Hello, I’m new to this thread thing. My name is Alex Stephens. I live in St. Louis Missouri and I have a Tree Service and like all my other equipment it’s junk brought to working condition anyway I have a VERMEER 672 a and it has a Duetz four-cylinder BF1011 and I don’t read German very good so it’s horribly confusing to use the manual that being said I bought the engine off eBay. It was said to be a core non-running when I got it here. I noticed it had a rod bearing that was completely gone, so I also had an engine that was on a grinder for cutting concrete. It was a bit newer of a model though, and it was junk because it must’ve ate dust its entire life and it just had a ridge on all the cylinder walls and it made absolutely no compression so what I did as I took the crankshaft out of It with the rod bearings and the main bearings and the connecting rods and put them in the engine that was an older model that I got that had one rod bearing bad so I kept the Pistons and wrist pins in it and added everything else out of the other engine rotating assembly spins good and it runs fine except it just pours black smoke out so then I found out that that the reason that the rod bearing went bad is somebody must’ve had a bad injection pump cause I noticed the cylinder that had a bad connecting rod. The injection pump was different. It seemed to match the same injection pumps off of the newer model motor I have so I started messing with it ended up taking them all out and kept them in order and kept the shims on them. Anyway, I’m going to get the right injection pump for it and I would like to see if anybody on here could explain the depth measurement for the bottom of the cam lobe to the deck on the block that equation does anybody know that and also they’re supposed to be in I think Taylorville, Illinois or somewhere east of me they’re supposed to be a small engine guy that works on Duetz tractors and Duetz Engines didn’t know if anybody knew that guy on here. I seen his business card at the gas station and didn’t take a picture of it and not just gone so anyway
Welcome to HEF onlytrees12 ! While I can't help you with your specific issue, I noticed all my Deutz manuals are German along side all of the pictorial references, but English is on the next page (without pictures).
I'm not sure a bad unit injector pump would cause a bad rod unless you had a runway engine scenario. Link below explains process to measure for unit injector pump. If you have numbers on the other two you could use that as well. Tech Tip #242: Replacing Your Deutz 1011 & 2011 Injection Pumps - Part 2 Step-by-step guidance for Deutz injection pump replacement on Deutz 1011 and 2011 engines, focusing on correct installation and alignment. www.foleyengines.com
So now I got a problem with the fuel rack because I tightened one of the injection pumps down without the slot that goes in the fuel rack lined up and it bent it so then I had to take the governor case all the way back off and oil pan bolts, and then put the fuel rack out and straighten it with a hammer and a vice so it's probably destroyed, but I put it back in and it's sticky really sticky cause I think it is bent where the openings for the injection pump dowel pen things go anyway at this point I think I'd like to just buy another parts engine or buy some injection pumps and a new rail. Is there anybody on here that sells debts old Duet s parts.
Hope you get it fixed, there must be a rental shop around St.Louis that has someone that has done major work on them. Fuel injection work is close to human surgery for cleanliness and finesse. One thing wrong and you will have a run away and hole in side of block, or dropped valves or both. In case you did not know, you will need the 2 special Deutz timing pins to change out the timing belt also, as who knows how worn out it is. If it was off a tooth or too worn, then lots of smoke. Suggest you get some help. Simon C
Well, I think that there was a bad injection pump on that cylinder and they just ran it for a long time with a misfire or maybe it just was a coincidence that that cylinder that had a bad rod bearing also had the wrong injection pump on it. I honestly don’t know.
But anyway, I’m figuring it out that how precise things have to be to get this thing to run right and I bought the alignment pins or timing pins to put it back into time after I change the crankshaft but as far as the belt tension goes, I don’t have one of those belt tensioner tools so I just kinda gauge it to what I thought that detention should be. I’m sure this isn’t correct way to do this, but I didn’t have that tool so. Anyway, in order to avoid destroying this engine, I think I’m gonna just find somebody that works on them and have them just go over everything I’ve done and pretty much give me assurance that it’s gonna stay alive and not just melt a hole in the piston or do something crazy you know Thanks for the help. I really like this forum page. I’ve always read them, but never been a part of them and I can see how it is very helpful.
So if you can tell the injection pump on the second cylinder from left to right has a silver tag and all the others have a green tag and so that injection pump is the same as the four that were on the engine that I got the crankshaft out of which is a newer model BF 1011 where the block is shaped a bit different for where the injection pumps mount up and the fuel rack is on the top of the injection pumps versus the bottom like how this engine is so they must have a bit taller stroke and that must been all somebody had access to whenever that pump failed and they had to replace it so no I think I’m just gonna buy injection pump that size the right one put it on there use the procedure that the guy had shown me on this for him to measure them and shim them and then I’ll get the rack working right and I guess I’ll try it and see how it runs and if it doesn’t run right I’ll just give up and go ahead and take it to somebody that works on them
Would suggest that next time you are going to tear one apart, get yourself a tooth brush size stainless wire brush, Rub every surface with it vigorously with a small amount of varsol, and wash the whole thing down with a quality varsol gun using varsol or gas. Wear a mask for either, and don't have any sources of cumbustion around, if in a machine all batteries disconnected. It is not the dirtiest I have ever seen but not the cleanest either. Remember every spec of dirt that goes into a motor will pass through the mains and rods or minimum through the oil pump, cause even if it is a little pebble, it will vibrate into dust eventually and into lube system. Hope you get it going, and the timing belt is quite tight when installed with the real tool but some guys have done without. Simon C