I have MF135 with a 3 cylinder Perkins diesel. In the past it would idle a little faster after getting hot (1000 RPM) but today it would only come down to 1300 RPM. Normal idle is just under 800 RPM. Is this something to be concerned about?
Yes Dave.. Your gonna have to take the top cover off & free-up the metering valve.. BEFORE you do.. get a mini kit off ebay for $12.00US.. it contains> 4 throttle/shutoff shaft orings, 1 top cover gasket & the 2 fiber washers that are under the TC nuts.. OR a FULL gasket kit P# 7135-110 for about $20.00-30.00.. I walked a fella thru one yesterday on another site.. Just google>> CAV throttle shaft leak.. I have all these parts, but for 12.00 & free shipping{ebay} it isn't worth my time to package them up & take them to the Post Office.. it ya know what I mean.. I saw some on there yesterday for 9.00 BUT 12-13.00 shipping.!!!
Thanks pumpguy. I didn't find your thread but there is a bunch of info on it. I might have to take the loader side frame off to be able to get at everything and see what's going on.
just a thanks to the pumpguy on helping people.
I did it yesterday thru a P.Msg..on another site. I'd be happy to do the same.. Its been done ON THIS SITE about 10x.. {Top cover leak} I tried to get Admin. to put the P#'s of the seals & gaskets in a "sticky" so others can find the info w/ a click of a button, but they decided against it, fearing copyright infringement. Hell, just use the search function & type> top cover leak. Or.. throttle shaft leak.. I haven't tried it but it might work?? You haven't mentioned a leak but the info contained in those other threads will get you where you need to go.. removing the top cover. & even tho yours aren't leaking.. they will, sorry to say.. so replace the orings while the cover is off.. Just a little tip from your Uncle Mike..Lol
Thanks again. I used it today and it wasn't as bad but it might be leaking already. It was really dusty and the injection pump is covered in dust. I have a friend who's a really good diesel tech at a Ford dealer. He makes repairs look easy so I'll see if he'd be interested in doing it. It does look like I need to take the loader off. No sense working blind with the loader frame in the way. Is there a kit you can get at a Perkins dealer?
Don't try to get the parts from Perkins.. They'll laugh at you & tell you to, just BUY A PUMP.. I told you what the P# are.. start searching.. There isn't a P# for that "mini kit".. its just something somebody threw together & is selling as a "Top cover kit".. The pump removal is EASY.. No REAL TIMING to speak of.. There is a timing line on the corner of the mounting flange on the pump.. that lines up w/ a mark or DEGREE marks on the engine block.. MAKE NOTE OF IT.. Then there are 3 bolts in front, under a small cover, holding the pump driveshaft onto the drive gear.. remove those 3 bolts.. The gear should stay in the engine but MARK THEM> JUST IN CASE. {paint pen}
I went to the Perkins dealer and they referred me to the authorized CAV dealer. I had to get the complete kit. It was $61 Canadian. A lot of extra parts but still a relatively cheap repair. Curious how you squish the seals for the safety wire?
Authorized dealers have special pliers w/ stamps in them, so when you squish the lead, the stamp letters transfer.. & an authorized shop can tell WHO did the pump last.. You don't need to install the wires.. they are for warranty/tamper purposes only. They don't HOLD the screws like safety wire does. BUT if you wanna use them, use regular pliers to squish it. Did Perkins try to sell you a pump?? see post #7..
Actually the Perkins dealer said they were unsure why there is no cross over part numbers to Perkins. They figured it must have something to do with the original agreement CAV had with manufacturers. They had to go to the authorized CAV dealer for injection pump parts as well. There's a zillion more parts in the kit but shipping on bringing in just the parts needed probably would have cost more so I just got the kit. If it lasts another 53 years I won't have to worry about it again. The 1st kit he kit he pulled out I noticed was 7135-111 so then he changed it for 7135-110. Not sure what the difference is but looked like the 110 had 1 extra gasket?
All the advance gaskets & orings are in the 110 kit.. No advance on the bottom of some pumps, some are fixed timing.. & it doesn't have a front seal either. {111 kit} I only use the 110 kit, just because of the front seal thing.. & theres ALWAYS somebody who has a leaking advance oring or gasket on the bottom of a pump & I that way can GIVE them away.. The cost difference between the 2 kits is very minimal, like $1.00 & a front seal costs 5.00 seperately.. SO I ALWAYS spend the extra $1.00.. for the 110 kit. I was a authorized Perkins & a CAV dealer, so I knew about the kit thing.. That's another thing.. a lot of people go to "Perkins" for things that THEY DIDNT make.. just because its on their engine doesn't mean they made it.. & if you find out who actually made "the part", you can get it from them, at a much lower price.. Just like a Kubota shut-off solenoid [junk].. if you get it from Kubota it costs 280.00.. If you get it from the pump manuf. it cost 50.00...LOL.!!!
I could have called some tractor dealers or other injection places to see if they might have just the parts I need but $65 after tax is pretty minor compared to the last repair... $1754 to fix the bucket cylinders on the Cat! I've came to conclude that any repair under $100 I got away lucky.
Just an update. Had a mechanic friend come out and got all the O-rings changed. Was still idling too fast at about 1200 RPM and then the shut off didn't work so lifted the cover back up to make sure the shut off was connected properly. Thought it might have something to do with the high idle. Started it up again and still idled too fast (1100 RPM) but the shut off worked. He backed out the idle stop a couple turns to get it to idle where it should and seems to be good. Revs to about 2300 RPM max. I think normal is 2250 RPM but who knows how accurate the tach is and 50 RPM no load I don't think will hurt anything. I never run it full throttle anyway unless I'm doing some real heavy work or driving down the road. It appears to fixed. Just wondering if it's normal to have to back off the idle stop after changing the O-rings?
Yes its normal. the fuel that was leaking out is now being used.. & no more air in the system.. How did it "look" under the cover?? any signs of water/ rust or dirt?
Thanks pumpguy, you were a great help in getting this fixed! Looked pretty clean under the cover. Tiny bit of crud but easily wiped out. Maybe have a little more power now. I did notice over the last several years the idle was slowly creeping up.
The "clean" part is good.. 1 more thing before we button this project up tho.. The part of the lever that hits the screw will bend.. it should be straight down.. Some get bent in & some get bent out.. it just depends on how you have your linkage stops set.. IF your JAMMING IT into hi speed, it'll bend out & you'll experience a higher than normal low idle.. You can easily bend it back straight w/ a vise & hammer.. Naturally, it has to come off the pump, but its only a 5/16 nut.. Good job on the repair..
I've never slammed it to full throttle. I think it was pretty straight. Idling, the tach jumps between 700 and 800 RPM. When you add throttle it is smoother and the needle doesn't jump around.
I used the tractor a bunch on the weekend and it's not leaking but doing some odd things. Cold idles properly, revs just a touch fast. Hot idles too fast(1000 RPM) if you slowly slow it down but if you rev it back up and slow it down to idle fast it is the proper idle speed <800. It revs about 2400 RPM hot though. The idle screw has the bolt and lock nut and is straight forward to adjust. The high speed stop though has about an 1 1/4" long metal tube that is crimped over head of the adjusting bolt. How do remove this tube to set the high speed? Sorry can't post a pic.
Some are held on by a wire seal.. just cut the wire & pull off the cap.. .. if its actually crimped over, just use a pair of side cutters to pull it off.. I wouldn't mess w/ it.. its obvious you still have "gunk" in the pump.. the nameplate should have the max rpm stamped on it.. if not, post the pump # & i'll look it up real quick.. Next time it starts to idle to fast at low idle, get off the machine & LOOK at the throttle position ON THE PUMP.. is it actually touching the screw?? Try to move it w/ your finger to touch the screw.. maybe its your linkage.?? Did you get the nut tight enough on the shaft & lever on the pump?? They'll loosen up on ya..
According to the tractor specs. 2200 is max. idle. The idle stop was hitting the screw. I mostly run the tractor and tell anyone else they don't need to go over 2000 RPM. I wonder if some good fuel conditioner may help if there's gumming or something in the pump? There were no signs of rust but a few years ago I think I got some bad diesel with water in it (or someone dumped water in the tank). The filters were like a slurpee it was so bad and actually made the sediment bowl leak a bunch of fuel on the snow. That's how I knew something was wrong. Even in the past it would idle about 100 RPM faster when it was hot but I can live with that. Tractor starts right up and purrs and is super easy on fuel.