I have an old Drott 40 that I have been using at my mine. When I parked it last November everything was fine. I fired it up last week and now the right track wont drive. The left side works fine. The right hydraulic travel motor is fine. Does anyone have an idea where to start troubleshooting? Any ideas as to where I could find a shop and parts manual?
I still run one old drott 40 as a spare machine mine is an earily 80's machine. Mine has a track brake on it. Its just a toggel switch on the lefthand side of the controls. I would start their maybe a wiring problem to the right side. When that toggle is flipped it locks the tracks. Also Case bought out drott but they still sell parts so any case heavy equipment dealer should be able to healp you. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply, The brake is loose. I raised the right track off the ground and it turns real slow then stops. I wonder if the hydraulic pressure on that side is low?
Your brake solenoid may work but the brakes on them are notorious for sticking. Check pressures first. Block the tracks and check the right side then the left side. Offhand I can't think of what the pressure should be...but if the left is way higher than the right start with the relief. That said the drott series was notorious for a binding brake. the solenoid worked, there was brake pressure but the plates in the brake tend to fuse together. If presure is ok, remove the motor and the brake housing. Disassemble the brake housing, slowly loosen the bolts holding housing together. Inspect the brake parts, if any discs are fused to the plates or badly scored. replace then. If you need to use the machine the brake housing can be reinstalled without the brake discs, it will track but not brake on that side. Hope this helps
40B drive loss Little late on this, pick up track side not working, have helper in cab move pedal to move track , look at axle shaft going to the sprocket, if it turns and sprocket dosen't, splines are striped in sprocket, next remove cover to drive motors, remove the two 1/2 bolts or the 4 bolts on the cover plate (brake houseing) slide motor/ motor and cover out and to the side, drive coupling may come out also, if not remove it, take a close look at the internal splines and input shaft splines to the final drive, Caution these can be worn raiser sharp!!!!! internal splines in this coupling fail/strip out often. You didn't say if it was both directions, so if it were me, all other functions work , switch the track motors and see if the problem changes sides, it takes less than 30 min, I am thinking that if other functions work, the main relief on that control valve is good and to have both track circut reliefs bad would be rare. If you haven't repaired yet post again, and will give more info.
Thanks for all the replies. I have a broken shaft so now I am looking for parts. I was hoping to find a complete used final drive but forget that I can't find one .
drott Lots of parts out there for this machine, a good used final drive goes for around $2500. I can give you names, of several places that have these. What shaft was broken? Was it the small shaft, that is in line with the drive motor, about 8" long X 1 1/2" This is a easy shaft to replace, I just did one 2 weeks ago. The bearings can be bought for $20 for two, the shaft can be got from your Case dealer (not sure of the price) If it is the little shaft, you do not have to disassemble the final drive, it can be replaced in about 2 hours (of course with the final drive removed) Ive never seen a big shaft broken, if it is, HUMMMM look for another one and save that one for parts. Hope this helps
Also trying to locate final drive for Drott 40 or 50 We are looking for these parts, too. Any info you could provide about where to locate would be greatly appreciated!
Drott Let me know what parts you need and Ill check on my end. I have several sources, all in NC
changed the sprocket bearings and a broken gear , caused by the bad bearings, book says lift sprocket off shaft using weight of gearbox , tried that, then tried press, then 100ton press, finally 350 ton press. machinist said ; that sprocket is gonna shatter so we wound up machining shaft out and replacing with one from ebay. Heard of them stripping the hub of sprocket and spinning, but not being 350+ tons stuck. Other side has bad bearings too. hope that sprocket comes off!
drott 40 parts Call Construction Equipment parts, in Goldston ,NC ask for Adam 1 800 727 8787 They deal mostly in Drott, Komastu, Lieberr Final drives running about $2500 I have a friend that has one for a spare, if you send me your phone number, I will pass it on to him, he may want to sell it
My old Drott 40 Hey everyone, I stumbled upon this thread while looking up some information on my dad's old Drott 40. I suppose there are still a few of them around. This old Drott has a strong running Detroit diesel engine, however, several cylinders have leaks and it has the track problem where one just won't pull that seems to be the focus of this thread. Probably that shaft is broken on mine, too. Anyways, if anyone is interested in this machine please get in touch with me, I'd be willing to sell it or willing to hire someone to fix it up for me who has knowledge of these problems. Thanks.
drott 35 BEC what do I need to do to remove the drive sprocket from a drott 35 and are there parts out there
anyone have a final drive for a 40d they want to sell. only really need is the inner pillow block housing
hd16b, unless you need it all i would just rebuild the inner block, most machines in the bone yards will need it done unless you can find a good one, they are a lot of work to strip down to get the bearing off even with the rite tools, and a good puller, sometimes you have to take the cover loose and burn the axle bearings out to get it if the sprocket and inner piller block is stuck, the retainer ring in that inner block that screws in can be a job also if it's stuck, have you ever done one?.
you are right sheepfoot it was a lot of work to get the shaft out. Both of my piillow block bearings were out. I can get everything except the inner pillow housing. My housing and shaft are messed up but the machine shop said they get fix the shaft. My partsman said the same inner hosing was on the 40d\50\CASE1280\and case 1080. If anyone knows where to find one call me at 252 916 2927.
We just got a Drott 40BEC in for parts if needed just let me know
parts list & manual we are looking for a manual for our drott and we also have some questions on the gear box.
e-bay is a good place to find the manuals,what do you need to know about the gearbox? I will try and help you if I can answer any of your question
Posting on this old thread. I purchased a Drott 35C for scrap price since the engine was seized. My plan was to swap the engine with my current 35 since the new one is in better shape and keep the previous one for parts. I got the engine swapped and when i fired it up I noticed the inner pillow block bearing is shot on one side. It is wore to the point that when power is put to the track the whole drive assembly moves about 3 inches up and down. I have the parts off my other machine. I am wondering if I can get some advice on what would be easier. Just change out the bearing or break the track and replace the whole drive assembly including the sprocket. I replaced the idler on my previous machine a few years ago and it wasn't all that difficult. Any advice on this from some of you guys that have spent some time with these machines? I would appreciate any info.
You will need to break the track either way, I would first check the jack screws that hold the bearing block in place along with the bolts that hold it to the frame. Is your 35 a A or B series, like 35EC or 35BEC. The quickest way would be to unbolt the whole unit and switch out, rebuild the other shaft/bearings and sprocket for a later install if needed.
Thanks Sheepfoot. Its a 35DC. Serial Number 6266299. My older machine is same thing with a serial number of 6266222. There is some minor differences in the dashboard so I am thinking they may be a year apart in age. I am thinking around 1978 vintage. Thanks for the advice. I hadn't considered that maybe the bolts were missing or broke. That would be awesome if that was the only issue.
Hi, I have a drott 35d. The first intermediate shaft has the gear stripped.I have not been able to find the part. I am looking for the specs to have the gear made.would anyone have this information?
Hi Tony. Hope you found an answer already. If not a gear company can determine the pressure angle of the gear if you have a gear with some good teeth to give them. I've used Martin Gear and Sprocket for other gears in the past when I didn't want to set up a machine to make a gear or it was a helical gear. Is the gear a plain bore with a key or is it splined? Do you have photos of yours? I just visited because my Drott 40 suddenly lost drive power on one side. It still turns if lifted off the ground. I'm also in Michigan - little town called Nashville. I'm watching for parts machines nearby. Possibly you are close enough for e to see what you have? My phone is 517 852-1900
Hi All, I'm just jumping into this forum for the first time. I recently bought an old Drott 40 BEC, SN is 693 so I think its late 70's early 80's. It has a Perkins T4.236 engine. I started and ran it 3 or four times for short stints with no issues the engine sounded good and strong. then once I fired it up it ran for 1 minute or so, began chuging and now I cannot for the life of me get it to turn over... before it died I was poking around the engine looking at stuff and I exersized the manual shutoff on the fuel pump and also pulled the pump arm on the highlift pump a couple times.. this is when the engine was off before i knew of any problems. Next was when I tried to start it and it ran fine for the 1 minute then quit. since then I have replaced the battery and changed all the filters, cleaned the air filters, fresh engine oil, bled the air out of every port I can find on the fuel delivery and still it won't turn over. I have even tried a little cold start in the intake which gets the engine to fire for a half second and then nothing. it seems to me like it is just not getting the fuel but i have loosened the high pressure lines at the atomizers and you can see the fuel leaking one at a time when i crank the engine.. Any thoughts? am I missing something obvious? seems odd that the fuel pump would just randomly stop producing enough pressure all of a sudden... or likewise all four atomizers fail all of sudden.. sorry for the novel!
I'm not familiar with this particular engine and fuel pump to know exactly what you have. If it starts or fires on ether and not now - it likely is not getting fuel. Be careful with ether. I've seen broken rings on the older Perkins engines. They usually don't need ether above 50 degrees F. When you say fuel is leaking from the injectors when bleeding them - how much fuel are you talking of? It should not just be dripping individual drops but a significant number - enough to fill a thimble after a number of strokes. If I understand correctly you lift pump has an external lever that can be manipulated to operate the pump. The lift pump should be supplying a pulse of fuel with each stroke of the lever. And - the pump should maintain fuel pressure to the injector pump once it is pumped up. I suspect the lift pump is not supplying fuel as needed. There normally is a vent screw/cap on the upper side of the injection pump that is used to purge air from the injection pump. Loosening this and operating the lift pump should result in a very obvious flow of fuel with each stroke of the lift pump. Once this is confirmed - you then close this plug. Now operate the lift pump lever - you should notice a change in how the lift lever feels as the fuel pressure builds up and holds the pump diaphragm up against the internal spring. Once you confirm the lift pump supplies fuel and retains pressure after manually cycling the pump - Then - make sure the engine stop device is in the run position. Open throttle fully. Bleed the injector lines by slightly loosening each line nut and cranking the engine over with the starter. You are not looking for individual drips of fuel from the lines but enough to say to yourself - this is making a mess. Make certain that the lift pump always maintains fuel pressure to the injector pump. I've seen the arm on the fuel pump wear and not provide sufficient stroke of the diaphragm to provide sufficient fuel or for the check valves or diaphragm in the pump to fail. I've had to replace a lift pump on a small tractor with a Ford/Perkins engine 3 times in 30 years. In fact - I have a new pump - #4 - waiting to be installed. Hope this is of some help. Ron
I've found that the track drive on my Drott 40B stripped the output shaft/drive sprocket. Does anyone have a sprocket and shaft available? Or - have experience on making one functional by welding or pinning? I bet Sheepfoot does but it looks like we lost him as he has not posted for a year. Wish I could talk to him. Such a treasure of knowledge.