I am looking at a dresser td25g dozer.I welcome all thoughts and opinions of this model.
dresser made a good machine. the old td-8e was basically the same as the old TD-8E international like we run, if i remember right. we recently sold a TD-8G dresser loader. as for the TD25, i assume it is similar to the TD25 international as well.
From what I can tell ,the udercarrige,mainframe,look identical to the td25c.my understanding the differance is the 25g has the kt cummins engine and 3 speed power shift.operaters seat seems farther forward than the 25c.I may be in the market for a 25g with some jobs comming this summer.I want opinions good or bad about the td25g.
TD25's One my favorite machines! I have only ran a TD25E with the IH-817 6 cylinder diesel engine. Was a well balanced machine, good visabilty. The two speed steering is great. I have heard the KT Cummins engines are expensive to work on. They should have a good llife as they were only set at 320 HP, which gives a very flat torque curve(like a Maxidyne mack engine) They built a great tractor, although Cat & Komatsu kicked thier tail due to better dealer networks. Here's a spread of 10 working, with Savannah plows Dug
That sounds great! The plows look interesting.
I agree with Dug O. My favorite dozer was the TD25C although the TD15C was a very close second. Much like the D8H vs D8K, I have always felt the 25C was a better balanced and quicker machine than the G model. I have never liked Cummins boat anchors anyway, and the sound of the 817 was just better than any Cummins could come up with. Unfortunately, the International engine, like the Cats of the same era, was weak on the bottom and top ends. Plenty of power though. I also liked the TD25B even though the couple I ran had the three speed with fuel converter. I was sorry to see them go -- from an operator standpoint. Check the finals and tranny closely. Also make sure the steering/brake compartment cover (it's big) is bolted down tight. On the later Polish built models, Dresser had a real problem with the top always loosening up. Once that happens, you lose steering and braking control and it leaks like hell. It also let water into the compartment. You may have to remove the seat and some floor plates to get there, I don't remember if you can see or feel the retainers from the rear. I don't know who the devil handles parts for these now a days.
Thanks for the advice Surfer-joe&Dug overburdon.I am also a fan of the td25c.The one I halve now is in need of complete undercarige.It is a 1972 model.I am thinking i am better off to upgrade to a newer td25g than spend alot of cash on the old 25c.
parts I needed a fan belt for My TD 15 my Ford /New Holland dealer thru I guess teletype or what ever Has my part no and Komatso/Dresser on the tag. So I guess Komatso took over.
That makes sense,when ordering new parts for my International dozers I go to Brandeis Equipment. They are the komatsu,Dresser,Terex dealer in my neck of the woods.I expect they also handel "Dressta"which was fomerly Dresser.Dressta"s main office is in Poland.It is amasing how many times these companys changed hands.It also worrys me at the same time.
One thing most folks do not understand is that International had went to Poland for manufaturing in the 70's. I think the time line was around 76. When Dresser seperated from Komatsu in 2001 they had to change the name, so they started calling it Dressta. They have a parts distribution center in Bolingbrook, Il and North American head quarters is in Buffalo Grove, Il. If parts becomes an issue give me a shout, I may be able to help. If you go to www.dresstanorthamerica.com there is a distributor portal where you can find your local dealer.
Thank's Dressta 1.Brandiese is the dressta dealer in my area.Does this mean most of the equipment after 1976 was made in poland?I see alot of similarities between my old 25c and the 25g on the main frame& undecarrige.I wonder If the rear end and final drive are the same?
td25 hi guys I can not remember how or where i got these photos but i still like photos of big red tractors working cheers malcolm
Great Photogragh's Malcolm.I halve seen td 24's in red but not a td25.I think a 25 look's good in any color.Look like its a direct drive , I like the angle blade& ripper arangement.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you 25c. I would say there is a lot of commonality between the two.
No problem Dressta1,I went to Dressta's website,and I have to honestly say if I were considering a new machine , I would go with a Dressta.From what I can tell they have stuck to the old way's,big engine,torque converter,power shift transmission, 2 speed differential.If there made anything like a Mig-17 fighter jet,which were also made in Poland,they are a tough reliable machine.
Are the td15c good machines Hi guys, I just signed up so I cannot start a new thread. I am new to dozers. I spotted a td15c that looks good to me. Can you tell me the good and bad. Is there a trick to shift between high and low range? It does not seem to change speed when I try it. I think I have the correct lever. I think it is as 78 moder or possibly a 74. thanks for any help
That high/low range lever always seemed to me to be a split between the main gears,almost like a truck transmission.You will notice it more in reverse,you can tell the difference backing up better.Ron G
Are you talking about a clutch and direct drive machine or a torque converter and power shift machine? The power shift TD15 machines did not have a two speed on the steering like the TD25 machines had. You only had three speeds on the transmission. The direct drive machines had multiple gears on a stick shift like a truck.
If this is a two lever steer machine, you push the steering levers forward to engage the two speed. I was on a TD12C and the guy never knew it had two speed.
landsalesman Thanks for the replys but i am still confused. It is a TD15C. It has 1,2 then 3,4 on the shift lever for forward and reverse. There is a long stick on the right side of the machine and a very short one close to it. I thought this was the high/low lever. Do I need to push the steering levers forward to engage the different speed? If so how do I shift back to the other gear? Do you know what the 2 levers on the right do?
You are looking at an ag tractor used for pulling disks and cultivators. It has a master clutch and a manual transmission. It will have a foward and reverse stick and a range stick for controlling the transmission. These machines usually did not come with a blade but some dealers installed them and sold them as construction machines. They usually did not work well. I have seen them used for log skidding in the 1970s and they seemed to be acceptable to the loggers who weren't real picky about what they had as long as they drug logs out of the brush. I've only seen a couple so don't know much. You haven't stated what you intend to do with the machine so I don't know whether it will work for you or not.
The TD-15C has the conventional torque converter and the speed/directional control shifter on the left side in the "inverted U" pattern that everyone is familiar with.It also has an High/Low range lever on the right side that looks similar to the forward/reverse lever on the old mechanical transmission/master clutch (Johnson bar?) that us old guys grew up with. That is what he is talking about.The lever comes up out of the floor panels and every one that I have seen had it.The other lever controls the blade.Ron G
TD15c The lever coming up from the floor is a manual Hi /Lo range lever, can only be shifted when the powershift is in neutral. In LO range it gives you 1st &3rd, in Hi range it gives you 2nd & 4th . The 15b/c and the TD 20b/c, 175 & 250 Drotts also had the same system as did the TD9B /150 Drott but they only had a forward /reverse powershift. I spent over 20000hrs on 15Cs and several thousand more on 25Bs & Cs, got lotsa photos just got to get around to putting them on here.
TD15c Should have also mentioned it dosent have 2speed steering as in the newer models and the two levers on the right, the taller one is the blade lever, up/down is blade lift & left and right is blade tilt if it has a tilt blade, the other lever is for the 3rd spool valve in the hyraulics system and is normally used for the rear ripper if one is fitted.
It occured to me later that he might have been thinking about the small lever near the brake pedal that dogs the ratchet to lock the brakes but it is hard to tell without seeing it.Almost anyone could figure out the blade control lever.Ron G
I am getting old and senile! You both are correct on the two speed lever and such. Thanks for clearing that up.
The original poster apparently doesn't read the replies,he is still starting new posts asking the same question.LOL.Ron G
landsalesman Sorry Ron, I did read all replys and appreciate very much your responce. I am new and was trying to start a new thread on the td15. I thought I had to respond to 3 different post befor I can start the td15 thread. It has rained hard here in Oklahoma every day but maybe today I can go back to the machine for another look. It sounds like I did have the correct lever(The longer one on the right) to change from high to low range. It seemen to make very very little difference if any at all. One reply said it will be more noticible in reverse. Another said to push the steering levers forward. I will try both. I really like the machine. The previous owner was a lifelong operator and mechanic so I feel he really knew dosers. I will let you now and again sorry for my mistake. Anyone ever get my way to Eastern Oklahoma look me up. There may be fishing involved.
Just purchased a TD15c and have a serial number issue. I cannot locate a serial number on the machine. The plate on the firewall is gone, rivets still there. I can't find the serial number that someone said is around the seat area. There is a winch on the rear of the dozer and dont see a plate back there. Need to know the serial number to figure out what turbo to buy. I can't get good number off the busted turbo. It is the only part that is holding me up on getting everything back together. Glad I found this board, look foward to the discussions.
As I recall they used to stamp the frame on the right side above the final drive right at the top but I could be wrong. That might have been an E model.
Serial number for TD15-C The machine serial number is stamped on the right side of the frame just to the rear of the right final drive bolts. The numbers are up and down. My 15-C only has the last four numbers stamped, that's the ones that count anyway. For the turbo, you will need to know the engine model and serial number. That is stamped on the left side of the engine under the intake manifold near the center of the engine. I'm going to take the turbo of my 530 loader with a DT-414 engine which is similar to a DT-466 used in a 15-C. The guys on the ag forums say these turbos are common and a lot of places can rebuild them. FWD
Did some searching for the serial number, after reading your post, don't think I am looking close enough to the final drive housing. Was looking further up. When I say looking, I was cleaning the rusy painted metal with a pnumatic rolloff wheel. I am going to look again tomorrow, Thanks for the advise. As far as the turbo, I may look into price for a reubild. I can buy new for around 600.00. Just got the rest of the parts needed to finish the job. Just need to figure out what to do with the turbo. Biggest hurdel to overcome is going to be rethreading for a helicoil, one of the exhaust manafold studs. Why you say did I take off the exhaust manafold, I had to get all the chunks of rust that fell down into the manafold. In removing the nuts, the nuts were seized to the studs and came out of the head. I did however break one stud off in the head and had to drill it out. Actually broke an easyout in the stud. Ended up blowing out the center of the bolt with a torch. After that, drilled the remainder of the bolt out and ready to tap new threads. Tomorrows project is to make a guide plate for the tap and bolt it to the head. All in all, the rust falling down into the manafold has costed me around 230.00 in new studs, nuts and washers, 25.00 for a new manafold gasket, and 30.00 for a helicoil kit. Ahhh the joys of owning a dozer.
Today is a bad day. Found a crack in the head, on the bottom of the number three exhaust manafold bolt hole. Going to get a second opinion on it, may be on the search for head for my machine. Or leave it be and put it back together, so it runs to drive it onto the trailer to send to the parts salvage yard. Or run it til the crack goes through...
Dang !,my TD25 thread has been highjacked by the TD15 dozer.Thats ok guys,I have a TD15B model oil field dozer.They are a nice mid size tractor.Welcome to the forum landsalesman & buckshot70737.Thats some good information on the TD15c FWD.I love them old TD15's!
Well I found the serial number. It was right where FWD said it would be. Thanks! Just had to buff off the three layers of paint to find it. About the cracked head. Talked to two machinist and they said to run the motor until it leaks. If and when the crack spreads, it will reach a water jacket first. Will put out the alarm to replace the head. As far as the turbo, there are three different turbos for the TD15C, and based off the chassis serial number. Now that I have the number, I can get the turbo. So far have price of around 600 for a garrett t4b18 turbo. Does anyone else have experience of having such difficulty with locating the serial number on the machine?
sorry to change subjects but I am new and do not hae posting rights yet. I am looking for a suggestions on a containerization service. Only one I have found so far is Red Rock Machinery in Las Vegas. Anybody familiar with them or have any other names? www.rrmcinc.com is the website for Red Rock. thoughts greatly appreciated.
Has any of you had a 175 international?
Perhaps the waikari limeworks old international?
Done some looking in to it, and pretty sure thats the waikari limeworks machine, with my grandfather driving it
That photo came from Redpower from a NZ member so you may well be correct.........
If you want to do anything on a TD25C, just follow the workshop manual (procedures, torques, etc.). Do not try any shortcuts - they are too expensive!