Looking to buy a universal wet sleeve puller is the Kent Moore pt-6400 the one to get?? If you have any shop build pictures of sleeve pullers post them up, would like to see some.
This is one we had where I worked: http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product_info.php/products_id/168102?gclid=CLC2wrHilcgCFYmRHwodwy4Nsg Link is used just to show the picture and the model number. I believe we got ours from a local bearing supply house years ago. Most of the time did not need to use the slide hammer part as once the seals are pulled free they usually lift out pretty easy. If you already have a slide hammer might be able to purchase the puller with out one? I like the fact that the OTC has a three leg grabber as opposed to the two legs of the Kent Moore, no real experience with the Kent Moore but seems the three legs would be a little more stable and self centering.
I have never used or seen any thing but a shop built ones. The one i used the most was a length of 1inch allthread it had a 1/2inch hole drilled throught one end. I have some 3/4 aluminum plate that i machined circles to fit the sleeve i cut them so they can be turned sideways and put down through the sleeve from the top. The sleeve plate has a 3/4 hole were a bolt gos through screws to a nut that has straps welded to it with 1/2inch holes to pin to all thread. The top plate were the all thread pulled from had 3 pipe legs. Sorry i dont have any pictures.
earthscracher that one you have the part number for is the one I have and it works great
I would think hard before spending $500+ on something simple like this , your $$$ might be better spent on a 30 ton hollow cylinder and pump and just making up the bridge kit and base plates with a bit of good thread bar, then you can tackle wet or dry liners, I must have fitted in my lifetime around 500+ liners using made up junk to pull and push them home, spend your money on something more worth while is my thought. We are all our own master. tctractors
Ive got a really old one that hasn't got any identification. I think its a army surplus one. Mine uses a 1 inch fine thread bolt and has a thrust washer . its pretty easy to use. slow as a snail but will remove the stuck frozen sleeves very easily. Ive also used it to remove and install bushings.
I also agree with the "shopmade" way to go. A friend of mine has a very old twin cylinder OTC model (17Ton?) liner puller assembly that I have used in the past, but I think that most of the kit is fitted to work on the block deck and not much use for other "non flat" tasks. I have an old 20 ton hollow ram and a length of 1" allthread that gets used for quite a few different tasks including pulling sleeves. Most liner plates are fabbed as needed, then get stamped and put on the shelf after the job is done and all of the tooling is very multipurpose. I guess you have to do the math and figure if you are further ahead by making your own shop tools or save time buying manufactured tooling. Regards, Bob
Cat sells a very heavy duty one but it's pricey. I finally bought one after making up adapters and pullers for different size liners for years . It makes pulling any size liner about a 2 minute job . You can use an impact on it too. Part number 5P8665
Well the one I posted was bought with company money so it's not REAL MONEY! And We did go the homemade route for years but sometimes finding the scrap material to make them with was a problem. Did have a real nice homemade tool to hold the 17 ton OTC ram to pull the dry sleeves out of the Mack 6 cylinder engines. For pulling bushings out of loader arms and hydraulic cylinders once we got a good second hand lathe, I did have a large selection of homemade plates work the treat to push the ones in to the right distance for the seals. Just machined in a step the right distance then push away till it stopped and good to go. And yes better to save the money for important stuff like a pint of good ale at the pub! $500. will buy a goodly amount of that!
Sure do ..... This one has served me well over the years . Used a shear bar out of a New Holland forage chopper for the frame and base plate . 1/2 inch all thread for the puller . It works . LOL!
Mine looks sorta like Td25c's. Used a 3 jaw setup from a small slide hammer kit, Piece of B7 all thread that fit it 5/8x11?? Scrap metal for the bridge and a big truck lug nut with a couple washers. Turns em right out for small money.
I have used at least 3 different styles. The current one I like the best, it is universal two leg made by Monaco tool company in Oregon. Quality is top notch, function has never failed me. Tio
This may be the tool that Monaco tool builds? Very close to same design....TIO
It looks like Kent-Moore tools actually builds the one for Cat. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-...hash=item2a593d68e2&item=181885823202&vxp=mtr
That is it. It is very well built but about 1000 bucks from Cat.
Just yesterday I popped out the wet liners from a CAT 3304, this was by hollow cylinder, all thread and a few bits of junk that I chucked into my truck, the only thing I had to do from underneath was pop on the nut a few threads,then the bottom nut locates into locks so I can turn the rod from the top of the block to catch a full depth of nut thread, I have about 20 liner pulling base plates made out of old junk that I also can use to install the liners, I would love to see the $1000 2 or 3 leg puller do that, those fancy pullers are a "Total Waste of Money" it might take me 10 mins more (if that) to do the task but I charge for my time so even if I had 1 it would stay in the Tool Box, I will post a few snaps of the engine strip out in my usual slot soon, plus I can use the hollow cylinder on lots of other tasks, the fancy liner puller is only good to pull WET LINERS and is best left hanging on a nail some place, this is just my thoughts after 45 years working on Equipment so I just might be wrong. tctractors
Yair . . . Well I have to admit I have used nothing more elaborate than a piece of flatbar welded to a piece of chain, dangle it down the hole centre it and, using a piece of timber for a fulcrum, pop them with a crowbar. I can't see it ever justified big dollars back then . . . may be different these days with lots of different engines. Cheers.
I totally see your point about being a waste of money and I too have cobbled together so many different homemade tools that got the job done at the time but now that I have a good puller I love using it. I just allow for the fact that it saves me about 20 minutes per engine by the time you allow for finding all the parts setting up and putting it all away. Just work it into your billing and it pays for itself and the customer doesn't pay any more in the end. I'm not sure why you would want to charge your customer for extra time and leave the proper tool " stay in the toolbox"
Mobiltech, I do this sort of work to earn my living the Customer will pay me nothing extra or care less if I use 1 of those £1'000 tools or a part of my body to knock out the liners, so rather than get oil on my plumbing I think I will stick to the more useful and more universal tooling that never seems to wear out, I have had a few D8 - D9 liners that have been tough to pull that would make that $1'000 gizmo bend its knees some, anyhow if you could help me understand the "Just Work it into Your Billing" thing? well I do O.K. by copping 10 or 15 mins extra $$$ for using my tooling that half of it is off the junk heap, if I pull another 100 wet liners before I hit the junk heap,it will cost me $10 a liner, the coins just fail to stack up in favour of spending out on something that can only pull Wet Liners, my junk can also pull and press in Dry Liners, so my bit of junk is so much better in all tasks that I think you might do well to sell your "Proper Tool" and put the Coins in your pocket. using my junk??? tctractors
what I mean by work it into your billing is that I charge the same time as you would using the makeshift tooling but I'm done sooner with the right tool and moving on to anther job sooner. Does that make it clearer? It's not much different then any of the tools we use like cordless tools that save time in the fact that you don't have to drag out air hoses and clean them up. They get the job done faster so we can do more work in a day which in the end means more money for you and your customer.
See these pullers do work good.obviously they're not all expensive junk.
Mobiltech, I will admit to being a bit of a knacker as I only use power tools if the Customer is providing the air supply, the Cell powered nut runners again need to be owned by the Customer and given to me to use on their task because I don't spend Money to earn less, I only have air tools but I will not supply a compressor to drive them as that again is up to the Customer to supply, my jobs are usually at least a full day so getting off 10 mins faster and charging the Customer 10 mins less is not something that is going to happen, I would never be interested in doing more work in a day to earn more money for me and my Customer, as I do enough work in the 7 days that are in my working week, I will admit that on Sundays I try to have an easy task that might take 4 to 6 hours to finish, but its not about how fast I do a task its about getting it done that is the important issue, as you would expect after doing this Job for many years the speed and knowledge of how to manage a task is the thing that lets me run circles around the "Young Dudes" plus having the correct kit to tackle the jobs I come against puts me into a good spot, Tio has some real good kit and credit to him he Gets on Well, the fact that he has a fancy Gismo that he likes after 3 attempt's is not a surprise, my junk puller has never failed me and has worked perfect from the 1st time used so I could say its Top Notch, I will post some pictures soon of a few nasty jobs I have tackled this month on my own by myself that might explain the way things roll in the U.K. tctractors Living the Dream???
Tc i think from what your saying is that you charge by the hr most if us here charge by the job with added cost if we run into problems .where you do a job for say 10 hrs and charge x if you get done in 9 you loose money when do a job i give a price if it takes me 10 ok but if i get done in5 same price as that's the price i gave so if air comp or a puller takes 10 min off a job =more jobs more money
Ohiofleet, we are all different and all do things in our odd little way, I don't think I could give a fixed price for any job that I do, on Dozer F/Drives there is the bit you cannot see like the top pinion that can make a mess of a weekend, on engine rebuilds what are you going to find when the pan drops? on transmissions you only find out how dogged up it is when you start heaping up the bits as its stripped, I could go on but giving people a price to do "what" change a headlight? I don't ever do that sort of work, the other day I was asked to sort a little loose bolt on an Extec Crusher, when you see the pictures boy they will make you smile, I never do jobs that 10 mins is going to make any odds to my day or the amount I can scratch up into my pocket, popping out liners from an engine is only a small % of the work within any engine repair and spending anything over the price of a good thread bar is money totally wasted in my sad mind, I can recall a thread about hollow rams, the question was double acting or spring return, everyone said that the double acting cylinder was the way to go at more than double the cost, Why would you need a double acting hollow cylinder??? I don't understand??? I have about 10 of them and use them constantly so I should know the job? tctractors
we do all do things are own way byt when a customer calls and ask you have to have a price cant just say go to the bank and see if you can get a loan now .so you give a price and go from there just a different horse
ohiofleet, I don't work for anyone that needs to go to "The Bank" to pay my Bill, and I never get asked to price any job other than on a time and distance travel agreed set deal for the shift. tctractors
TC better stay clear of the outfit I retired from! They require minimum of three quotes for everything from a new cutting edge for a 980G to a complete rebuild on a motor. Of course all the smart people are careful to load the estimate with so many disclaimers they are not worth the paper they are written on. Used to be if we had someone we knew did good work, say welding and line boring bucket pin holes we could just call them up and say when can you do this job. He might say bring it over and we will get someone on it the day after tomorrow. Now need to try to find three people who will take the time to look over the job. Then wait while they work up a quote. Next submit the three quotes to upper management and wait for them to find time in their so called busy schedule to look at them and eventually make a decision. Then when you call up the "winner of the bid" he says, I've got a three week lead time right now so call again the end of the month. All this to avoid possibly paying a couple dollars more to someone you know does good work in a timely manor. I sometimes think it's really because some of the uppers are so busy looking for kick backs they think everyone is that way so they have to protect the share holders from the workers.
kshansen, this messing about with Quotes to put a light bulb in etc is not the common thing here in the U.K. I do work for large quarrys that just tell me to get it sorted, I have to keep the Manager informed if I hit any snags, plus the fact he drives around the sites daily and needs to know the state of play with the equipment to hand, but never other than a ballpark idea on labour cost is asked on the odd occasion, some jobs can be worth £5'000 plus to me in labour only, I am trusted to get on with the task with anything upto a CAT 330 at my disposal to use as I need, none of my regular customers ever ask me to quote now't, if they did I would never take a dip on the coins as the price would be "A Good U'n" its more than an Ocean between the U.K. and the U.S. it would seem. tctractors
Yair . . . tctractors works the way we used to work down here in the "colonies". Sadly I'm afraid the tried and proven is giving way to the "Americanisation" of our environment . . . to our detriment I might add. As I have mentioned on here before . . . competent people with suitable equipment working at a reasonable hourly rate has always been the fairest system. Generally I refused to spend time working the numbers to come up with a quote or tender price. For those that insisted it was an educated guess, double it and add a third . . . and I got my share of those, which shows the stupidity of those who called the shots. Cheers.
the trust factor is gone, when I first started every thing was hourly,now 90% is bid out.for some reason every body wants a fixed price.lets see some pics of liners being pulled
Another thing is the long lead times to get a decision from "management"! I'm sure some here will recall me posting about a D9 that felt the need to relive itself of #1 connecting rod back in January of this year. Well happened to be talking to the guy who got dumped on with doing the maintenance work at the quarry. Seems the plant supervisors boss has decided it was time to get started on pulling the engine to see about getting it patched up. That's actually not too bad only 8+ months to make a decision! Have to wonder if the other D9 that we found the transmission falling out of has developed a problem??? The guy doing the job might need to build one of TC's liner pullers when he is stripping the block. How's that for getting back on topic?
I am still laughing at Scrub Pullers Wet Liner Kit, what was it a bit of stick and a chain, I love it. tctractors
Yair . . . We were only talking about such rough bush antics the other day. Going off topic but it may be of passing interest, one of the boys jogged my mind that when doing finals on the cable blade Allis's we used to undo the diagonals and outboard bearings, pop the corner of a second tractors blade on top of the tree pusher for a bit of extra weight and suck them nose down/*** up with the PCU, saved a lot of jacking as we never removed the trackframes. Always blocked and made them safe of course. Cheers.
ok after using both of these setups thru hole ram and all thread or the 500 dollar unit. I figured in three engine sleeve pulls the 500 dollar unit will pay for itself plus I will not be has tired from going up and down under equipment. a guy could build one pretty easy
the last pic is a home made sleeve pusher to send it home a little easier
I use the old style 3 leg 17.5 ton otc with the appropriate pulling slug made on the lathe or a modified power pack puller from cat. I have the baby one for pulling power packs on the 10 liter sized cats, jast add some belting squares to make up the diameter on larger bore engines, and I have the one for pulling 6.25 bore cats apart. Worth the money in effort and time saved. Love them. I would buy the 3176 first as its pretty versatile, 1u9593. Not sure whats different about the 3306 puller, as the e176 one does nust fine.
Missed this thread somehow. As is usually the case though, Scrub Puller's view seems to line right up with mine. Only thing I might add is the "competent person" must also be HONEST for the equation to work out. 99% of my work is hourly. I dislike bid work for the fact that there is always that chance that some unknown is going to make you lose your ***. Yeah, you always figure a contingency. Yeah, you should know enough about your work to give an accurate bid. But, I would much rather earn my jobs based on reputation and honesty instead of being the best guesser. Just like tctractors as well I guess. Long way from pullers, LOL.
Yair . . . Shimmy1 You are spot on there with the "HONEST" comment. We always used printed and bound log books with duplicate pages . . . the customer got the original complete with, misspelling and the oily fingerprints ands scrawling calculations of uneducated men. There were columns for start/stop/reason for stop/time for run and total time for day. With two three machines working on the same chain they usually balanced with in five minutes per day . . . tractors were charged out by the minute but only when they were working. There was a huge amount of resistance from operators to the system. They were unused to doing basic bookwork and some were genuinely at sea with such simple calculations. Most persevered and I can even remember one you bloke reckoned it was good because it made him better at doing "sums". Now I really taken the thread O/T. (wry grin) Cheers.
I agree with this totally. Had a customer ask for a bid to inframe a 12V71T Detroit in a large scraper.... upon teardown it was obvious the upper and lower cylinder bores on the left front 3 cylinders had shifted. Meaning the block was basically junk and it would turn into a complete out of frame job. They wanted me to stick to the inframe quote. They were told to get stuffed. Later(3weeks) they called back, and said just do what it takes. Last "quote" I'll ever do.
using the thru hole 30 ton ram after I lined everything up crawled underneath the tractor, center up block, tightened down, it was 20 min for me I know I am slow not near has fast has tc tractor.so roughly 2 hrs. this gadget would pop all six in 15 min.the cat guy is 135.00 an hour not including drive time. so for me it paid for itself easily and now will hang on a nail above the bench.LOL I am mainly a seat sitter first mechanic 2nd, but i am to cheap to pay for a mechanic, because i would like to learn how it works. probably why tc stopped answering all my constant questions on his p.m.LOL the Heavy equipment forum is a great place
I popped out 8 liners on a 16 litre V8 Scania 620HP on Tuesday, it took all of about 45 mins using my tuppeny junk and a hollow ram, I would not waste £50 on something I can fab up in a few moments, a Vee engine is tricky to in frame as all the kit wants to fall off the block face but its simple to sort, we all do things our own way and sadly I am to close to a hole to change now, the important bit is to have a seat cut in the bottom plate that fits into the liner bore, this plate I drop down the bore and get to sit on the crank, then drop my cylinder, top plate, pillars and thread rod down catching the bottom plate, then stuff on the bottom nut job done, and £500 still in my pocket. tctractors