Does anyone have any tips on patching or replacing the face of the blade on my allis chalmers hd9? Looking for ideas on material thickness and where to possibly get pre-formed(rolled) sheets. Should I cut out most of whats there and replace or go over the top of it. Someone had done some "patching" before we got the machine and it looks like crap to be honest.
I had an ol buddy that used to do it years ago as req'd and they'd use flat sheet and form it as they installed, I never saw him do it so I can't say if they clamped/ heated/comealongs/wedges or all but it didn't sound like a big deal, having a dirt blade will be easier due to less curvature than a bullgrader. I think they were using 1/2" plate for D6's, you might want AR400 for abrasion resistance. I would remove the patches and then go right over top, whether you want to meet the cutting edge or remove and use longer plow bolts id your call.......you might want to inspect the framework behind your cutting edge at the same time........I'm sure others will have more to offer......good luck!!
We re-face them quite often. Get a piece of copper tubing and form it to the blade face, and take it to your steel place and have them roll a new face to fit. I would remove the patches that are there also. We use either 1/4" or 3/8" as per customer request.
Dont know about other brands but your caterpillar dealer has preformed liners for dozer blades. make sure you cut the old patches off as the new face wont set proper. If the curve needs a little adjustment... take a heating torch and heat a horizontal line the length of the liner then let cool this will put more curl in the liner as you get it fitting properly, weld away.")
definately use ar400. pre and post heat metal during welding. get it prebent at steel manufacturer and remove old patches. cut a few small holes in center of blade to plug weld to original mullboard for added strength. 3/8 should be thick enough but compare weight with 1/2. you do not want to add too much weight to front. weld, weld, weld. have fun.
awesome guys, thanks!
I'd remove the patches using an arc-air or a plasma-arc, Grind down the rough spots, then check for damage under the patched areas such as bent structural steel. Repair that first. Then, you don't need a full face plate. Virtually all face wear occurs in the bottom half of the existing face. Therefore, you only need that portion plated over. That will save you both time, cost, and weight. I'd recommend the 3/8ths plate, and if this is an occasional use machine, I'd go with standard A36 steel, it's cheaper, easier to bend to fit, and will likely last this old dozer a lifetime. Use a good 7018 rod, and the idea about cutting a few holes for plug welding is a good one. By the way, that's a good looking old AC, don't see many like it anymore. Good Luck!
The weight was some thing I was thinking about. I may end up doing it in two pieces with the seam down the center due to the capacity of the press brakes i have access to. When I get around to fixing the blade, I plan on adding some limb risers and screens to the ROPS that is on it. We use her mostly for clearing trees and brush around our tree farm. a Root rake is another addition I'd like to make. I need to find an old cheap one in the central NY area. We love this old girl and she pairs up well with our AC 615 backhoe.
another pic...
Love the HD-9 pannycj ! Adding limb risers will help allot around trees.I dont see a problem installing the blade face plate in two pieces.Your pictures bring back memorys as my first dozer was a 1955 Allis-Chalmers HD-16 ac.It was a clutch tractor with a gear tranny,but it also had a torque converter between the clutch & tranny that used diesel fuel insted of hydraulic oil to drive it.It worked great, the fuel tank would get warm as the fuel was going though the torque converter while operating the dozer.Keep us posted on the HD-9 progress.
If your going to weld any AR plate to that blade make sure you use AR 300F. AR 360F or AR 400F, The " F " stands for (formable). Check your application before you buy your steel. From the looks of the pictures you posted it looks like you live and work that machine in soft earth. The AR plate would cost a lot compared to A36 ( low corbon ) steel. Plus for the cost of the material you could almost reskin that balde again for the cost of the AR plate. Just my 0.02 cents.
thanks for all the info guys...i was taking a closer look at it this weekend and i believe the blade has been refaced once already. adding another layer might make it a bit too heavy. looks like i'll be taking it down to at least the original face and starting over.
here's another pic of the old girl.
we us 3/8 ar 400 there are metal fab places that can roll it some times they need to do it in 2 pieces cant roll that large piece. also dont run it down to the top of already turned eges cant bolt new ones up seen that before.
What we use to do is called slag welding just to harden up the sides and the face I hope this helps.