so I’ve searched to form an found a little info on replacing the seals in the track tensioner but does anyone know where I could find a illustration on pulling the rod out? I’m debating on doing it my self or having it done by a professional just want to see if it’s something I’ll be comfortable with Thanks
Good day If the cylinder is leaking the easier method is to split the track chain at the master pin, make sure the cylinder is fully retracted before you split the chain - once split remove the idler you will be able to repair the cylinder. Re-assemble is the reverse of the procedure. Be aware that recoils springs can be a danger if the fasting have become weak. Kind regards Uffex
Reach inside the square hole in the track frame and release the track adjuster valve using a 15/16" wrench. Loosen it a couple turns and grease should start coming out, carefully remove the valve after the pressure is gone, to split the track you might have to push the idler in a bit with the bucket. Split the track at the master link, I usually have the master link positioned on the front of the idler. Once split, back the machine up a bit so the track is off the idler, then remove the idler. On the front of the track adjuster there is a gland held by 4 allen head screws, remove the screws. There are also 2 threaded holes in the gland face that you can thread 2 of the allen head screws into to force the gland out. They are going to be full of junk and will probably need the threads cleaned. Once you have the gland off you can pull the piston out. Depending on how bad the gland is worn, you will probably have to clean the bore around the piston first so it will come out, spray some penetrating oil around the piston and I've used an old hacksaw blade to clean around it. I've also welded a large nut on the front of the piston to use for pulling with a come-along. It depends how badly the whole adjuster is stuck in the track frame. Once the piston is out you can replace the ring and wear band ect. You will also need to clean the bore up, if you are careful you can use a flapper wheel on a die grinder to do the rusted part, the first inch or so then use a cylinder hone to finish. Then re-assemble.
Heres a diagram of the same adjuster. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74953/referrer/navigation/pgId/480624