Hi guys, I recently purchased a 2012 Case Cx80 excavator with an Esco pingrabber quick release system. The machine came with a 24" bucket and the teeth are worn out and need to be replaced. The problem is I cannot seem to remove the teeth. The dealer has been absolutely no help in identifying the style of teeth. I have it narrowed down to the super V style or the VertiLok style. Both have side pins that I can drive out, just can't get the darn teeth off of the shafts. Tried heat, sledge hammer and pipe wrenches. It seems the super V slides on and off and the Vertilok has a 1/4 turn twist off and on. Either way, cannot seem to get these darn things off. Any suggestions other than buying a CAT would surely be appreciated. Thanks, Bob
If you're facing the bucket, the Super V has the retainer pin on the right side of the tooth, and the Super V requires a 1/4 turn CCW to remove. The Vertilok uses either a horse shoe retainer or a retainer pin and tension plug, the retainer pin is on the left on the Vertilok. Could you post some pics of your teeth and the retainer pin?
Cat used the ESCO system also. Have you been working in soft clay? The tooth pocket fills up with dirt and won't let the tooth turn enough to twist off. We used to curl the bucket up so the teeth were pointing straight up and then hitting them with a four pound hammer. The dirt will loosen eventually and drop out of the pocket. When you see the tooth starting to move on the shank they usually come off easy.
Torch.
Thank you guys for your replies. So the torch was tried until I had the teeth glowing red. When looking at the teeth, the pins are located on the right side of the tooth and drive straight out. The are a metal wedge style pin about and 1 1/4" long. And yes, working in clay type soil. I have taken the pins out and have dug 4 foundations without the retainer pins in hoping that I would hit a rock just right and a tooth would fall off. No such luck. I will grab a picture today and get it posted.
Here are pics of the teeth. They are printed Esco v18ty.
I just reworked some buckets and change out a total of 16 teeth and 6 shanks. This was the H&L series 23 style. None of the teeth wanted to move, so with a 7" angle, ground out a corner of each. Then they moved, with a touch and prying up a side. Howard
No matter what style, it a tip won't come off be VERY wary of hitting it with a hammer. They work harden and chips will fly off. I personally saw a man have a piece of ripper boot go through his jeans, his socks and embed itself into his calf. Just fire up the oxy and cut it off.
Do not take what Cmark says lightly, I whacked a tooth with a hammer about a month ago and a piece shot off and promptly lodged itself in my arm, thankfully it was still sticking out enough to grab but about 1/4 inch or more was in my arm. All I thought was "thank god it wasn't my eye...." Will not be doing that again. If you torch em off just be mindful to stay near the edges so you don t fuss up the shank. Those do twist on and off, I believe a 1/4 turn counterclockwise is SUPPOSED to remove em. They are good teeth though, I have that style tooth on a 12000 lb machine and haven't lost a tooth in 4500 hours or so....
From what I see in the photos those teeth have a lot of life left. We never changed them unless the dirt side on the bottom of the bucket was very thin. Cmark is absolutely correct. When I spoke of beating on the tooth I meant hitting the bottom side flat trying to tip the tooth back and forth. You should not try to drive the tooth off by hitting the edge trying to push the tooth away from the shank. In my experience heating the tooth does nothing. If you are using a torch just slit one side of the tooth without touching the shank.
Glad to say I took all of what you had to say into consideration. Brought the bucket back into the shop and decided to try a portable hydraulic press. But that did not work either. So, took out the cutting torch and cut the tooth behind the flange until I had a nice flat spot to use an air hammer. Scared that the tooth might explode we covered everything with a leather welding apron. Torch and air hammer did the trick. Once the teeth were off I was amazed at how much rust had been built up between the tooth and the shank. As thick as dime. Anyway, got it all cleaned up and back together. Thank you all for your input. Helpful as always. Bob
I was amazed on just how easy it was to put a new tooth on a new shank...compared to teeth that had been service for years. Hoawrd