I havs a Dresser TD7 G that I want to run this winter. It has a switch and solenoid operated ether injector that I would like to use. I am looking for some instruction on what type of ether cylinder or container is required and where I might get one if it is special. It looks like there is a bail type arrangement to hold the cylinder up into the solenoid but it is not at all obvious to me how it opens or what type of canister is needed. There is a odd shaped black thing that must be some kind of plug or cover in there now but not sure of that either. There is no info in my manuals so if you can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
I don't know about the US but in Canada you can't get the cylinders or the gel tabs any more because it is a Flammable gas no one wants to transport it
Go to KBI website thay are in Illinois
Thanks for the responses. I had looked at the KBI systems and mine is different. It looks like mine will only take a very short container and I think the KBI cylinders need to be mounted so that the cylinder is upside down with the threaded end or mouth down. What I have would require the cylinder or canister to be mounted with the mouth up. I am wondering if I might have something unique to Dresser or International Harvester. Hopefully some one will know. gg
sounds like you have the system that uses a regular ether can. just remove the nozzle and stick the can in. go to a local ag dealer and see how they put the can in.
Alot of farm machinery has ether injection for starting- most (but not all- some use bigger sized ones) use just the regular sized cans like JXM mentioned. DON'T use ether if your Dresser has glo-plugs and you're using them though....... bad things can happen.
JXM I never gave it a thought that it would take a regular ether can. But looking at it with that in mind it makes a lot of sense from the way it is made. Thank you very much. Clam77 thanks for the warning. I didn't know that. I don't have any glo-plugs. No heaters of any type. The only starting aid is the ether. I have got it started without on a couple mornings that were in the low 20s and I can tell she will need some help when it gets colder.
I have shot either for 45 years on my IH farm equipment, dozers and other diesel equipment and have never had any problems. The IH electric either injection shot the either just before the intake manifold. Bad situation because 2 of the cylinders would get the majority of the either at cranking time. I do all my shooting at the air intake before the air filter. By the time it gets to the engine it is well mixed with the air when it gets to the cylinders. It means I have to shoot it on the ground then get into the cab, but it is better than a hammering engine and bent rods. All it takes is one accidental push of the electric either button while the engine is running and the results could be financial disaster. On my ACHD21A the air intake scoop is up front by the operator position and it is easy to shoot. Neighbors son cracked a piston on a Michigan loader then then continued to run it last winter. Dad was not happy. Bob Ohio
On my TD7H I just shoot the ether right in to the bottom of the air cleaner from a hand held can. I have been doing it for 20 years.
Well it sounds easier to shoot it into the air intake. It is sticking up right there in front of me. I thought I read that it is better to inject it into the the manifold or as close as possible. Sounds like you guys don't agree. Is that true ?
Thats how we used to find leaking intake manifolds or gasket, spray a little ether around the manifold while engine is idling and the leaking cylinder will knock 3 or 4 times, crude but affective. WD 40 is much more engine fr
Here is what I have experienced with direct electric injection. My injector nozzle is about 3 inches from the intake manifold. Hit either button for a second, the first pistons that are on a down stroke sucking in fresh air are going to get the majority of the either. I sometimes have had hammering, from pre detenation when injector nozzle sprays fuel, even engine lock up before piston gets to top dead center. They recommend to have the engine cranking before shooting either. If either injector is at the intake manifold, there is still possibility that the same thing can happen. By shooting at air intake, I feel I have a more uniform mixture of either to air and the 4 or 6 cylinders will each get about the same amount of either for a cold weather start. I feel it is the safest way to use either and prevent engine damage. I have seen people pour the either to an engine, it will hammer, lock, and they have to wait to let all either evaporate and try again. When my 21 fires up cold, it my be running on 4 or 5 cylinders. I can give it a trace of a shot in to the air steam being sucked into the intake and the dead cylinder will catch. I saw a torn down engine that a hired man pushed the either button while it was running at 1000 rpm, cracked pistons, bent rods. Instant bankruptcy. Bob
I've always done like HD21 there - a full second or 2 shot into the air intake and and fire it up with a wide open throttle. The colder it is, the more it's going to knock and sound like it's coming apart due to it not evaporating as fast, but all the better till it gets a little heat up in the top end to keep it running. That electric injection is nothing but bad news - we used to disconnect all of ours.