Well this is my first time attempting a Roosa Master Db injector pump I washed it down and blew off with compressor took the cover off and took all linkage and springs out and removed metering valve no problem so far I am now ready to pull the head in the morning so far it's been a breeze I hope it continues if anyone has any tips or advice it would be greatly appreciated I will post how the head removal goes Thank you jon
BEFORE you remove the head>> Look inside, to the left of the MV is a hole in the corner.. remove the VENT WIRE screw.. its an allen wrench.. I forget what size.. IF YOU DONT> it will scratch the housing and the oring wont seal.. believe me when I tell you this.!! Before you remove the head.. you will have to turn the pump over and remove the "head locating" screw and remove the plug on the bottom to reveal the advance pin and remove it.. then the 2 hold down screws on the sides of the housing and twist and turn back and forth while pulling the head out.. sometimes its easier to tap on the drive shaft till the head JUST STARTS to move, THEN twist and turn..
Forgot to ask.. is this the type that has the pointed or "conical" nose cone.. and your fuel inlet fitting screws into the end of it.??[DB2] and you remove it w/ a 3/4" open end wrench or the flat end plate and your fitting screws into the TOP of it.?? and it has 4 screws holding it on.. DBGFC/JDB A complete pump part # would be nice.. cuz there are different pumps for that engine.. DBGFC and a DB2--- or a JDB and they come apart differently..
I'm Thank you so much as I did not remove head yet here are some pictures of the injector pump I hope they help Thanks jon
Hi does the vent wire screw does it change any settings or is it just part of the dismantling process Thanks jon
Jon, you have a JDB.. it doesn't have the screw-in type vent screw.. sorry for any confusion.. your still going to have to remove the bottom and side plugs to get to the advance screw tho.. PAY ATTENTION to which side goes where.. if you look at the housing its marked C & CC.. one side is the spring side and the other the pressure side..[flip the pump over to see] IF you don't have the special "BRISTOL" socket tool to get the cam pin out.. you can use a T-45 torx bit.. its tighter than dicks hat band.. so your going to have to give it a GOOD rap with your palm on the rachet.. DONT TRY TO PUSH IT..to loosen it.!!! POP IT with your palm.. like your breaking someones nose..HARD.!!! Your only gonna get 1 shot at it.. cuz it WILL BREAK.. IF it breaks.. your done..
did you get your parts?? kit is 24371.. updated weight retainer is 29111.. and you going to have to transfer the timing mark from your old retainer TO the new retainer.
Oh Thanks so much pumpguy you answered my questions before I got to see itI posted asking about the cam screw I should have checked my replies before I posted I did try and Allen key did not feel rite so I did not force it as I was afraid to strip it Thanks again so much for your time and advice I will post how it goes
Hi can you tell me where it breaks exactly is it the cam screw itself and what if it does break does that mean a new pump Thanks jon
The screw will crack/break on the side of the screw and its a HUGE PITA to remove.. even for me.!!! You got 2 choices my friend.. try it.. or.. don't.. The worst thing that could happen is, it breaks and you have to send it out to a shop.. weather a fuel shop or a machine shop.. I WOUNDNT BEGIN to tell you how to get out a broken cam pin.. not because I'm a di*k.. but just because its WAY to involved.. I'm NOT trying to scare you.. just trying to give you a "heads up".. There's 100's if not 1000's of folks on this site that have done it successfully.. like I said.. go for it.. your 1/2 way there..
Hi got that cam screw out first wack removed the head and got most of the head apart I'm seeing signs of wear and heavy discoloration when I get the last bit of the head apart I will post some pictures of suspect spots if you don't mind maybe give me your opinion on it Thanks a lot for everything I've rebuilt and worked on all kinds of gasoline engines over the the years but this is a lot different I'm finding this dismantling to be really interesting I'm enjoying the he'll out of this challenge Thanks again jon
GOOD JOB.. Were the plungers stuck.?? Was the flex ring black and broken.??
Plungers and flex ring Hi pumpguy yup!! Plungers were stuck bad had to really get on them to get them out one plunger pin has some pretty bad scoring on the end of it and the flex ring is black but not broken it does look a little distorted though I'll post some pictures later on Thank You jon
Ok my jdb pump is all apart parts are all clean and I'm ready to check all tolerances I'm waiting for my kit and flex ring (weight retainer) upgrade the pump was a breeze coming apart I found a lot of very lite rust the plungers were stuck hard the power piston for the advance timing was stuck hard the flex ring was black and distorted but not broken all the parts look good but we'll find out when I Mic the parts with the help from pumpguy I'm so glad I did this myself
pictures of dismantle Pump is disassembled just waiting for the kit and parts to rebuild
WITH THE HELP FROM WHO??? Disassembly is free.. putting it back together costs $$$$.. LOL, LOL..:drinkup I see you took the delivery valve out of the rotor.. that's all fine and dandy.. BUT you HAVE TO and I MEAN HAVE TO, torque it to 90inch pounds.. WITH A NEW STOP.. the cone thing.. it comes in the kit.. Please tell me you didn't remove the leaf spring off the rotor..??? I cant tell from the pics.. 1 more thing, then I'm done.. yeah right.. check the brass tube in the housing.!! Very important..!! if you can feel ANY groves in it.. it must be replaced or you'll get fuel in the oil.. IF its slight, and you CANT catch it with your finger nail, and it might clean-up with 1 pass of scotchbrite on a drill.. you better replace it.. or all will be "for-not".. I applaude you for your effort.. TPG
BTW>> keep the rotor inside the head.. I see you have them in a bag.. separate.. If you think I'm kidding.. hold the rotor with the shiny side in your hand for a count of 20.. and see if they go back together.. it will blow your mind how sensitive it is.. a human hair will seize 1 up.. NOW THATS TIGHT.!! and folks wont spend the money on a 15.00 filter.. NOW THAT blows MY MIND..
OK WAIT, 1 more thing.. I cant stand it>>the mounting oring doesn't come in the kit.. if its hard, you better replace it.. 16371 the brass pilot tube if its gouged is 16320.. just measure the protrusion before pressing it out.. and it MUST BE epoxed back in.. SEE.. theres more than meets the eye.. that's why I get paid THE BIG BUCKS. Lol
And why even as a fearless young mechanic I always took these "Swiss watches" to the pump guy, not to be confused with our resident expert TPG, but still...
JON, its been a few days.. whats happening.?? We're still here.. you can PM me or send me an email.. if you get stuck..