I want to replace the Fan Belt on my Case 580 D with a new one. Can anyone tell me a simple way to do this. The Hydraulic Pump will have to move away from the front of the engine, but it is connected to all the Hydraulic lines, and will that mean I will have to drain the Hydraulic fluid to pull the pump away from the engine to install the fan belt, or is there a way to get the Fan belt on that I am missing???? The Service Manual is unclear on how to do this. Has anyone out there have a suggestion Please???? Don Santa Cruz
I am far from an expert on 580Ds, but I believe the pump setup is similar to other Case models. If so, the easiest way is to remove the 4 bolts on the pump coupler and slide it on the spline. This will give you enough room to slide the belt on without having to move the pump and hydraulic lines. Reference this link where I put a picture of my SK showing the coupler slid forward. I hope this helps, or at least gives you some ideas.
Thank you, it makes perfect sense You Bet, its like a light at the end of a tunnel, thank you for all the information, I will put it to work. Don Santa Cruz
Be aware that that coupler will not likely move easily I just changed mine on a SL and it was a bear to get to move but it did move.
It's possible you need to replace the coupling and the tensioner when doing this.
OK, what do I look for with the coupling and tensioner??? there is only 2,200 hours on the engine. Don Santa Cruz
After you get the coupling off you will see if it's worn out. Mine had damaged the pump splines because I waited too long. The tensioner can be replaced without the coupling being off, but make sure it is keeping the new belt tight and running smooth. Yours may not be the same as my 580SE, but it's a real booger to loosen my coupling bolts off, without the radiator removed. Others on here do it all the time with nothing else removed, but they must have better tools than me. I had all the front end off anyway so it was a good time to replace the belt. It's not real easy to get the new belt thru the crack even with the coupling loosened. Some say to cut the old belt vs. trying to get it off thru the crack.
The D has the case engine 207 and is not the same as a E for the fan belt, the coupling has the bolts and has to be slid back to get the belt on. Have had to pull the pump before with a bad, stuck, worn coupler to change out a belt.
I'm also looking to replace the drive belts on my Case 580D. The service manual doesn't have anything for it. This thread is helpful and confirms what I was thinking. I hope the coupler slides on the splines once it's unbolted. If not I will try to slide the pump back without disconnecting the hydraulic lines. Has anyone with a 580D confrimed this will work and not have to drain and remove the hydraulic pump? Thanks
Replaced my belt with one of these & all is well. https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html?_br_psugg_q=link+belt
Thank s Joe--H , Have you had any problems with it stretching or not lasting that long? I was reading someone else that posted here by TheOldMan. using one of those and said he had to keep tightening it constantly because it would stretch out. I also read in the reviews on that harbor freight page that a guy was using it on his unspecified tractor and he would go through one every 6 months.
I haven't had any problems, it's just the WP and alternator. Seems fine. Maybe the ones on Amazon are better quality than HF? But so far it's good & sure beat tearing the pump off. Joe H
I soak the coupler down with p blaster and use an air hammer to vibrate the coupler and never had one that would not loosen and slide easily. I don't try to move the coulper with the air chisel, just vibrate it to loosen the rust
What I've done in the past is put a spare belt around the shaft while I was at it then tie it out of the rd. I wouldn't bother with this unless I was using the machine steady put on lots of hrs. Belts last a long time when all the pulleys are in line. I got the idea from a machine I bought years ago ( 580C ) that blew a belt and when I was fishing around down behind the fan found one tied down there. Loosen the alt stick it on and I was in business .
I rebuilt an engine because of that type of belt. I hate those dam things.
I would prefer to split the coupler again rather than taking a chance that a spare belt tied up in the fan area may come loose with catastrophic results. Think what a replacement fan would cost or even a radiator re-core. Never in my world would there be a link style belt.
I could see that style belt being handy if a machine was stuck in the middle of the road just to get it out of the way, but i agree I wouldnt trust it as a permanent solution
Thanks for the confirm Melben. Despite the comments, I'm probably going to try a link belt. This is mostly because there is a backup belt. If I had a shop and place to work on it I would put real belts on but seeing as my world is in limbo right now and I'm working out in the field it makes sense to try out a link belt for the time being since one of the two belts is in ok shape but one is utterly destroyed. Another thought I had about knocking that coupler loose is if the spline or teeth are bad, it will just make it worse with more movement or open up a whole other issue. If it ain't broke... I kinda like the idea of tying a spare out of the way too, but in an application where it really is difficult to replace them.
"If it ain't broke" - then it's still fixable. That's not a part you want to wait until it fails to replace. Couplers are cheap if bad and then you can put a real belt [or two] on it. It's supposed to get greased once a year if I remember right but usually doesn't get any until something like this happens. This doesn't qualify as really difficult to replace? If it wasn't, you probably wouldn't be considering the link belt. Shops are nice but most work like this gets done outside - even in the winter around here. Good luck.
Thank you that worked for me. Quick and easy.