I have a charging problem on my machine in that the battery isnt charging,the green all systems go light comes on initially then the battery light starts to flash in tune with the hour counter then the green light goes out and the red light stays on all the time. Ive had the alternator off and its been checked 14 amps,but when its checked with the machine running its only putting out 11.8 amps. What could be the matter? I had a problem earlier in the year when it was eating 40a fuses but have changed the ignition switch and removed the light wires to the switch, thought that problem was cured could this be connected?
with key switch on there should be 12 volts at green wire at alternator. if not check alternator relay or green wire, or there is a plug in connector for this circuit.
The alternator on the 1845C should be a 65amp alternator. So when you say you have 14 amps off the machine and 11.8 on the machine I can assume you are talking volts. This said I am betting your field wire has no voltage to it. Remove the field wire from the alternator, turn the key on , connect the red test lead of the volt meter to the wire, connect the black test lead to a good ground. You should have a min 10volts. If not you have no field voltage thus the alternator will not charge. I am betting that on that model it is one of the connector on the engine harness. They were notorious for corroding they are a "bullet style " connector. Check them .....hope this helps
had a check today next to no power with the lead off .15v,any clues on where to find the other end of the wire!! Thanks for the info so far!!!
i would go to the alternator relay located in engine compartment. Check for voltage at green wire like gg graham state connector could be problem or relay . There are some wiring change depending on ser #
The alternator relay should be behind the instrument panel. The field wire goes to the relay and the relay controls the light on the panel as well as completes the circuit to send power to the field wire. The relay may have just come unplugged.
A general technique to find the other end of the wire is to 1) turn off the machine, 2) disconnect the battery (or at least the positive terminal of the battery), 3) set your VOM to measure either resistance (Ohms) or continuity, 4) keep one of the meter leads connected to the end of the wire and 5) disconnect "suspected" wires, usually of the same color but not always, one by one and test with the other lead of meter. This is easier if your meter has a buzzer for continuity. If not, you'll have the same wire if the continuity or resistance reads zero. To confirm these are the correct reading for your meter, first simply hold the to leads touching each other.
Ha d little look yesterday and found the relay took it off put it back on no change although a couple of the connectors looked a little black! Found another at a local place second hand because he didnt have a new one put that on and the green light came on for a few minutes the the red light reappeared,the green warning light pulsed with the hour counter if that makes sense,broken wire? any other ideas
You'll have better success if you proceed methodically. There are a few good suggestions but you seem to want a magic/quick fix. It makes little sense to just replace relays and see what happens. In fact, it seems you have a failure that is damaging your relay and you'll need a third before you find THAT problem. That said, we've all wanted the magic/quick fix but experience is an unforgiving teacher. So, I'm not berating you as I've done the same in similar circumstances, I'm encouraging you to follow the advice given methodically so you can enjoy a substantial and long-term repair that, incidentally, will likely be less expensive than the replace/try method in both time and money. I don't have a Case 1845c nor the wiring diagram. However, from reading this thread, I gather that you've verified the symptom gggraham highlighted; low field voltage at the alternator. In fact, at .15V, I'd guess the prime suspects are 1) a loose or open ground connection, maybe between the battery and the engine (gives weird voltage readings due to a floating ground and can be difficult to diagnose), or 2) loose or corroded connections to the field voltage wire (creating a strange higher resistance/low voltage). I know you've also stated there is a rhythm timed to the hour meter but we don't know a) are they coincidentally "timed" together because of the same underlying fault or b) are they effecting each other without regard to an underlying fault. Also, I don't know what "dark" connections on a relay means without more information. It is simple to check a relay with a resistance or continuity meter. Just note what connections are either open or closed with and without 12V applied across the coil. That will yield some more useful information. That a replacement relay may be failing like the original is, at this point, just a guess without diagnostic information. Here's what I'd suggest to do next: A) physically verify a good ground between the negative battery terminal and the engine by making sure those connections are secure and then disconnecting the positive battery cable, using a resistance/continuity meter to verify a the good ground between the negative battery terminal and the engine block, B) find and tape (for identification) both ends of the field voltage wire (you may begin by assuming a consistent color code), so if the wire you measured for .15V was green, you should start with the green wire(s) at the relay and use the technique I posted above - if you find none, you're likely onto a broken wire, C) when you find the relay connection to the field voltage wire, reconnect the battery and just as you checked the voltage on that wire, check the voltage at that relay terminal - if the voltage is 10V or higher, your wire is likely corroded or loose, -if the voltage is low, check the voltage on the relay terminal that is connected through the relay to the field voltage wire (you'll KNOW which terminal because you will have already tested/diagramed the relay) and if THAT voltage is 10V or higher, your relay is likely bad but if that voltage is low, your failure occurs beyond (actually, before) the relay. I can go on, but you get the idea. Use this methodology and you shall find the problem and finally fix it. Also, because I don't have time/space to be exhaustively detailed here, please post what you learn and I'm sure everyone who can, will be glad to give further advice.
thankyou for the detailed reply I shall have another go over the next few days,and see what i find out.Shall disconnect the earth and clean things up and go from there. How can i test the earth between engine and battery?
with key in the on position only, not running, check "R " terminal on alternator....should have only 3 volts or less...more is bad.....possiable diode trio...bad..causeing bled off.. just a suggestion...peace out...
Testing Earth/Ground connection between battery and engine First, disconnect the positive side of the battery. Next, check the physical stuff for the grounding. I do (probably over-do) this by removing ground/earth lead at the battery, cleaning that battery connection and the lead connection, and re-attaching the lead to the battery. That way I know the connection is proper. I then will trace the ground/earth lead from the battery terminal to the engine where it is usually attached with a bolt. I remove the bolt, clean everything and re-attach. If you prefer, if the connects are tight upon initial inspection, you may opt to skip this part but, like I wrote, I over-do it and know these are proper. Finally, use your resistance or continuity meter and, placing one probe on the battery ground/earth terminal (NOT the cable, but the actual terminal that is part of the battery) and placing the other probe somewhere on the engine block, you should confirm that the grounding is proper. There must be zero resistance or perfect continuity.
Finally got the job sorted,tested the earth as described,checked all the leads no joy gave someone a call who came with a bit more kit (tested the relay and field wire etc ) turned out to be a wire in the control box in the cab. Thankyou for all who gave me some tips.
to lostinfrance hi. i am new to this thread and wondering if you could help me out as i have exactly the same problem with case skidsteeer not charging the battery and shutting the engine down after 10-15 seconds. most likely it is something wrong in the control panel as the alternator have been tested to be ok. the relay behind the panel was tested faulty. anyone knows how is it wired into the circuit? would anyone have electrical schematic? as ignition switch was also removed by incompetent person before and wires could be mixed up on it. to lostinfrance- you wouldn't know which exactly wire was it in the panel or ignition switch? thanks to everyone.