Hi, I have a 2014 international 4400 with an Eaton 10 speed transmission. The truck has 120,000 miles and is new to me. I’ve never owned or driven a truck with this tranny or anything similar other than my ‘46 Chevy with a 4 speed crash box I studied up on the clutch adjustment and the clutch brake. On inspection I saw that the clutch brake could use replacing but the main thing I saw was way too much space between the throw out bearing and the clutch. I have the adjusting tool and when I have the proper pedal free play, the space is too much, and when I adjust the space, I have a pedal on the floor. I’ve read that I shouldn’t mess with the pedal linkage, but it’s either that or the clutch is shot. Anyone have an idea of what’s going on here? Thanks for any help you might give.
Make the internal adjustment first using the adjusting tool so there is a 1/2" to 9/16" gap between clutch brake and TO bearing. Then set the linkage for 1 1/2" to 2" free play. You can not reach proper adjustment without the correct gap between TO bearing and clutch brake. Then fine tune it from there to achieve proper clutch brake at bottom of pedal arc. And your clutch could also be at the end of it's internal adjustment.
Hold on a minute, if this is a pull type clutch, and I assume it would be with an Eaton 10 speed, clutch ring adjustment has nothing to do with the adjustment that contacts the clutch brake on the tranny input shaft. If that's the type of setup you have, the first thing you have to do is adjust the external linkage of the clutch linkage to make the clutch release bearing contact the clutch brake pad when the clutch pedal is about 3/4 to 1" off of the floor stop. Once you get that adjusted proper, then you adjust the clutch ring until you get about 1" free play of the clutch pedal at the top of pedal movement. At least that's the way I'm reading your question.
Single or double disc clutch? Huge difference in adjustment. Stamped clutch cover or cast?
Read the instructions provided with a Eaton clutch. If the gap is too wide adjusting the linkage first will do no good, the linkage adjustment will have to be reset after internal adjustment is made. When finished the clutch brake gap should be 1/2" and the gap on clutch fork tangs to throw out bearing 1/8" with twin disc clutch. That procedure of adjusting linkage first has been wrong from the git-go, i don't know where that came from. I have probably installed over 400 pull types in my years. Adjusting linkage first then setting internal will cause the clutch to release to high on pedal travel plus throw out bearing will barley make contact with clutch brake. The 1/2 gap has to set first. Anyone need a tutoring buy a plane ticket and I will be glad to show them.
Thanks for all your replies! I have the clutch adjusting tool and when I got the proper clearances by turning the clutch adjustment bolt, there was 4 inches of pedal travel. When the travel is 1 inch I have 1-1/4” of space at the throw out bearing. The clutch doesn’t slip and I assume the linkage came properly adjusted from the factory so I’m wondering what could be causing this problem. Worn pressure plate? Thanks again.
If at all possible please post a picture of what your pressure plate looks like. As stated before there are different adjustment clearances for different clutches we would assume the fact you have a 10 speed dictates that you have a double disk clutch but you may have a single disk clutch. The fact that you are running with a 4400 says that you may have either one I'm guessing you have A DT 466 or Max force engine in there I doubt anything larger.
A couple of times I have seen somebody set the external first and yank the release sleeve out of the clutch, probably an overground flywheel. If you set the internal first that will not happen. The clutch may not last as long as it should as far as adjustment but it wont fail on the first push.
Or they know the hide on the clutch brake is gone and the clutch is out of adjustment so they keep using it over extending the release sleeve. They shift to first and hold the clutch down at a stop light and the sleeve yanks through or the snap ring retaining the throw out bearing gives way-the pedal goes to the floor clutch locks up and through the red light they go or into the back of a car. Know of a hay hauler that happen too, you know him also RZ.
I found the build sheet for the truck and it’s a 14” dual disc clutch.
Ok. Now that that has been cleared up the info provided has been 100% correct. Release bearing clearance to brake 1/2 -9/16" . 1/8" clearance fork to bearing. Once you've established clearance, adjust pedal linkage to give 2- 2.5" free travel with the clutch brake being contacted 1/2" off the floor. You'll be good to go. Why do you believe your clutch brake needs replacement? Does it free spin on the shaft or is it just a bit sloppy?
I have noticed difficulty in braking the shaft at a stop on occasion so I looked into how the thing works and ended up here. One of the YouTube videos I watched said that you should never have to touch the linkage for an adjustment, so here I am. Thanks all for you helP.
Clevis, pins and bell cranks wear. As they do, linkage adjustment is needed to take up slop. Sitting still, parking brake set. You should be able to push the clutch to the floor, stop the shaft and select a gear. If it grinds, and you can't feel the brake engagement at the bottom, you gotta see if you can turn the brake on the shaft by hand. If the brake is in tact, have someone press the pedal while you hold a piece of paper between the release bearing and the brake. If it grips the paper when they push the pedal down, your adjustment is correct. If you can rotate the brake on the shaft, it is broken and needs replacement. If the shaft continues to turn with the pedal all the way down squeezing the brake then the pilot bearing is probably stuck.
Good added info FWF.
And one more note, pushing the pedal to the floor while moving will tear the tangs off the clutch brake, if using a clutch to shift only push the pedal down half of it's full stroke. Then there is the panic stop where the pedal is slammed down through the floor board insuring instant death to the clutch brake.
Great point about the tangs. I haven’t reached in and checked the but just assumed that since the facings looked good all was well. I’ll check it out tomorrow and let you all know. The truck only had 130k on it and still looks new which is why I was doubting linkage wear, but it’s looking like that’s the only possible answer. Also, it looks like a real fun project getting at it. Thanks.
Just remember what JFK said, We don't do things because there easy we do them because there hard.
Good info at this thread.