I'm interested to hear tried and tested procedures for exhaust manifold gasket replacement. Anti seize or not? Retorque at operating temperature? Nordlock washers? In the forthcoming time off I'm re sealing the oil cooler group on my service truck (3126 8YL) so will be re gasketing the exhaust manifold to gain access. I did it some time back as some of the hardware had came loose and gaskets failed as a result.
Antisieze and bend over the lock tabs.
I did that last time. I'm not a huge fan of those lock tabs... Kinda mincy in my opinion. Typically I'm a follower to the letter of SIS. I like to believe having built a product they have the best approach of repair. Not always the case tho.
I've only got 10 or so 3116, 3126, and C7s, and I've never had to redo a manifold a second time, following SIS. Biggest issues I see with any exhaust manifold bolt failure are either overtorqued bolts or distorted iron manifolds.
I'll add to HMC's list manifold sections that don't have enough radial clearance between the male & female joints to permit them to "settle in" over the course of a few engine heat cycles until the exhaust soot finally glues the manifold into one assembly. If you have to knock the sections together to assemble them then the joints are too tight IMO. Nothing will break bolts easier than a seized manifold joint.