I have a 91 ford 575D backhoe. The engine shut down while it was running. When I crank it over it seems a little too easy to spin. I haven't had a bit of trouble with it before. Any ideas on where to start looking.
crack a line loose at an injector, see if you have fuel. Does it shut off with the key, or a cable? If the key, it's probably electrical, somewhere in the circuit to the fuel cut off.
More than likely electrical issue like mitch says, we have the next smaller model down and the stock wiring is atrocious, could also be burned out kill solenoid on the injector pump.
When you say it's a little too easy to spin it makes me think it's not getting any air.
So far as I know these do not have an air kill... however I guess something could have come loose and blocked the intake... or ..... for some reason the camshaft may have quit spinning
It was the fuse to the injector pump. Thanks for getting me in the right direction. I wondered about the cam not spinning. I didn't know if the valves would hit the piston on this engine. Thanks again.
If I remember right.... this is an interference engine... had the head off last year and am pretty sure the valves would get bent.... well pretty sure... I'll have to look see if I took pics of the head
On the fuse thing you might want to check the wire running to the solenoid on the injector pump make sure it doesn't have a bare spot in the insulation somewhere that could allow it to short to ground and blow the fuse, have seen this happen on ours.
Good idea to check the wire. Something had to make the fuse go. I wonder how often the timing chain should be changed.
Fuse could just have blown from age.... is there anything else on the circuit... maybe lights added later on? Don't remember a chain... gears I think...
Most heavy duty diesels are gear driven timing. Most diesels are interference engines because of the compression ratio. If the camshaft isn't turning it will still have compression on one or two cylinders most likely, unless all the valves broke. So it would have an uneven cranking sound. The air gets shut off by a collapsed hose or filter, or a rats nest getting sucked in. That will make an engine crank faster. If the engine usually starts right away then you never hear how fast the starter will get it going, except when it's extremely cold and the battery doesn't have the power to crank it as fast then.
^^ Couldn't have said it better myself,Thanks Delmer
Thanks Delmer. I was thinking that too with compression on 1 or 2 cylinders that would uneven cranking. Also not knowing how fast it cranks because it starts right away. It did blow the fuse again very quickly. I am wondering if the component on the injector pump that the wire connects to is causing it to blow. The wire looks good as far as I can see. Have any of you guys had that happen?
Hi Niguy61, the component on the IP is just an electromagnetic coil to hold open the shutoff mechanism inside the IP ,it is possible the coil is taking more current than it should if part of it is shorting to ground or itself.... not likely...but possible... what size fuse is blowing? I can't remember how much the coil takes but could find out if no one else on here knows.
Yeah, more likely the wiring harness is at fault than the coil. You could try checking the resistance of the coil, I'll guess more than 5 ohms? Easy enough to figure out what the minimum resistance is to keep the amps below the fuse rating. volts/ohms=amps or something like that.
Its a 5A fuse. I disconnected the wire from the coil and turned on the key for about 5 minutes and it never blew. Then I put the wire on the coil with the key still on and it arced and blew the fuse. I'm thinking it is the coil.
You could/can trace the wires & find the chaff or , on some older models the guts come out of the solenoid & just use the manual shut-off on the pump.. just an easy way to keep workin..
Yep, sounds like you have it figured out. It's still possible it's outside the coil itself even if it's inside the pump. You'll know once you have it apart.
They want $130 for the new solenoid. Anybody know of a less expensive on line source or a used part source. I only use this machine occasionally on my own property so I don't want to put much money in it if I don't have too.
I love your idea of taking the guts out. I was able to take out what looks like a plunger and a spring but I am afraid to start it because I don't know if I will be able to shut it off. Is there a way?
yes.. you see the throttle shaft?? follow the top cover to the other end, towards the fan.. that little lever is the MANUAL shut off lever.. all ya gotta do is hook a "choke cable" to it or a coat hanger/wire.. I have a solenoid.. is it a 1 wire or 2..??
This site doesn't offer an "email" option anymore so if you wanna contact me just put an> a o l dot com after my screen name.
You referred to a manual shutoff on the pump. There is a rotating piece that the throttle linkage connects to. There is another piece just under that that you can rotate by hand. Is that the shutoff?
Sorry. I didn't see your reply and I asked a question that you just answered. Thanks.
1 wire.
Anyone know how I can get a wiring schematic for this. There are various wires here and there that are undone and I would like to fix them.
what's not working that you want fixed?
I have not noticed anything not working. I just don't like to see loose wires that had been connected to something.
snip em off
So you're THAT guy, Delmer??
LOL ^^^^^ I think I have ran into some of your machines Delmer
Not mine, the loose wires don't bother me one bit if there's nothing for them to go to, don't they come that way from the factory?
Yeah, just kidding No, the stock wiring on these machines is ridiculous... most of it is routed somewhere it shouldn't be and a lot of them have harness failures so people end up running bypass wires just to do the basics. Most of the non-connected wires are for extra lights/options your machine didn't come with from the factory and a few for tests but instead of binding them off or tape then up they just leave em' hanging here an there.