Can anyone help identify this trear shear model? The Dymax company could not identify without the name plate, which is gone. I was hoping to get an owner's manual for maintenance. The shear needs some work. The blades do not fully close at the top. I guess this adjustment can be made by loosening the bolts holding blades, and adjusting the blade position with shims behind the blades. Also, the two center pins will only take a small amount of grease. I replaced the zerk fittings, but I still can't get much grease into the pins. Any ideas? Thanks for your help. Carr View attachment 104259 View attachment 104260 View attachment 104259 View attachment 104260 View attachment 104261
What makes you say it's a Dymax ??? ……the Dymax shearing arms were usually a cast steel and not fabricated steel plates unless this is one of their early early models ……. Dymax blade adjustment is made by loosening all bolts and if you look underneath the arms (bottom) you should see that the front and rear bolts have an adjustable tapered head …. the more you pull (tighten) the bolts the closer the blades come together ….. then you snug the other nuts up try the blades gap by closing the arms and fine tune them as needed….. don't make the blades touch leave a very small gap to prevent binding of blades incase of excess pin play due to wear ……… As far as the pins not taking grease, pulling them apart and cleaning out the grease journals …… usually just hard dried up grease Keep us in the loop how you make out ….. Cheers ! … good-luck
On one of the pictures, there is a "D" shaped logo, so I assumed it was Dymax. I know what you are talking about when you say the new Dymax shears are cast steel, not fabricated plates like this shear has. I sent pictures to Dyman to see if they could identify the shear so I could get an owner's manual- no luck, I guess the shear is too old. I will check to see if the front and rear bolts have tapered heads for adjustment. Thanks for you help.
I have given up on identifying the shear. Dymax apparently does not know about this shear. I am focusing on doing some maintenance. The two center pivot pins will not accept any grease. I removed grease fittings, cleaned grease out of the pins ( the grease looked pretty good-no clay), I could feel the hole for the grease to move out of the pins with a bent piece of wire (impossible to clean out good because the diameter of the grease cavity is about 3/8" tops and 6" deep). Filled the grease cavity with PB blaster, and pressurized with compressed air for over an hour. No PB fluid leaked out around the pin where I should see grease. Still stopped up. I filled up the pins with PB blaster again-maybe if it sits for 3-4 days it will break up some of the grease. I did remove two of the pins that move the blades at the front of the shear. These pins would take grease. I could beat these pins out from the bottom of the shear. My thought are that it just does not seem to be a very effective way to get grease around a pin- 3/16" hole on one side of the pin. It seems like the manufacturer should at least drill two holes, 180 degrees apart to get a lot of grease on both sides of the pin if it really needs a thorough coating of grease. A problem with the two center pins that will not take grease is that there is a plate welded to the bottom of the pins, they will only come out from the bottom. I can only beat them out through the top, which will jack up the threads. Plus, I could only get one nut off, and I stripped some threads taking that nut off. The other nut is stuck good. Big nuts too, the nut requires a 2 1/4" socket to fit the head of the nut. If the pins do not start flowing grease, I will have to take it to a heavy equipment shop to redo the pins. This an old shear, I don't know all of its history. Moral of the story-keep pins on all equipment flowing with grease. thanks for looking at this post.