Before I start I would like to say hello and thanks for reading my post. I am going to look at a TD7 H soon. I have researched this dozer on a few forums and no one has really had anything bad to say about them. I have done quit a bit of mechanic work in my few years and I am aware of the obvious things to look at. The U/C is supposed to be in great shape and the machine is said to run out good. My concerns are did these machines have any problem area's that were specific to them? Some machines are famous for these problem area's and others have none. I am not familier with the Dresser brand so I am asking you. Also, I am curious if this machine has wet brakes and steering clutches or dry? Are they made similar to the smaller/older Komatsu crawlers where the brake band goes around the drum that holds the steering clutch or more like the Case machines where the brake is on the end of the shaft? Any advice would be appreciated.
Have a D39p-1 (might be the same as td9h) and have pretty much restored over the last 2 years. Power thru the diff goes thru planitaries then a large disc and brake applied will actually drive the machine. There is another large disc and brake on the top shaft that applies the brake. Brakes and clutches are wet. Td7 h has smaller finals, check magnets for chipped teeth. They have joystick steering, really a good feature. Have done some part time work for locals to recoup some expenses, really like the machine.
i have a td7g with cummings motot, brakes and cutting clutches run in oil, and very little problems with trans and cutting clutches mine is very stout, they are as good as small dozer as you can get, they are not popular like john deere or cat, their selling value is lower and you can get parts from most komats dealers, they handle and steer very good, you will like it. i have never run a h but i think the g is similar
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. From what I have read they are good machines, but I have never owned one. If it works out I will try to post some pics of the machine and you can tell me if I did ok or got shafted.
Ok. I bought the machine. It has some lower rollers that are bad and the seal and bearing are out the right final drive. The blade has some slack in it and one top roller needs replaced. I will try to post some pics soon. I noticed while pushing that when you pull the right track lever to turn, the machine will apply the brake which in turn will decelerate the machine. After getting it home I pulled all the sheet metal and pans and gave it a good bath to see better what was going on. This does not appear to be a linkage issue. When sitting in the seat with the floor plate removed there is a rod on the top right of the transmission that moves forward which applies the brake pedal. The left track lever has no affect on this lever and it does not apply the brake or decelerate. Does anyone have some idea of where to start trouble shooting this problem? Also, is there some way to adjust the brake. When you mash the brake it goes nearly to the floor before it will stop the machine. Should it declutch or brake only?Thanks.
dresser td7h dont know if the h is the same as my g, but to adjust the brakes on my g, there is a adjustmen on each side for the brakes, make sure tracks are cleaned off and look right above the sprocket in the side of dozer, there will be a big 1/1/2 inch jam nut, loosen it a turn or two, then take a 3/4 socket and turn to the right a bout 1/4 turn till brake pedal comes up, tighten jam nut and go to other side and do the same thing, you also have some adjustment on the foot brake pedal, look close at the adjustment and if you see 3 or4 threads showing, you should have good lining, if you see no threads your lining is worn., this is the way my td7g adjust, if yours has the big nut on each side it should ad just the same way, brakes are easy to install on a td7g. you have a cover plate under seat, remove it and the brakes looks like disc pads on a big truck, no axles or nothing to remove they fit down be beside of plantarys. you might want to get a manual on a td7h. good luck the brake pedal just stops the machine it does not kick it out of gear, the one linkage works both sides of brakes it works under the cover, you said you had bad bearing in final drive, that might be your problem. let me know what you find out
The H model Dresser's when they came out did not have a decel pedal. Pressing on the brake pedal also decelerated the engine. We had to fabricate a system to install decel pedals in machines that had winches because you could not pull your self out a trouble with the winch if you had the brake on at the same time. The steering levers are not supposed to decelerate the engine. Only the brake pedal does that. As I recall there are linkages attached to the handles that go to steering valves to operate the steering and brakes. Do not try to adjust the brakes from the side until you make sure the linkages are all adjusted properly. The final drive can be unbolted from the frame of the tractor and rebuilt without a lot of special tools. From what you are describing you will have some damage to the casing holding the seal and bearing. The undercarriage components on these machine were notorious for bad seals in the bottom rollers and front idlers. Dresser went away from a toric sealing ring like the Cats have and went to a square ring to push the metal to metal seal rings together. The oil would leak, the components would get side play and then fall apart from losing oil. The loose blade linkage was usually in the T bar and the center pin underneath. I used to built up the T bar by pad welding the bar and the plates that bold it to the blade. I would then shim the plates to give enough room so the blade would still be able to tilt. If the center pin underneath is broke up you had a job to put the bearing bore back together. The other issue with the blade concerned where the C frame hooks into the frame of the tractor. The bolts holding the bosses to the main frame would get sloppy and then wear out quick. You couldn't keep them tight after that. They are a real pain to get to unless you walked the machine up on blocks. Good Luck!
I have the blade off and am working on getting the slack out. The final drive housing is OK, only the bearing was bad and of course the seal. Parts are already here I just need to pick them up. What is puzzling me right now is the steering. I have looked all over the net with no leads on what to look for. Does anyone know what ties the steering brake to the parking brake? I am sure they are the same brake, but the parking brake pedal should not apply when you turn the machine.
On my D39 the right pedal decelerates till close to the floor then applies manuel brakes, there is a button also on the right if you push down with the pedal down engages a rachet catch and holds the pedal down, you could call parking brake. There is only one internal brake mechanism on each side. The left pedal when pressed dumps hydraulic pressure to pistons( operating brakes) and lets the (internal)springs apply the brakes, when you kill the engine, eventualy you lose hydraulic pressure in brake system and springs apply brakes. There is a pressure port above the battery to manually pump up the brakes to release for transport with dead engine. When you hold the right pedal down lightly on brakes and move steering to right or left you can feel pedal move a little, helps to inch close into a tight spot. Both pedals and steering lever end up controlling the same brakes. Hope this wasn't to confusing, it sounds complicated but not as much when you see the drawings. They do steer well, but go easy when you steer back to center.
I think the problem is a simple brake adjustment , the one side is too tight , the adjustment is on the side of the final drive near the track and after making the adjustment and before tightening the big locknut set the parking on hard to prevent loosing the adjustment .
Can anyone tell me the engine model number for a 1994 TD7H. Serial # P025861. It looks like there might have been a change starting at serial # P026601?
I don’t know the model number anymore, but all the H models were Cummins B engines.
Thank you for the reply.