We use this '05 F 350 to make up casing on drilling rigs. It's got a 60 gpm hyd pump mounted underneath and via extension cord the truck will rev to 1,600 rpm and spin the casing tong. It has 65,000 miles with 4,600 hrs. So it runs all the time when at the rig. The warranty is up and it's never had any head issues that the Power Jokes are prone to have. I'm uncertain if I should fix this truck now (new studs) or wait till it has troubles? What I understand is the studs stretch and it blows the head gasket? Is there another reason why the head gaskets are blowing? Any tips or advice are appreciated.
thats the main reason, is the head bolts stretch. your best bet is to put a set of studs in if it blows. But even with head studs my buddy still blew the gaskets. Sounds like you got lucky and got a good one! so hopefully you won't have any trouble. I blew mine twice before 40k. And then i got smart and got a dmax.
I was talking with another fellow and he mentioned an EGR valve under the intake manifold that leaks water into the cylinders and creates extra compression that stretches the studs. Not sure that makes sense to me. Anybody else hear that? I like the duramax for a personal pick up but they don't have the weight ratings the F-350's do. The F-350 pictured has a 13K GVW while the GMC dually is around 11,400. Also the Ford brakes and front end hold up better for oilfield work.... to bad the engines don't. I'm already on the third turbo.
X2 but everyone I know has been good to go with studs even with a lot more power I call BS on the EGR, but most block them so who knows.
Well I just need someone to look into there crystal ball because I'm torn if I should spend some money on it now or wait and see. The cost would probably be about the same now for new heads studs or waiting for them to stretch, so I just assume wait. Hate for it to break on the way to a job but only takes about 50 HP to run the hydraulics so hopefully it would limp through and run the rest of the casing.
I would do it now/when you can have it down IMO. Or risk it if you don't plan on keeping the truck for a bit.
The 03-04 models had a bad design egr cooler that leaked into the engine. They redesigned that piece in 05 I believe... Do the studs and I would delete the egr system.
I would do the egr delete mod and add H11 head studs now because I personally wouldn't want to be at a site and have a break down. I buy all my motor stuff for my power stroke from these guys. They have awesome customer service and are extremely knowledgeable http://wideopenperformance.net/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=296_288_287_277&products_id=981 http://wideopenperformance.net/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=296_288_287_277&products_id=897
I would do the studs and egr delete before the problem happens. Here are the guys I buy my stuff from they are top notch in service and knowledge of power strokes http://wideopenperformance.net/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=296_288_287_277&products_id=981 http://wideopenperformance.net/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=296_288_287_277&products_id=897
This guy is supposed to be the Powerjoke authority powerstrokehelp.com I still have an 05 powerjoke and the thing mine does is collect carbon under the intake. It eventually plugs and needs removed and cleaned. I am supprised yours hasnt done that yet being it idles so much. The first time mine did that i took it to the dealer because it was still under warranty. They told me what the issue was and it would cost $1100 to remove the intake and clean it by hand or $500 to run some magic snake oil through the engine to clean it out. Needless to say i was pissed that Ford wouldnt honor their warranty but they had me by the ballls being that the truck was 200 miles from the shop. I had them run the snake oil through it and that lasted about a month before it plugged again. Had to remove the intake and scrub it by hand!!! Ford builds a tough work truck but they have totally lost any trust i had in them. They have weaseled their way out of warranties time and time again, so i dont know if i will ever buy one again. Good luck with yours, i hope it holds together. Maybe you got a good 6.0, they are great engines when they are running......
Thanks for the replies and posting the links dzl. Can the studs be exchanged one at a time without pulling the heads? Like double nutting the old stud to back it out then run the new stud in?
Hey no problem just want to make sure you get steered in the right direction for parts. Yes you can install the head studs one at time without pulling the heads. Their is a specific order and torquing sequence you have to do. Talk to the guys at Wide Open they can tell you the specifics about the install.
We had about 70-80 05 and 06 powerstrokes at work. They all started going down with egr cooler problems at 60,000 or so miles, and head gasket failures at 115,000 to 140,000 miles. I was glad to see them go, but we just traded one problem for another with the 6.4 powerstroke. I would delete the cooler and install the studs when I had some down time if I were you. I totally understand the importance of you needing to go when called, since I am right behind the tong crew doing the cement jobs.
I love my 2000 F350 7.3L...bullet proof since new, has 216 000km
You cant beat a 2000 Super duty with a powerstroke that was the best year for the Super duty. I have had a 2000 F250, F350 and F 550 with the 7.3L
A few years back when money was good I went down to Ford to buy another tong truck and this older gentleman was pissed because they would only give him 10K on his trade in, '99 F-350 XLT reg. cab 7.3 4x4 with 78,000 miles. I started chatting with him and he had put new brakes and clutch in it and felt that 10K was unfair. I told him since it has a stick I would be interested buying.... he said give me 10K and I'll bring the cash down and get a better deal on my new truck. Next day I had his money dzlnut, where would you recommend I take the '05 to get the work done on it? Ford dealer or private shop? Seems like Ford would be a bit more expensive but have experienced/trained technicians that do these repairs regularly.
I only trust my trucks with a private shop. Ford charges way to much money and their quality of work is not as good. I have a really good shop in socal that works on all of my trucks if your willing to travel I will PM you the info
x2 Unless you know the dealer has a real diesel mechanic not just a book worm parts changer