it do .
This is called "coking" its the incompletely burned fuels or cooked fuel that builds up around the injector. Oil can be the cause of it, its more likely a fuel issue though.
i use all schaeffers in everything couldnt ask for better results