Saturday I'm going to attempt to repack my dipper and one of the boom cylinders on my 580c. When I first got the machine the dipper cylinder was leaking a little, then one of the boom cylinders started leaking pretty bad, so I figure I might as well attempt this venture. I got my gland tool in today and my seal kits. Does anyone know what size the piston nut is? Any tips for first timer with not a whole lot of knowledge about hydraulics. Thanks guys.
Gland nut is big at least 1 1/2". you will also need a cheater bar about 6' long. We pulled the rod out of the tube then put the rod back on the machine w/ a wood block under it to hold rod while breaking nut loose. You will need a 3/4-1" drive socket set for this project.
You also need something real heavy to hold the end. I had one fellow unpin one of the stabilizers. With the cylinder up out of the way he pinned the rod into the stabilizer pad on the ground. I also seen one fellow bust an expensive vice trying to use that instead. Hydraulic shops have a heavy cradle made for this purpose.
I might add at least a 3/4 drive. I sheared my Snap-on 3/4 to 1/2 reducer in two. My 1" ratchet is about 4' long. Came apart with some effort with it pinned to the stabilizer arm. But wouldn't hold up to re-tightening. A bud wheel socket worked like a charm, 1" drive 1-1/2" socket.
That's for all the input guys. I'm going to try to do this on the machine, hopefully get the rod out and then pin the rod back in the machine and try to break the piston nut loose that way. I'm going to be using a 3/4 power bar, I do have a 5ft cheater bar to go on it. I think I'll go ahead and heat the nut to break the thread locker loose.
Finished the boom cylinder, it went easier than expected. Ahh, but the dipper cylinder, that's another story. I have the rod out of the cylinder but have stripped a 3/4 ratchet and have broken a 20" 3/4 breaking bar and the bolt hasn't budged. They were cheap (harbor freight) tools but worked great on the boom cylinder. After breaking the power bar I heated the bolt with a torch but still no luck. I was using a 4ft cheater bar, I may need a bigger cheater, but doesn't matter if tools won't standup to me. So, I guess off to tractor supply to see what they have in power bar line. Oh did I mention I'm sure I have broken a pinky?
Sorry about your finger. When the nuts are that tight I use an 18 inch pipe wrench and a 6 foot long pipe on it.
Some times the quality of tools doesn't matter. I have broken 3 Snap-on adapters on my adventure. I was attempting bucket roll cylinders today. 2 hours to loosen the pins, got 1 gland loosened and the other is seized in the tube.
Thanks tinkerer. I've been laying here trying to figure my next move. Not sure what to try. I'd just hate to mess my bolt head up with a pipe wrench, I could see that happening to me. Chase, well sounds like your having a day about like mine.
smythcounty, do you have any connections with anyone who does CMV tire work? if the bolt is the same as mine 1-1/2" head see if they will loan you a bud wheel socket or take the ram to them them and they should be able to brake it loose with a 1" impact.
Chase, I'll check and see. I tried again this evening and bent my pipe wrench. It looks like previous owner cut the eye off and repacked it that way and welded it back on. They too must have had trouble. There is a truck stop close by, surely the would have someway to break it loose. There also a heavy equipment construction company nearby too, I may see if they may help me out. There a pretty big outfit, I assume they do a lot of their work themselves. Thanks for the tip. I thought about buying another power handle, but I don't think it'll come off that way.
I happen to be fortunate enough to have tools and equipment from the days I worked on CMV's and those are the tools I have resorted to using. I have a 4' 1" drive Snap-on ratchet and 1" drive sockets. I made the mistake of using 1/2" and 3/4" drive. After breaking 3 adapters I went to the 1" drive.
The eye probably broke off and was fixed. You can't remove the piston from the rod to replace the inner seal that way, and it would be lot of extra work to do any of it that way. These nuts have to be tightened very tight and usually have locktite too. It is real bad if that nut comes loose.
I recently did a cylinder. I skipped all the "manual" work and went straight for the IR "Thunder" Gun. After applying a little heat the 1 7/8" hex head bolt backed out. It didn't come out fast, lol. But it came out with no damage to the bolt/threads and no phalanges were damaged. Good luck! Any cool pics?
Yeah.... On a cylinder rebuild most of the time the hardest part of the job is busting the gland & rod nut loose . We were disscussing this on another thread... HeavyEquipmentForums
I think some of those adapters didn't get heat treated or made out of beer cans. I broke a 1/2" to 3/4" one not that long ago. I didn't have a 3/4" drive anything handy so I just used a 1/2" ratchet with 18ish" handle. Barely had a chance to push on it and the adapter sheared in two pieces. Was just for the 3"ish axle spindle nut on a truck, not all that tight even. Was the first time I had used it too. I understand something breaking with 8ft pipe and 4 guys standing on it, but I doubt I had more than 100ft/lbs on it.
Project complete! Found out a friend of mine rebuilds cylinders. He was able to get it loose and even packed it for me. Best of all he didn't charge me a penny. I'm surely blessed with some great friends. Thanks to everyone for their input and assistance. For those contemplating doing this, it's not as bad as it seems, with the right tools it's a fairly simple project. If you do get a stubborn nut like mine, even if you have to take it to a shop to loosen the nut, you will still save a ton of money. It's a dirty, greasy job, but if I can do it so can you, especially with the help of the great people on this forum.
Congrats man.