Any tricks I don't know about. Had more sand stick in my box today ( not a personal problem) than came out. Sand was wet and box was rusty from sitting. The box on the dump truck is getting pretty bad. I think I have to put a new bottom in it. Had I guy quote me $2000 to weld new bottom and fix up sides. A new dump box is around $13,000 so have to wait on that. Any one use plastic liners? How much are they and do they work. I do not haul black top. Any tricks for getting the loads to slid better? I was thinking that if I hauled some stone frist it would polish the bottom up a little.
I've been known to get out of the cab and beat on the underside of the floor with a big bar or hammer. Sometimes, stuff that's not too terribly sticky will come out with just that little bit of persuasion. (It goes without saying that if you're going to place yourself underneath the bed, a safety prop is necessary.)
( I see this all the time done with out any prop and it scares me. Every time I adjust the slack adjusters I have to remember to prop it up.
Once it's polished up, fluid film or diesel will help.
Stick a bed vibrator on it. :usa
I'm sure you probly already checked if the bed is going all the way up. Does it moan a little at the top or just get a little bouncy.If it's bouncy check your Hyd fluid probly low and it don't take much to make a big difference. If it don't moan or bounce the saftey stop maybe misadjusted .If you've already made sure it's topping out disregard this post.
Local company hauls copper concentrate in dump trailers for the company I work at. The stuff is corrosive so the liners didn't do anything. They had the local line-x dealer contact the head place and they came up with a special liner that is smooth but strong as heck. They have gotten their whole fleet done. Might be something to look into, wouldn't rust then either. :beatsme
I know that you can get 3/16th uhmv plastic, the white stuff that they use for pads on telehandlers and extend-a-hoes for about 3$ a square foot. I used to get it in 10' wide rolls that were 200' in length. We used it for lining feed mixers, bolted it down with stainless evevator bolts.
Rust is always a problem. If the bed is "polished" and all the way up and wet loads are still sticking, then the cheapest and best solution is a bed vibrator. It is not rocket science and you could even make one with little investment. This is where the half round demo beds shine. Loads rarely hang up in them.
weld chains in the bed where it is sticking
I like that Pullpan. Thats a pretty cool idea. :thumbsup
Her in Michigan they line sugar beet trucks with plastic. If it is wet the beets have mud in them and stick like crazy. The plastic really helps. Jerry
We had a 980 with chains in the bucket it didn't help much if any.
Weld chains in the bed of the truck so as the truck goes down the road the chains slap the bottom of the box? The box is going all the way up so thats ok. Any links to bed vibrators? any one use them? Do they work off of 12v Any links to bed liners? Any one use them? As always thanks for the help!:drinkup
http://www.decavibrator.com/v-trk.shtml http://www.navco-jvi.com/truck-vibrator/truck1.html Here ya go a place to start anyway. You can build a 12 volt fairly reasonable I've built a few and they work ok but they are no match for a good air vibrator.
I priced out a vibrator around $750 cash and carry. So a new bottom for $2000 could be the better choice.
Do you slap your tailgate a couple times when you dump? Usually gets a bunch out.
Try thumbtruck.com
Scratching it out with the excavator works for me. I've seen guys beat on the bottom of the box with the hoe to loosen the dirt.. Man I just cringe when I see that.
This is kinda rough on hyd.cyl's, hinges and the gate itself. Of coarse I get to repair a lot of dumps that go through this. It's not so bad on a single stage cyl. but on multi stage cyl's it's murder.
Ain't that gonna be a heck of a Goggle search result. I can see jmac with a roll of quarters droppin' 'em in the slot to clear each load..:laugh You'll have to name the truck "magic fingers"... Sorry jmac, I couldn't resist. Must be close to Friday Here's a couple links for liners: http://www.linersystems.com/default.htm http://www.quadrantepp.com/default.aspx?pageid=248
Gate is to heavy to slap by hand, to short to slap when I pull away from pile. I have done this when excavator is at the site, most of time it is not. I also hate doing it because I know it wrecks the box. Mine is a three stage hoist that already leaks oil. I just think that because the bottom is so wavy and I can't slap gate and the sand was so sticky that I had problems. I am going for the new bottom when my welder can do it. I will post pics when it is done. I also heard that vibrators break welds. I would try and weld myself but I know it won't look as good as his work. On Tuesday I actually had a customer sign me out and not use me after only 5 loads because my truck was so packed with topsoil. He did scrap it out with an excavator and it made me very nervous that he was going to bend something.
Orchard LOO!! MY wife called me today and said that I got some emails about box's, vibrators, wet stuff, and 12 or 24 volt. She was interested. :cool2
jmac, i just had a bottom put in one of our trucks . It was $1800. for 1/4" plate installed bottom and 8" up sides. This cured our sticking problem. The flatter you can get it the less grip the material has. Also a heated body will help dry the material enough to help the material release. Good luck
Sticky dump bodies... jmac,any dump trailer dealer will stock a vibrator. Ti-Brook in Brookville, Pa. for one. Various trailer dealerships across NY state would lead you in the right direction. They work good.The 12 volt ones are great; you can see your sidewalls pulsate as you hit the switch... Maybe when the money starts flowing it would be a good investment to have somebody glue a new floor in with the electric glue machine. Nothing makes slippery more slipperier than a nice shiny new steel floor, especially around the doghouse. I've owned several used aluminum dump trailers in the day, and a smooth floor rules. I tried plywooding them, quicksilver liners, etc. and they have their place in society, but a smooth floor if just hauling aggregates and fill, is sufficient. Heat is always nice too, if you're set up with heat.
Careful... :MY wife called me today and said that I got some emails about box's, vibrators, wet stuff, and 12 or 24 volt. She was interested. :cool2[/QUOTE] I don't think you should type all that stuff you just mentioned into a Google search box...unless you want to be sidetracked for a little while...:naughty :naughty :naughty Heck, if that stuff comes in 24 volt, I MIGHT BE INTERESTED...:notworthy :notworthy :notworthy
I'm not talking about ramming the truck around to get the gate to slap, rather when you start to pull away from the pile let the gate come over the pile and slam as you put your box down.
So you don't recommend the Squizzy method then??? ....this involves going backward at about 35 Mph with the dump body raised and......errr.....ummm ...well maybe some other time
In the winter I paint the inside of my box with "Hammerite" http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1524&familyName=Hammerite+Rust+Cap+Paint+%22Hammered+Finish%22+Cans Hammered finish paint. The paint will last through the winter when hauling snow and a load of P-rock now and then. this stuf is the sliperest paint I have found. I have tried a fiberglass coating with no better results. In the spring the winter coating last through about 3 months around the doghouse ware it counts. This is with hauling anything but asphault. After applying this stuf I only have to lift the box 2/3 of the way up for it to dump clean every time including wet clay. Durning the summer I have been know to recoat the front 1/4 of the box about 1 time a month. The price quoted in the link is a little higher then here but still not bad. The only way to apply this produce is with a 3" roller. it is to thick to brush or roll with a 9" one and should not be thined or you will be putting on 2 or more coats. This will work till you get a new floor. Dwan
I have a tri-axle dump. On some Army Corp of Engineers jobs, bedliners are required. I have a 1/4 inch black plastic liner. It is pretty durable, as I sometimes haul broken concrete in the truck. As far as price? Prices are allover the place. anywheres from $350.00 to $900.00 for a 16' bed. Vibrators are another option.(Which I have also tried) The liner is better for the price!:beatsme
Welcome to HEF Haulin'! :drinkup
DWAN I found this website while looking for something to help get the damp clay out of my 5 yard F600 dump truck. I don't have any problems with dry clay, but when it's damp, it just builds up and stays in the bed. After reading your post, I ordered a gallon of Hammerite gloss black from Jamestown Distributors. Service was good and there catalog has all sorts of interesting stuff, though some of it is a bit pricey. I cleaned my bed with water and a scrub brush, let it dry, and painted in on with a small roller. It's very sticky and aweful stuff to work with. I spent days trying to get it off of my hands. I put it on fairly thick, and still have almost half a gallon left. It was about a week until I could give it a try, so it was good and dry by then. My first load was of damp clay, and it slid right out. 200 loads later, and the clay is still sliding out nicely. I haven't seen any sign of wear as of yet, but with the results that I've had already, I'll do it again without hesitating!!!! Thank you DWAN, you really helped me out. Eddie
I think I need to try this stuff in my backhoe buckets.
It works every time for me! DIESEL!!! Spray a clean bed with some fuel and see the difference! Diesel and dirt/sand/asphalt seems to polish the bed floor sides and tail gate! Once you get it clean. its eaiser to keep her clean! BTW: I'm too old fat and crippled to climb in the bed, so I use a high pressure hose (like a fire hose) to get the crap out then I diesel her down!
We used to do that years ago rino, but then the environmental laws changed. In NY oiling your body is prohibited and doing so will give you a load of contaminated soil that can be very costly to rectify. Your suggestion will work, but I think the members should be aware of the possible consequences in doing so.
Like go to jail and don't collect $200. Here in the capitol of the largest park in the northern hemisphere if your equipment drips on the ground you can get in trouble. Still working on the oiling of the road with the AW graders 4/71. I need to keep a box of handy wipes with me at all times. LOL
"clean fill" is a new hot word here in IL, In order to take dirt, rock, concrete, black top for fill you have to have an IL EPA permit. We used to take waste off of jobs but have not and will not for quite some time. So if you have to pay to dump keep this in mind. Also rock & dirt, Access, or one of the trade mags have lots of liner company's in the classifieds.
Since I haul Hot mix asphalt (959 superpave latex) some ot the stickiest stuff you have ever seen. Tis worse than cosmoline paste AKA military rust preventive. or a grease consistancy of tuff coat! And it never fails. I get called to haul hot rock after hauling a load of puss clay! Around here all the landscapers and topsoil guy's use the quicksilver bed liners. We are experimenting with stainless steel on the bed floor! One of our 6 axle trucks has a ss bed floor! So far so good! Nothing seems to be sticking, and he uses less oil on the bed!
dump bed I know where you are coming from. One of my trucks, is washboarded bad, from previous owner. I plan on replating the bottom, it takes a little planning, if the frames are bent, but it can be done. I thought the $2000 quote was a little high, I use just regular steel, when replating, it cost about $110 per 4x8 sheet. It take me about 6-8 hrs to replate. I stick weld and weld 100% plus plug weld over each frame Now if he was going to cut the old plate out and repair the frames, thats not a bad price, if its for welding and materials. If this is the case, you should have a bed good as new, when he is finished. Also ask him what kind of metal is he going to use, If I were going to remove and replace the metal I would not use regular mild steel, I would use what the regular bed are made out of (that word has left my warpped brain:Banghead) Not sure what kind of dirt you are hauling, but even the best bed has problems with sticky clay, muke, etc As others stated, the only solution to that is a linner, or vibrator. As others stated, make sure the bed is going up all the way
I never did anything with it. This year so far it has been a problem so I just leave the material around the dog house ( stuck in real good) and just keep going. The bank run stuck in the box now is like concrete so the work to get it out is going to be way more than I want to do. I think when we have a slow day I will have one of the help get in the box with a pick axe and get it out. I wonder how much more I pay at the scales for the extra material stuck in it. :Banghead
If you weigh in with the material there, it's part of your tare weight and costs you nothing in that respect, but it does cost you payload weight and revenue. It's probably a few hundred pounds, it could add up over time.
Hi, Steve. I don't have to weigh in anymore they have my weight saved so I just pick my material and get on the scale once. Couple hudred pounds oh well. I charge by the ton anyways.
dirt hauling... about dirt hauling anyone? i know one who can be of great help....:notworthy
We are hauling clay and I have a Liner in the bed but where my problem is on the tailgate which sometimes when you slap it the clay will still not come off and when you shut the gate and lock it the clay will actually start going under the liner . Has any one ever thought about or did put a liner on the tailgate itself .I have found some stuff at Tractor Supply that is called EZ SLIDE , you pant it on and it works good for a while unless you start either sand or iron ore gravel . any thoughts or answers will be greatly appreciated . Got to go and get fuel one of the guys just called and said that it was $4.519 a gal at the Mobil station which is about 6 miles form me the Exxon which is abiut 2 miles wants $4.899 . twj
Where's that cheap fuel in Tx? Talk about loads hanging... Our old F600 has a diamond plate bed installed by the previous owner. Pump to PTO shaft was out of balance for a while which did a good job at vibrating the bed. I've been wondering about making an elect vibrator from an old starter motor or such. The old truck ain't worth the cost of a new bed vibrator.
Line-x has a spray in material that is great for this application. It is extremely hard and very smooth. I would check with a local spray-in bed liner dealer to get samples and estimates.
It would be cheaper to go to Harbor Freight and buy their $9.00 impact hammer, wire the trger open and mount it under the bed with a plate welded to one of the hammer bits! Throw a valve, and brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Thout there iz trailer park engine nerring at it'z bestest! I jst com up if that won thare!
No air on the F600.
Then buy a 12 volt air compressor and an air tank from Harbor freight too and plug it into the cigar lighter, and hang the tank on the frame with some hanging iron, and follow steps 1 through 5 above...How's that fer trailer park engine eering?:drinkup
I'll just run a long hose from the barn.
Long as yer dumpin' close to the barn all the time I reckon...:drinkup