Hello everyone, I have a td8e with a dt239. The engines is very hard to start and it will only start when the lever is in cold start and with ether. After it is running in the cold start position I keep moving the handle on the fuel pump that acts like the accelerator and it takes about 10 minutes for me to be able to change the lever out of cold start into idle position without stalling. When I try to run the machine it has no power. Even when the engine is hot it won't start on any position than cold start and some ether. Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks
I see you have post on this site (usually get more help if you don't have more than one post for the same problem) I also see that you replaced the engine in the machine with the one that you are having problems with...did you rebuild the engine before installing it? or or did you know it to be a good engine? I can't offer any real help other than to say a serial# would be nice so people in the know could see just what tractor you are having this problem with.
I am thinking that I have more than one problem one is the transmission and the other is the engine power. Actually, I have another problem with the electrical and starter switch. *4420015U010463* this is the serial of the dresser. No, I did not rebuild this engine. I bought from a guy which had said it was working fine. Don't know much about the engine. Any thoughts are very much appreciated. Thanks
I have a non turbo D239 in a tractor. It has a manual fuel shut off cable, but for whatever reason known only to the German engineers, they made it so the cold start position is pulling the shutdown halfway out. Maybe the cable or linkage is out of adjustment and it's getting too far into shutdown position?
Help! This is were I am now. I decided to replace the fuel pump from the broken engine with the pump from the new engine. The amount of fuel that was coming out of the pump line to the injectors was a lot more powerfull than the other pump ( I mean a lot more powerfull) . It took 3 30seconds cranks of the engine to bleed the lines and engine started right away! and in idle position. But, the engine ran for may be 5 seconds and it came to a complete stop. I heard a noise coming from the fuel pump right before the engine stopped so I took the fuel pump out. The key from the fuel pump shaft was shaved off. Basically, the shaft was nicely smooth and the grove were the key is suppose to be sticking out it was filled up by the key(will post picture later). I need to either rebuild the other pump that came with the engine or buy a rebuilt pump. If someone knows of a fuel pump for sale or a place that can rebuild it please let me know. I am located in Surrey, British Columbia. Any help is very much appreciated...
The key sheared because the pump locked up internally.. It could have been caused by a stuck closed injector.. So u NEED TO remove the injectors and get them tested.!! before installing a $2000.00 pump and it happening again.!! I had a customer that bought 3 pumps before he finally pulled his injectors.!! U can’t help some people..
Yeah the pump is locked and completely ceased up. When I took the pump of the broken engine I noticed that the two fitting for cylinder 2 and 4 were bent because they were hit by one of the rods that came through the block. I did not think much about it. I took the fittings from the other pump and replaced them. Now, I am thinking that when the pump got hit by the rod it probably bent the shaft and you know the rest. If the pump from the broken engine was damaged by a injector from the new engine been bad then the other pump would have been damaged also. But, the other pump was working fine but with not enough pressure. I am thinking to buy a rebuild kit. I saw diggnok youtube video and I will try it out. GASKET KIT FOR BOSCH EP / VA TYPE ROTARY DIESEL PUMPS Bosch 1467010036 I guess the question is: If the fuel pump is working fine but with not enough pressure will it get fixed by just replacing whatever comes in this kit?
No.. the pressure is accomplished by the tightness of the head and rotor.. U could adjust the max fuel and see if that works.?? The max fuel screw is the bottom left screw.. DO NOT TURN IT OUT MORE THAN 1 FULL TURN.. And your right about being bent .. that would lock one up. Unless u have a VA rebuild manual.. DO NOT ATTEMPT IT. There’s springs and shims behind the fuel and rpm bushings.!!
Jared.. have someone work the shut off while u look at the pump.. (Bottom right) There is a spring loaded pin on the pump for starting and shut off.. the lever should be touching the pin at starting and collapsed at shut off..then pushed back in to rest on the face of the pin for the next starting.. Hope that helps..
Thanks for the tips. I will try the screw to see if it helps with the pressure and I will check the spring loaded pin. -the other issue is the timing: The timing plate did not move after the pump ceased up. So, do I crank the engine until the gear moves so the slot for the pump shaft key is in the up position? Then, install the pump? If there anyway someone can walk me through on how to install the other pump? Thanks so much!
Thanks pumpguy. My engine is running fine (at least it was when I put it in the shed last fall) and I thought I could help Edc out but it sounds like there's much more going on now. But since you gave me that info I'll go ahead and make sure mine's in adjustment when I get it cranked up in a week or so.
Unless u pull the valve cover and find #1 compression stroke, be prepared to put this on TWICE.. I’m assuming u know about the timing line on the cam plate.?? behind the side plate.. Seeing your old one is probably sheared and won’t move, it’s a guessing game.. One thing Bosch did was.. The key or key way will point to the cylinder that’s firing.. So remove the nut and washer from the drive shaft, and with a mirror look inside to find the slot in the gear..(key) Rotate the engine until the slot is pointing at #1 cyl on the pump..(follow the line up to the injector to find #1) It should tell u what degrees to set the flywheel to on the valve cover.. 18-23*.??
Thank you for the help! I will have to deal with the timing when I get a pump that works. This is getting a bit too pricy. I found a company that is selling replacement pumps for dt239. The pump is a VE that replaces the VA style of pumps. You will need to change linkage and fuel lines to be able to install this pump. I am not sure if I want to spend all that money though $2100.00. At this point, I am thinking to open up both of the pumps and see if I can actually get one working. Unless, by a miracle one of you guys will send me a pump in the mail as a present!. I might be lucky and find an old tractor with the same pump or something like that. Thepumpguysc- can you tell me exactly where is the bolt to adjust the fuel pressure.
I already did.. You’re not adjusting “pressure” You’re adjusting “quantity” Bottom LEFT screw.. Don’t go more than 1 full turn OUT.!!!
Sorry Thepumpguysc, bottom left from were? Can you see the bolt on one of the pictures I posted? If you see the bolt would you be so kind to tell me in what picture you see the bolt?
Hi Everyone, I found a pump but the serial number or part number is not exactly the same. the pump is from a DT239 engine. my pump part number is 0460304219 and serial number is VA4/10h1250CR90. The pump from the other engine is part number 0460304226 and serial number is VA4/10H1250CR89. Is it safe to assume that because it is a DT239 engine the pump should be interchangeable? Thanks again for all your help.
It’s perfectly fine..get it if they warranty it.. No telling how long it sat..