Good afternoon, I have a gehl that has a duetz 1011f motor 3cylinder. I have an issue with it as it is blowing white or white/gray smoke and also has a miss in it. The return lines going into the injectors had many leaks and have since replaced them, I also put new injectors and put a new valve cover gasket in. I did reset a couple of the valves. Still blowing smoke. At a loss right now. I am a little novice on this so any insight/help appreciated. It also does seem to have fuel in the oil but read that leaks could cause that.
If it's not the injectors, or low compression, then it has to be timing, timing could be all mechanical, or affected by air in the fuel. Did you pop test the new injectors? can you loosen the injector lines one at a time to see if one cylinder smokes worse? replace fuel filter? replace any rubber fuel hoses? screens? or transfer pump?
Thanks for the response. I temperature checked at the exhaust…..the furthest back is about 100* cooler then the other 2
How many hours? Timing belt ever changed? No bluish tint to the exhaust that could be oil (head gasket)?
Was it doing this when you got the machine or has the white smoke symptom developed during the time you owned it.?
Machine has 2300 hours on it. I bought it before last winter and just started doing this a few months ago. Just an acreage skid loader but have been using it a lot for dirt work. I haven’t done anything to it other then change filters in it after I got it. The cylinder in question looks like the exhaust is “wet” discolored not rusty looking like the other two.
So it's had the smoking issue ever since if first came into your hands.? Or has the smoking issue got noticeably worse since during your ownership.?
There was a light smoking after I changed filters. Almost not even noticeable. But has been worse after I owned it.
So you've had the exhaust manifold off? I assume since the smoking got worse? before or after the new injectors, or off the whole time?
I never pulled the manifold off, but I can see where it goes from the motor to the manifold is discolored. Just randomly started to smoke. Never changed belt or had issues before.
Ok, so I ran it for a little bit today. Smoke went away and temp checked the cylinder that wasn’t heating….was about the same as the other two. I’ll try to include a video of what it’s doing. Not sure what is making the noise. It gets loud and does quiet a little bit. https://youtube.com/shorts/bA9EjAfxG0w?feature=share [URL]https://youtube.com/shorts/bA9EjAfxG0w?feature=share [/URL]
hopefully it's just the center cylinder sounding different without the muffler? or a fan or drive coupling making the noise? if it's coming from inside then engine then that's bad...
Muffler is on havent dug more into it it’s been cold here…the smoke is just snow melt from inside….too me being inside it sounds more like it’s under Meath my feet vs behind in motor but at a loss….didn’t have much power until the other cylinder kicked in. Maybe air in fuel line in earlier issue.
Get the engine up to operating temp, run it at a decent high throttle, doesn't have to be full tilt, and hold a white rag like T shirt material at the exhaust pipe, if the rag gets spots of black motor oil on it, 9 times out of 10 on a Duetz 1011 or 2011 it's the head gasket causing that oil from the exhaust, will also cause a miss. BTW, 2300 hrs is in the range of replacing the timing belt on that engine as well, I tried to never take one over 3K hrs before replacing that belt.
Ok, haven’t worked on this for awhile. Today I pulled the line from the injector pump to the injector(furthest back). The white smoke went away, but still had a little bit of a tik noise. Put the line back on and still had a a little smoke after but had more power. Could it be injector pump putting too much fuel in? I’m contemplating driving all the fuel out and redoing rest of the fuel lines back to tank.
Did you try Willie’s test for oil in the exhaust yet.?
I did that this morning, ran it for about 5 minutes then used white rag. Didn’t have anything on it.
Well, 5 minutes is barely enough time to get it up to operating temperature, but I can't say for sure. BTW, you're not looking for an oil soaked white rag, rather, you're looking for itty bitty little spots or specks of black motor oil on the rag. That's why I suggested T shirt material, a heavy nap rag like a washcloth won't really show these specks.
I ran longer this time did same thing and have nothing. Was super Smokey to start with then became less but still decent amount. Too me it seems like it’s not burning all the fuel or getting too much as it’s hard to stand behind it for much time.
If you still see the temp stay down at all on that rear cylinder, swap the injector with the front and see if it follows. Could just be a bad new/reman injector putting you through this.
I agree, that's the next thing I'd do. If it remains the same I suppose I'd next swap injection pump units. After that, with no compression test, I see head removal, could be a bent connecting rod, I've seen that happen on a 4-53 Detroit before
It was acting this way before the injector change also.it didn’t have a miss so bad today when I ran it. Definitely a “tick” sound but I pulled the valve cover and looked down ea h of the lifters and they all looked straight. Ran a little bit with the valve cover off and all seems to work to me. The 2nd cylinder rockers seem a little offset towards the back of the machine but looks to work correctly. I was going to pull the cover off the lift pump but there is a bracket at the same level as the screw. So didn’t get that off. Did pull the fuel filter off just to check and looked clean and no rust or anything. Seems like a fuel issue to me bur not having much luck.
That's the trick, issues like this are not easy to diagnose without being there because there's a number of things can cause your problem. Yes, insufficient fuel deliver can make diesel engines do weird things, like smoke, miss, tick, because the fuel pressure isn't correct at the injectors from lack of fuel. Got to eliminate all of the external possibilities before you tear into the engine.
I’m going to drop fuel filter and drain the tank and replace rest of the fuel line from tank to motor. I had it trailed one time to take to my brother in laws and put full tank of fuel in….seems to have been when it started to act a little funny. The cylinder that I feel to have issues with is the first one in line from pump. But seems to come out of the miss fire after a few minutes of running…..I was looking at the lift pump, how the heck do you pull that end cap off with a engine support deed even with the screw??
Any chance you have an inline filter coming right off of the tank that hasn't been changed? I've run into a few Gehls that had just that clogged up and buried in mud so they were never noticed over multiple services.
Not only that, but since you mentioned inline filter, and may not be the case here if he doesn't have one, but many folks don't know that typical inline filters are for gasoline, the filter media doesn't really like diesel fuel. One would be better off with an inline mesh strainer for diesel applications to prevent heavy debris from going through the lift pump, then let the fuel filter catch the fines.
I followed all the fuel lines. Nothing in line, and no primer ball like I have read about. To me the fuel line shave maybe been replaced at one time as there are actual hose clamps in spots vs the spring loaded style. I have read there is a mesh screen in the lift pump. The screw to that is t too assessable as it’s right in line with a bracket coming off the machine and holds the motor in place.
There were several types of lift pumps used on Deutz engines. Typically, if it has a single screw in the center of the cap on the lift pump it has an internal screen. If it's a number of screws around the perimeter of the cap of the lift pump it doesn't. And yes, even with no engine mounting bracket in the way that pump mounting screw close to the timing cover is a PITA to get to
Yea it’s a single screw in center. I might try a flex bit to get to it. I’ll see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for all the input BTW Any special fuel additive you would suggest?
Additive is a whole 'nuther topic, opinions are without number, additives to increase lubricity, which one is better, never ending question. Best advice I can offer...keep the tank fuel of fuel at all times to prevent condensation, water is your worst enemy.
Can't remember the torx size for the lift pump (T25, T27?), but it should come off easy. Screen will be full of debris usually that can be brakekleened out, and o-ring will be fine for reinstall.
Where did you get these injectors and from who? This is usually unburned fuel Not good! More than likely that is unburned diesel fuel. A pre-ignition knock maybe? Engine oil is easier to see............diesel not so much. Possibly a leaking injector tip when it sits. I'll take "You bought junk injectors" for $200.00 Alex. I'll also take "You ran the engine like this for too long before fixing the issue" for $400.00 Alex Lastly, I'll take "The ticking noise is the connecting rod bearing starting to come apart because of long term pre-ignition and now your cylinder is out of time" for $800.00 Alex. (or the piston has lost a skirt due to pre-ignition and that's causing the ticking) You really should drain the engine oil and cut open your engine oil filter before you go any further. At least prove me wrong here.
I replaced all the fuel lines, emptied fuel out, and replaced fuel filter. The smoke is mostly gone now. A little bit that’s hard to see. It still has a tick noise. It did have a little pulse going when the throttle is low. I’m still not 100% how you get that filter out of the lift pump. The screw is literally in line with a bracket maybe 1/2” clearance