Having broken the cam advance screw while trying to remove it, I found this document on the net which was a service bulletin from Standadyne. I now realise that the tools listed in the bulletin being p/n 21178 and 24992 could have saved me a lot of grief had I known of their existence. They also talk about a sharp rap with the heel of the hand is preferred to the slow pressure that I employed. I also applied heat as someone suggested that locktite had been applied I now have a broken cam screw to get out. Hope this helps someone.
Been down this road. My helper figured out some scheme but it may not be repeatable.
@thepumpguysc will tell you all you need to know.
Lol..
Well, let him have it....
As much as I’m a BIG fan of kickin a man while he’s down, I think he’s suffered enough.. Now weather or not he’s learned his lesson, remains to b seen.. Happy Tractoring everyone.. “I” can remember doing THAT.!!! It a sinking feeling, especially if it’s for a paying customer .!!! There ARE way to get it out that have been perfected over the years.. Nonetheless it’s a BAD, SICKENING feeling when it happens to u..
This is exactly why I pay pro shops to do these.
I can remember cracking them while GOING TOGETHER.. while torquing them.. it only takes a couple of times to figure out u can’t torque them w the old Bristol tool. Lol..
thanks for the kicking probably deserved. I like to have a go and have spent a lot of money over the years with the pros and regret none of it, they are entitled to their earnings for their knowledge. That being said and this being a help forum and having had the laughs and told you so's. I still have the problem. can you help me with it thepumpguy
I don't remember there being any fix. Is there room to weld a nut onto the broken screw? That almost never fails, except the time I tried to remove some stud welded bolts from a plate of steel, no matter how many times I welded that nut, they just wouldn't come out.
Sure man, I’ll help ya.. THATS what I do.. Fire away..
Sorry for the late reply, been offline for a while. Thanks Delmer I did manage to weld an allen key on there and used a rattle gun to give that quick shock they talked about on the bulletin. I must admit I thought the rattle gun would be too severe but it came out immediately first try. Thank you for your offer of help pumpguy. You mentioned there are tried and tested ways of getting the cam adjusting screw out. Could you describe what I should have done, though unlikely that I will ever tackle one again I would love to know the proper procedure.
Kevin, Great! If it's a 188 or 207 CID 580B...... Some more detailed "DB" Roosa Master injection pump material to review & follow.... Link to DB Roosa Master IP Service Manual (50 yr old classic) https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QICQG0Nz6NuURSVR2F3uvTnRn_zT7r3B
That is brilliant information JD1234 its a 188, thank you for sharing that with me. I really appreciate it. I will keep an eye on the forum, hopefully I might be able to help someone one day. I dabble mostly with old tractors.
I hate to piggyback on a thread but getting desperate.. CAM SCREW forced me to cut housing looking for info on getting new body for Roosa master dbgfcc 431-468aj
14846. Pump hsg U woulda been miles ahead taking it to the machine shop..
Even better off leaving pump rebuilds to the shop mech, but is what it is..I'm trying to not get stuck with the $1600 bill straight out of the gate.. I'm a good mechanic with fair skills but honestly if it comes down to it again my pumps are going to a pump shop... so for now just need to find a replacement pump body that will work with a DBGFCC 43146aj and possibly some to put it back together local or not...around these parts if a kid behind the counter can't find it with a push of a button then it don't exist... in other words machine shops and diesel pump shops are not much help if you can find one
If your in the States , why haven’t u contacted me yet.?? I have a hsg..
R.w. & Kevin, lf you’ve not already done so, be sure to look at the excellent videos posted on YouTube which show the full tear down of a Stanadyne injection pump. In one video it’s shown how the broken cam advance screw is removed by welding a bolt to the remaining stud, adding heat and removing, as mentioned earlier in this thread. Service bulletins online refer to the use of Loctite for that screw so it’s safe to assume that heat will be necessary. A mini torch is a useful tool to heat a small specific part without heating everything around it. There is nothing like heat for breaking free a stuck-tight bolt or screw, of course in some cases the heat ruins the screw and it has to be replaced.