I had problem with hoe not going back or forward , told I need to replace the shifter switch. I need to remove the steering wheel. Seems like it's splined on, glued on from factory ? Put a puller on. Broke puller. Need some help! Thanks
They can be tough, we made small bolts with the proper thread welded to 5/16 capscrews and use a regular steering wheel puller, the kind that has either a 2bolt slot setup or a 3 slot type all in one unit, get as much tension on it as you can and hit the puller bolt sharply with a good size hammer. On one extreme circumstance I had to use a blunt 1/2 in. air chisel and beat the splined area, it digs into the plastic somewhat but came loose. That was the tightest I ever saw one. You indeed may need a switch but there are other things that cause that problem also. If the BU alarm was working on the unit before and no longer works it is an electrical issue. Switches seem to be erratic mostly and wil normally move some then disconnect. I have replaced a few but fuses, relays and the time delay relay are also suspect. If the BU alarm is getting power then the chances are good it's a transmission/reverser problem and could be as simple as the modulator bore snap ring breaking and jamming the modulator piston or aq pump failure. I would diagnose it before throwing a switch at it. A service manual showing test point and procedures would be invaluable to you right now. Good luck, Post back Mel.
Go find a ball bearing about an inch or larger in diameter. Go to your Case dealer and buy a steering wheel nut. Weld the nut to the ball bearing. Remove the nut from the shaft and thread on your nut/ball bearing. SAFELY hit the bearing that is now on the shaft while someone applies a pull on the steering wheel. It may take a few whacks on it, but I`ve never had any puller luck getting it off.
Thanks. My BU alarm is intermittent. That steering wheel is like it's glued on but I'll get it off
I used to pull steering wheels by backing off the nut a couple of turns. THEN I started pulling on the wheel. Flexing and bending it, usually in about 10 seconds it would pop off. It's important you don't remove the nut, that's what keeps the wheel from smashing you in the mouth.
Personally I would not remove the wheel till I was sure the switch is faulty. Proper troubleshooting will maybe save you a lot of work. If the problem is electrical it will back up when the alarm is working and stop moving when the alarm quits, this assumes the alarm is in good condition. If there is power to the reverse solenoid then it should back up as the BU alarm is wired into the reverse solenoid circuit. If the alarm is working anytime it will not back up, check pressures. If your alarm is intermittent then you need to find out if power is present in the wires at the BU alarm. A alternate test would be to turn the switch on, engine off and shuttle in fwd, take a flat washer and see if the stem that holds the two solenoids is magnetized on the rear of the reverser valve, they stick straight back and are held on with a nut, repeat in reverse. If the stem is magnetized the electrical part is OK. Just place the flat washer up against the nut that holds the solenoids in place, you will feel resistance and the washer being held by magnetism HTH